wet sanding tailights

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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 02:33 PM
  #1  
ef-hatchcrap's Avatar
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From: DeLand, fl, u.s.a
Default wet sanding tailights

I searched and got 1 result not real helpful. I diy on polishing tailights at one point in time but cant find it now. anyone have it?
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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Default Re: wet sanding tailights (ef-hatchcrap)

try blue magic metal polish. you can get it at wal-mart. i used to use it on that black plastic piece on the truck in between the tail lights on my monte carlo. you might have to do it a couple times but it does make a noticeable difference.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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Default Re: wet sanding tailights (BILLETGRIP)

wet sand with 1000 - 1500 - 2000 and finish up with meguiar's plastx polish. works great on head and taillights!
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:52 PM
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last post is correct. one more thing. when sanding u need to sand in an "X" pattern.its called cross cut. this will ensure even sanding anf will not leave visible lines when polished. i would also wax those lights from now on since ur sanding them ur opening the pores in the plastic theyll oxidize easier now
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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Default Re: (tico)

if you keep them clean, you won't have to sand them again though. I use rubbing compound and polish instead of the plastic polish. faster results.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 07:43 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: (crxcess)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last post is correct. one more thing. when sanding u need to sand in an "X" pattern.its called cross cut. this will ensure even sanding anf will not leave visible lines when polished. i would also wax those lights from now on since ur sanding them ur opening the pores in the plastic theyll oxidize easier now</TD></TR></TABLE>


By x pattern do you mean diagnal one way then go the oppisite?
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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From: Zeigler, IL, USA
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I have found that when you are using 1500+ grit the pattern that you use really does not matter.

I use a wet sponge as a backer and do regular strokes. The angles that you sand at mainly depend on the shapes of the part. With flat ones up/down side/side is more than fine.

When I have done lenses in the past I have used Eastwood's metal buff red and metal buff white with 3M's shine restorer as a finish and sealer with its wax. Alot of the same process to remove scratches from dvd's.

You can also use -00- steel wool a quick moving semi-dry buff, then regular clear coat paint.
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