Ive smoothed out my filler and have it flush with the metal, only problem is that you can see the glob of bondo underneath the primer. I blocked the bondo after applying it, and there are no low spots and its sitting flush with the body panels, only problem is its pretty apparent where I applied the bondo.

Any help on this is greatly appreciated.

 

I think they suggest 5-8 coats of primer on the bondo, how many coats have you sprayed?

 

Shoot it with some 2k primer and it will disappear

 

5-8 coats?! Ouch man, you need to learn how to straighten before you start priming. The sole purpose of priming is to fill minor scratches and level your feathering area. Three coats is standard for 2k primer SURFACER make sure you're not using a primer (different things) anything more than that is too much for ideal flash off causing a **** sandwhich of solvent which results in pinholes...weee.

 

5-8 coats was the norm in the "old laquer primer" days. You could shoot 10 coats no problem, and sand it in about an hour. The new 2K stuff is like was said above^^ 3 coats maybe 4 if you really want to bury something. If you see you lump of bondo through the primer, you didn't sand it level enough, or the dent is begger then you think and you just put bondo in the middle, so your seeing the outer ring of a bigger dent with you bondo pile in the middle. Just takes practice to know when something is ready for primer, feeling it with your hand is your biggest tool.. that sounds gross,,

 

thanks guys,
haha you 2 are funny. I think my next step is to check on what kind of primer im using as im borrowing it from my neighbor. I know we sprayed on 3 coats.


Another thing, I did not finish my bondo jobs with glazing putty, im going to give that a shot as Im seeing small pinholes. I think I also need to change my technique when mixing the bondo as well as Im probably creating a lot of airbubbles with my mixing method. Im going to go purchase some rage gold today as well.

A question for you guys, whats the purpose of a filler thinner like plastik honey?

 

You answered your own question; it's a thinner it does exactly that. It gives you a longer working time and it's great for smearing in pinholes.

 

shoot 3 coats block it down with 180 shoot 3 more coats block that down with 320 seal then paint...thats the way i was thought by a pro.

 

If your a newb at bodywork and not for sure the dent is completely smooth/feathered out then try this...take a piece of regular notebook paper and instead of trying to feel with your hand against the area itself put the piece of paper between the car and your hand and rub back and forth flat palmed. It should help if you haven't done bodywork a lot. Once your satisfied with that throw 2-3coats of 2k high build primer on and you can even do a guide coat if you want. block down with 180 check the work again and if it's done throw a final 2-3 coats on.

 

awesome replies.

For the cumbersome dents, do what everyone said. I also spray the spot
down with water until it looks like glass, then take a fluorescent light (with
black electrical tape lengthwise) and look at the reflection.

If the black tape is wavy, repeat the steps with 2k and blocking. Depending
on the low or high spot, the layer of water helps me locate those spots. If
water sheen is even, your ok. Good Luck!

Then again, I find guide coating works the best for me.

 

im having thhe same issue.

except mine is FLUSH.

i have this fender form my integra. I used fiberglass underneath and bondo on top to repair holes.
I sanded the bondo down flush and rebondod it again cause i still had the lows. i sanded that then gave it a final sand.
i primered the fender andn ow i can see where the bondo work is done, there is no highs or no lows, its perfect, its just the bondo shows threw.

im using some regular can of primer *black* and only have 2 coats on but why am i seeing the bondo threw the primer. everything was done correctly and its black primer to be specific shouldnt it be harder to see the bondo work?

what do i need to do now? i doint anna lay the red paint on this and have it show threw the red too.

would sanding it then reprimering it help?

also i only sand the spots that are showing bondo right ?

 

with your bondo spot showing. it could be because you didnt feather edge the dent well enough... or the brand of stuff you used, stained thru.

 

there was no dent, these are pure fiberglass fenders. i sprayed the entire fender not just one spot.

im using BONDO

this is the fender, if you LOOK really REALLY close u can see where the bondo shows threw in the fixed areas.

 

is it showing rings around the bondo?

hole or dent... u probably didnt feather the fiberglass and bondo properly. while sanding the bondo, u probably undercut, taking off too much material... or still have too much material on. if you're using a rattle can primer, the thickness of it may be too thin, and maybe you need more coats....

redo all the above lol

 

no, no rings, and it isnt too high and it isnt too low, imo its perfectly level, its almost to a point where theres no bondo left. but its showing patches. im using rattle can and i dont think its very thick stuff, so maybe more coats will fix this ?

i used various grits when sanding, i dont know what feathering is? and to me it was fine, it has to be the thiness of the primer, im gonna try and light sand the areas again then do few more coats see if that helps, do u suggest light sanding or wet sanding at this stage?

 

if you're still spraying high build primer... stick to sanding it with 220 or 320 grit... dont use wetsand/final sanding (400-600grit) untill you're ready to seal, base, clear it. and that doesnt come untill after your fender/panel is completely straight or problem free

 

how much hardner did you use in your filler...also BONDO brand filler SUCKS used it a few times it kept coming through my primer when i was spot primeing so i took it all off threw the can of bondo out and bout evercoat and never had that problem again

 

just a question, what is a SEALER? and its purpose?

my piece is straight and flush and smooth, everythings fine, i just sanded the areas again that were showing, but its raining now so i cannot go outside to paint, i will be doing this tomorrow though. i will be priming the areas ive sanded again and i will have results here. if everything looks fina im a go ahead with 4-5 coats of primers, then ur saying i need to SEAL it? what is the sealing process?

also once i seal it i will do 3 coats of the RED paint i have for this, then i was thinking 5-6 coats of clearcoat.

what kinda sealer should i use and what kind of clear coat? (brands)?

 

There isn't really a specific product sold as 'sealer', but it generally refers to anything that used to get a uniform surface before applying final paint. Some people use thinned primer/surfacer for this, some use a neutral paint color like gray, and various other things.

If you prime, you won't need sealer.

 

hmmm ive never heard of this,seems like a neat tip