I have been defeated by my fuel filter...Anyone in San Francisco have an impact wrench?
For the life of me, I cannot get this 17mm bolt off!!!
To make matters worse, I also managed to shear off the original pressure release bolt that goes on top. I already extracted it and replaced it, but I still can't remove the big bolt.
I tried a long ratchet (almost as long as a breaker bar), WD40 overnight (twice), and finally tapping a wrench with a sledge hammer.
Apparently this is a common issue and I REALLY need to replace my fuel filter on my DA.
Anyone in the bay area have an impact wrench to take this thing off? I will drive to your house and buy you a $5 Dollar Footlong
Thanks in advance.
Here is the bolt I am talking about:
To make matters worse, I also managed to shear off the original pressure release bolt that goes on top. I already extracted it and replaced it, but I still can't remove the big bolt.
I tried a long ratchet (almost as long as a breaker bar), WD40 overnight (twice), and finally tapping a wrench with a sledge hammer.
Apparently this is a common issue and I REALLY need to replace my fuel filter on my DA.
Anyone in the bay area have an impact wrench to take this thing off? I will drive to your house and buy you a $5 Dollar Footlong
Thanks in advance.Here is the bolt I am talking about:
use a piece of pipe and slide it over the end if a closed wrench. this will give you enough leverage to break that bitch loose.
Yeah, just keep getting longer breaker bars until you break it loose
^ if that doesnt work i am sure u can go to the closest auto shop and they will prob do it for free. I remember i tried whatever i could to get a downpipe bolt loose on my 2g eclipse when replacing the turbo and i couldn't do it. Took it to midas a mile away and they took it off for free. i tipped the guy $5 though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, just keep getting longer breaker bars until you break it loose
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's right, a copper/steel pipe over a life time warranty wrench is more powerful than an impact if used right. If you need better access angle, remove the rubber intake pipe to give you more space.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's right, a copper/steel pipe over a life time warranty wrench is more powerful than an impact if used right. If you need better access angle, remove the rubber intake pipe to give you more space.
Are you anywhere near the city college on Evans. I don't have an impact but I would like a shot at it. Just feel like helping out a fellow da owner.
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You have to use 2 wrenches. You have to use a 22mm open end wrench and slide it on to the black flat hex area of the filter. The 22 mm wrench is used to hold the filter from twisting. Then you use a 17mm wrench on the bolt that you want to remove. You turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise.
1. One hand on the 22mm open end wrench and the other hand on the 17mm wrench
2. Turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise while holding the 22mm open end wrench firmly.
1. One hand on the 22mm open end wrench and the other hand on the 17mm wrench
2. Turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise while holding the 22mm open end wrench firmly.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaBear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's right, a copper/steel pipe over a life time warranty wrench is more powerful than an impact if used right. If you need better access angle, remove the rubber intake pipe to give you more space.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A cheater bar more powerful than my 650 ft-lb Ingersoll-Rand impact. lol I think not, unless the bar is like 6 feet long. And then you GREATLY increase the risk of shearing the bolt head off. High sustained torque (from a cheater or breaker bar) is much more dangerous to bolt heads than lightning-quick high torque pulses (from a pneumatic impact wrench). That's why rear LCA bolt heads break so often when breaker bars are used. I have never yet heard of an impact wrench that sheared the bolt head off of an LCA bolt.
That's right, a copper/steel pipe over a life time warranty wrench is more powerful than an impact if used right. If you need better access angle, remove the rubber intake pipe to give you more space.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A cheater bar more powerful than my 650 ft-lb Ingersoll-Rand impact. lol I think not, unless the bar is like 6 feet long. And then you GREATLY increase the risk of shearing the bolt head off. High sustained torque (from a cheater or breaker bar) is much more dangerous to bolt heads than lightning-quick high torque pulses (from a pneumatic impact wrench). That's why rear LCA bolt heads break so often when breaker bars are used. I have never yet heard of an impact wrench that sheared the bolt head off of an LCA bolt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nb0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to use 2 wrenches. You have to use a 22mm open end wrench and slide it on to the black flat hex area of the filter. The 22 mm wrench is used to hold the filter from twisting. Then you use a 17mm wrench on the bolt that you want to remove. You turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise.
1. One hand on the 22mm open end wrench and the other hand on the 17mm wrench
2. Turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise while holding the 22mm open end wrench firmly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think this way works the best actually
1. One hand on the 22mm open end wrench and the other hand on the 17mm wrench
2. Turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise while holding the 22mm open end wrench firmly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think this way works the best actually
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
High sustained torque (from a cheater or breaker bar) is much more dangerous to bolt heads than lightning-quick high torque pulses (from a pneumatic impact wrench). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info! I never thought of it like that. Sustained pressure on the bolt will heat it up and snap it right off, while pulses of torque are more likely jar the bolt loose.
High sustained torque (from a cheater or breaker bar) is much more dangerous to bolt heads than lightning-quick high torque pulses (from a pneumatic impact wrench). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info! I never thought of it like that. Sustained pressure on the bolt will heat it up and snap it right off, while pulses of torque are more likely jar the bolt loose.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Desired_Speeds »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you can just get a new fuel line and fuel filter. and just remove the fuel filter and line together
thats what i had to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my last resort after posting this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to use 2 wrenches. You have to use a 22mm open end wrench and slide it on to the black flat hex area of the filter. The 22 mm wrench is used to hold the filter from twisting. Then you use a 17mm wrench on the bolt that you want to remove. You turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise.
1. One hand on the 22mm open end wrench and the other hand on the 17mm wrench
2. Turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise while holding the 22mm open end wrench firmly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome. I never even noticed the black hex. That is exactly my problem because the stupid filter keeps rotating. I guess I have to go buy a 22mm wrench
thats what i had to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my last resort after posting this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to use 2 wrenches. You have to use a 22mm open end wrench and slide it on to the black flat hex area of the filter. The 22 mm wrench is used to hold the filter from twisting. Then you use a 17mm wrench on the bolt that you want to remove. You turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise.
1. One hand on the 22mm open end wrench and the other hand on the 17mm wrench
2. Turn the 17mm wrench counter clockwise while holding the 22mm open end wrench firmly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome. I never even noticed the black hex. That is exactly my problem because the stupid filter keeps rotating. I guess I have to go buy a 22mm wrench
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewrai6th »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good info! I never thought of it like that. Sustained pressure on the bolt will heat it up and snap it right off, while pulses of torque are more likely jar the bolt loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
youll be surprised what a quick hit with a hammer will do to a bolt.
Good info! I never thought of it like that. Sustained pressure on the bolt will heat it up and snap it right off, while pulses of torque are more likely jar the bolt loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
youll be surprised what a quick hit with a hammer will do to a bolt.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
I would get a new filter and grab one of these. And it looks better
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2139963
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2139963
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