daily driver project -b20 build
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
well ive got about 99% of the parts ordered, figured id share my project, ideas and goals.
b20 @ 84.5mm
rs machines 84.5 itr pistons. should put me right at 11.5:1 static compression
stock rods with arp 8mm bolts
stock crank/itr oil pump/ls waterpump/oem bearings
ls head
blox intake manifold, stock throttle body
brian crower st 2 cams with dual valvesprings and the steel 'street" retainers
old *** ugly iceman cold air
jdm itr header w/2.5" exhaust
stock ls trans 6 puck sprung clutch with oem pressure plate.
currently looking for a neptune rtp to tune it.
my goals were to have a responsive around town daily driver with a powerband to best match the ls trans (hence the nonvtec setup) and still be able to manage 30 something mpg. i wanted daily driver reliablility with it, as i need the car to get to and from work 30 miles each way at 6am in the 4 degree above zero northeast winter weather
i guess my relative power goals are 170/140, but as long as its nice to drive and in that neighborhood ill be happy. im going to do the entire motor build and tuning myself, ill try and keep pics going of the steps and progress.
b20 @ 84.5mm
rs machines 84.5 itr pistons. should put me right at 11.5:1 static compression
stock rods with arp 8mm bolts
stock crank/itr oil pump/ls waterpump/oem bearings
ls head
blox intake manifold, stock throttle body
brian crower st 2 cams with dual valvesprings and the steel 'street" retainers
old *** ugly iceman cold air
jdm itr header w/2.5" exhaust
stock ls trans 6 puck sprung clutch with oem pressure plate.
currently looking for a neptune rtp to tune it.
my goals were to have a responsive around town daily driver with a powerband to best match the ls trans (hence the nonvtec setup) and still be able to manage 30 something mpg. i wanted daily driver reliablility with it, as i need the car to get to and from work 30 miles each way at 6am in the 4 degree above zero northeast winter weather
i guess my relative power goals are 170/140, but as long as its nice to drive and in that neighborhood ill be happy. im going to do the entire motor build and tuning myself, ill try and keep pics going of the steps and progress.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well ive got about 99% of the parts ordered, figured id share my project, ideas and goals.
b20 @ 84.5mm
rs machines 84.5 itr pistons. should put me right at 11.5:1 static compression
stock rods with arp 8mm bolts
stock crank/itr oil pump/ls waterpump/oem bearings
ls head
blox intake manifold, stock throttle body
brian crower st 2 cams with dual valvesprings and the steel 'street" retainers
old *** ugly iceman cold air
jdm itr header w/2.5" exhaust
stock ls trans 6 puck sprung clutch with oem pressure plate.
currently looking for a neptune rtp to tune it.
my goals were to have a responsive around town daily driver with a powerband to best match the ls trans (hence the nonvtec setup) and still be able to manage 30 something mpg. i wanted daily driver reliablility with it, as i need the car to get to and from work 30 miles each way at 6am in the 4 degree above zero northeast winter weather
i guess my relative power goals are 170/140, but as long as its nice to drive and in that neighborhood ill be happy. im going to do the entire motor build and tuning myself, ill try and keep pics going of the steps and progress. </TD></TR></TABLE>
nice!! I always wanted to do a non-vtec B motor!! should be fun to drive man! GL
b20 @ 84.5mm
rs machines 84.5 itr pistons. should put me right at 11.5:1 static compression
stock rods with arp 8mm bolts
stock crank/itr oil pump/ls waterpump/oem bearings
ls head
blox intake manifold, stock throttle body
brian crower st 2 cams with dual valvesprings and the steel 'street" retainers
old *** ugly iceman cold air
jdm itr header w/2.5" exhaust
stock ls trans 6 puck sprung clutch with oem pressure plate.
currently looking for a neptune rtp to tune it.
my goals were to have a responsive around town daily driver with a powerband to best match the ls trans (hence the nonvtec setup) and still be able to manage 30 something mpg. i wanted daily driver reliablility with it, as i need the car to get to and from work 30 miles each way at 6am in the 4 degree above zero northeast winter weather
i guess my relative power goals are 170/140, but as long as its nice to drive and in that neighborhood ill be happy. im going to do the entire motor build and tuning myself, ill try and keep pics going of the steps and progress. </TD></TR></TABLE>
nice!! I always wanted to do a non-vtec B motor!! should be fun to drive man! GL
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nice!! I always wanted to do a non-vtec B motor!! should be fun to drive man! GL</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
just looking for something that will be fun around town and to daily drive
nice!! I always wanted to do a non-vtec B motor!! should be fun to drive man! GL</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
just looking for something that will be fun around town and to daily drive
im using a gsr tranny on my b20... i love it. i haven't been on the freeway yet so im not sure how the revs will be, but just around town its great.
Thread Starter
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
ive gotta admit im relatively impressed so far with the ls cable tranny. its not anywhere neear as bad as i thought it would be. must be the 4.40fd. its actually perfect for what im looking for, ,and the powerband of this b20 should fit it nicely
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why would you use an ITR oil pump with a non-vtec motor setup?? you don't really need that much oil pressure at all with a non-vtec motor right??
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you use an ITR oil pump with a non-vtec motor setup?? you don't really need that much oil pressure at all with a non-vtec motor right??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
got a spare one in the garage with about 6k miles
this build will also give me a chance to use a whole bunch of spare parts i have like extra headgaskets and valveseals and whatnot.
</TD></TR></TABLE>got a spare one in the garage with about 6k miles
this build will also give me a chance to use a whole bunch of spare parts i have like extra headgaskets and valveseals and whatnot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you use an ITR oil pump with a non-vtec motor setup?? you don't really need that much oil pressure at all with a non-vtec motor right??
</TD></TR></TABLE> Maybe because they are the same? Just say'n, last i looked the part numbers were the same, but I will defer to your knowledge.
</TD></TR></TABLE> Maybe because they are the same? Just say'n, last i looked the part numbers were the same, but I will defer to your knowledge.
Didn't specify when that non-vtec pump was made...
OBD1 is a different part# but if I'm not mistaken, it's just the spring bolt washer that's different... i.e. removed
OBD1 is a different part# but if I'm not mistaken, it's just the spring bolt washer that's different... i.e. removed
I run a CTR trans w/ LS 5th and 4.78 FD and manage to get >30mpg hwy. In the city my mpg mainly depends on traffic and how I drive. I typically avg ~30mpg mixed, often hitting vtec in 1st, 2nd, but thankfully I'm seldom in bad traffic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patriot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't specify when that non-vtec pump was made...
OBD1 is a different part# but if I'm not mistaken, it's just the spring bolt washer that's different... i.e. removed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, just make sure your lower timing belt cover is for the right oil pump.
OBD1 is a different part# but if I'm not mistaken, it's just the spring bolt washer that's different... i.e. removed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, just make sure your lower timing belt cover is for the right oil pump.
I'm driving with a JDM LS1. 70MPH is ~4k RPMs. The B16 got a best of 34MPG all highway. I'm still working on my first tank of gas with the B20 but it doesn't look like it's drinking too much fuel.
Remember higher gearing is going to increase torque and even though your revs are high, manifold vacuum will be higher so you should need less throttle.
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
quite honestly im not looking to make the car fast, the whole motor build has run me 1000 bucks, and im just looking foward to having good mpg and reliability
Not criticizing, just wondering, since I notice that most non-vtec builds include aftermarket cams/valvetrain, why not use a cheap, stock vtec head? Just to differ? It seems to me that it'd cost about the same, make more power, get = or > mpg, idle well, etc.. Hell, if on a tight budget I'd even use the stock b20 pistons and mill the head to bump CR.
ls trans is surely cheaper than the others. I just found closer gearing + LSD to be worth the extra expense.
To each his own.
ls trans is surely cheaper than the others. I just found closer gearing + LSD to be worth the extra expense.
To each his own.
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
i know what you are saying about the transmissions, i have a close geared trans with aftermarket lsd in my other car, its very nice for performance.
i have a spare vtec head in my basement next to this b20 motor, i just wanted something that will be more of 5000-7000 rpm powerband than having to go above 7k to really make power. i also noticed that most b20 nonvtecs are making like 10-20 more ftlbs from 3000-5000 than their vtec counterparts, which is where im going to be doing most of my driving this being my daily driver.
the motor was a b20b and those pistons are 8.8, so maybe id be looking at low 9's for compression. i wanted a little more. if it was a b20z i probably would have the head milled up to bring it close to 10:1 and would have left that. either way though, im using 93 octane (no knock sensor) so i might as well have new pistons and more compression.
i just wish my parts would ship, its been 2 weeks and no progress on my order.
i have a spare vtec head in my basement next to this b20 motor, i just wanted something that will be more of 5000-7000 rpm powerband than having to go above 7k to really make power. i also noticed that most b20 nonvtecs are making like 10-20 more ftlbs from 3000-5000 than their vtec counterparts, which is where im going to be doing most of my driving this being my daily driver.
the motor was a b20b and those pistons are 8.8, so maybe id be looking at low 9's for compression. i wanted a little more. if it was a b20z i probably would have the head milled up to bring it close to 10:1 and would have left that. either way though, im using 93 octane (no knock sensor) so i might as well have new pistons and more compression.
i just wish my parts would ship, its been 2 weeks and no progress on my order.
Why can't you have a fat midrange with a VTEC head? Give yourself a healthy bump in compression and you'll have good torque everywhere.
aren't the chambers in the vtec heads substantially smaller than those of their non-vtec counterparts? That in addition to milling would seem to net higher than 9:1 CR, but I may be wrong. I'd think that as long as you didn't go too wild with cams you'd not have piston to valve issues due to the smaller valve reliefs in the b20 pistons.
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
shaving heads to gain compression isnt my thing especially when i can buy new pistons to do the same
i mean god forbid someone doesnt do a vtec build
i mean god forbid someone doesnt do a vtec build


