in my ms3, i have a type r 12 in a sealed cube, built to the spec of the alpine recommendations. i am using the stock bose hu, a re-q, and the rear two channels of a pdx 4.150. some have suggested i try a ported box to expoit the sub, esp under what most might consider light power.

i am very adept at building things, and have been building boxes since i was 15 (i am 29). the problem is i don't have my table saw anymore and i refuse to build one NOT using a table.

so, i want to buy one. what is the best way/ outlet to go about this? i am talking a legit audiofile quality TUNED box, specifically for my sub.

thanks!

 

really, i would not build the new enclosure. Your under powering the subs. Throw them some power and you will be very happy and the sub will like it and play. taking it that they are 12's and you giving a 500 watt rms sub only a 150 watts rms. There is going to be a big change in output.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really, i would not build the new enclosure. Your under powering the subs. Throw them some power and you will be very happy and the sub will like it and play. taking it that they are 12's and you giving a 500 watt rms sub only a 150 watts rms. There is going to be a big change in output.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's one DVC 12. i believe it's two 2ohm coils wires in series and i'm using the rear two channels bridged. the other option i guess would be to add a pdx 1.1000 and keep the sealed box. i think i could keep the whole concealed install thing and find a spot under the tool tray for the 1.1000 as i did for the 4.150. unfortunately that amp is not cheap and honestly the shape of the sealed box could be improved for my fitment. it's small, but still...a taller flatter hatchback type box would be better IMO, so i'd need a new box anyway. and if i get a new box, i might as well get a properly build ported unit. i was always under the impression that sealed is tighter and lower than ported, but evidently port tuning has become pretty refined from what i used to do, so i don't know.

i just figured that i could maximize what i have and when i do upgrade to a dedicated sub amp i'd be ahead of the game with a quality box, but you are right i probably need power.

 

speaker spec's. And yes it needs more power
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...tab=D

Go with this amp.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...-M850

Run the sub at a 4 ohm load. That will give you the 500watt rms need for the sub to perform its best.

Or if you want to go ported try this
The vented enclosure size alpine say is 0.75 cu/ft to 2.0 cu/ft. The best size recommended by Alpine is 1.7 cu/ft, A slot port with the following size should be used with the 1.7 cu/ft enclosure: W = 12", H = 1.25", L = 21". If you cannot use a slot port in your enclosure, you will need a port tube with the following dimensions: Diameter = 3", L = 9.9".

I would use two subs in your car, I am a bass head

 

thanks man. hey, you ever play with winisd? i have a little, but i can't find some of the hardcore parameters for the woofer, and/or understand what some of the parameters are on the custom parameter section.

but yeah, i can't spare the room for two subs. it kills me that i am taking up the little space i am with my one. this is one reason i went with the pdx series amp because i needed to have it out of the way. i really think that if i feed this one 12 a crap load of power in the right ported box i will have more than i can handle

 

Build it to alpine spec and send the right power, Most of the time when building enclosure I allways use the factory specs. Programs are cool. But sometimes factory specs perform better.