I know some forum members have the Odyessey battery powering their cars. I've had one installed for about a month and it was drained. The battery died. On a battery like this, can it handle all the load a car's accessories will put on it?
All I have is an alarm and power windows. No stereo, no radio, no A/C.
What gives?

 

how much was it driven ? if you have an alarm it should b started and ran at least once a week to charge it back up

 

It's my daily driver, it sits about every other weekend and has taken longer and longer to start. This weekend it died. The battery was charged and held the charge fine. In the car it's at 14.2v and was at 13 when I shut it off. I turned the alarm on and waited a little then re-checked to find it at 12.7v.

How can I pin-point the cause of drain using a volt-meter? I've pulled the fuse for the horn/seat-belts and there is no click with doors closed, it only clicks when the doors are open.

 

Mine seems to dislike sitting, Odyessey sent me a new battery and said its not supposted to happen.

Now it's happening again they said it shouldnt' have happened.

Frankly I'm a bit confused and disapointed with them.

 

There is a constant drain on these cars that a lot of us have not been able to figure out. Most of the time it is due to malfunctioning relays in the seatbelt system in the door, and it wont make itself known at all with lights or warnings of any sort, they just go bad and put a constant pull on the battery.

Turn EVERYTHING OFF and put a meter to the battery and see it there is a drain.

 

I have had this problem as well. If i know that i will have my car sit for an extended piece of time i just end up disconnecting the battery. Is everyone else running the small 680?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had this problem as well. If i know that i will have my car sit for an extended piece of time i just end up disconnecting the battery. Is everyone else running the small 680? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I run a red top Optima..relocated..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a constant drain on these cars that a lot of us have not been able to figure out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 I was dealing with a similar problem like this while I was back in college with my Ef. It would remain parked for 2 or 3 days straight before I would take it for a drive. My battery was constantly being drained and wouldn't start my car. Finally hooked up a ohnmeter to the battery and started pulling all the fuses one by one. Then I unhooked my autometer monster tach and their was the drall. This entire time it was my stupid autometer monster tach killing my battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much was it driven ? if you have an alarm it should b started and ran at least once a week to charge it back up</TD></TR></TABLE>Agreed. Good thing I have 2 cars.

 

PC680 over here, I like the fact that it's a 15lb drycell.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

x2 I was dealing with a similar problem like this while I was back in college with my Ef. It would remain parked for 2 or 3 days straight before I would take it for a drive. My battery was constantly being drained and wouldn't start my car. Finally hooked up a ohnmeter to the battery and started pulling all the fuses one by one. Then I unhooked my autometer monster tach and their was the drall. This entire time it was my stupid autometer monster tach killing my battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So basically the amount of Resistance shown on the meter would drop if you've disconnected the battery life sucking problem item? And how big of a draw am I looking for?

I'm sure factory items such as the analog clock would have a constant draw from the battery. How do I find out what the Factory Spec numbers should be on those things? Links?

 

Correct, your automatically going to have a drawl if their is a problem. I honestly don't remember how much it was but it was very little, but enough to kill my battery in 3 days time. It was so long ago but I believe it was around 0.5-0.7 volts.
The stock analog clock in the car doesn't really drawl much power at all from the battery. I believe once you start adding misc. accessories it can affect your electrical system.

 

I had a PC625 in my old car. Never had any problems with it. Car had/still has (my brother owns it now) a normal stereo, a/c, and alarm.

 

I have the PC680 and my car sits all week and only get driven on the weekend. I had 1300watts of stereo on that battery and never seemed to have any problem as long as the car was running. I removed the system and As of about 3 weeks ago it started acting up. It would take longer to start and then wouldn't start at all.

I ended up getting a battery tender JR and I leave it charging all week. No more dead battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the PC680 and my car sits all week and only get driven on the weekend. I had 1300watts of stereo on that battery and never seemed to have any problem as long as the car was running. I removed the system and As of about 3 weeks ago it started acting up. It would take longer to start and then wouldn't start at all.

I ended up getting a battery tender JR and I leave it charging all week. No more dead battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could be a loose power wire grounding out somewhere after you've removed everything.

I'm going to tear my car apart looking for this problem.

 

I've been using my particular PC680 for about 18 months now with no issues beyond leaving my parking lights on occasionally.

 

Well I checked the voltage on the battery and it was at 12.4 this morning. Started up a little slow and was charging up to 14.37 at the end of my drive. When the car was off it was at 13.13 then dropped to 13.11 after a minute. There is a 0.5 draw that showed up on the resistance test.

What now? unplug fuses and if that draw is gone, I'll know where to start?


Modified by ketchup at 2:14 PM 9/4/2008

 

What should the voltage read on the battery with the car off?

 

I have let my car sit for over 2 months without starting with mp pc680 and it fires right up

 

The K20 doesn't even phase it?

I have a 0.4 draw on the battery with the car running and 0.5 draw with the car sitting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ketchup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have a 0.4 draw on the battery with the car running and 0.5 draw with the car sitting.</TD></TR></TABLE>


start pulling your fuses one by one, and keep checking the voltage/ or test light, once the draw goes away/ light goes out you know that is the source of the draw. so if its coming from the headlights curcuit (for example) you should start checking everything to do with that curcuit.
good luck.

I had a draw coming from my seatbelts, I got honda to replace them for free.

 

I checked the battery voltage and it was 12.67, then resistance test showed 0.4. I started pulling fuses and the 0.4 resistance test never went away, even with all the fuses out. I check the battery voltage and it was 12.88.