1994

Mods : B20b , skunk 2 shiftknob, 2.25 inch piping, OPTION GROUP muffler (option JDM), Apex radiator cap, NKG plug wires (im not sure if its a mod cuz I know honda uses NGK as OEM) but anyways just putting it out there..

stock for the most part just sold my beasty civic a few days ago and picked this one up..


I had a old blue civic ej2 with a b16. that thing was a rapist sold now

anyways this is my intro to honda tech!





These are pics from the day after i picked it up (still had some stock USA made muffler





























Modified by dc4-b20 at 12:19 PM 8/31/2008

 

looks clean man needs a lip bad like mine.

 

thats clean bro!!!

you have exactly what i was planning, slip streams and a CB hood haha


you gonna throw in some side markers?

 

Nice teg.. getting me one too pretty soon

 

nah man just need a type r lip and some fogs

 

clean some torque for a change.

 

yeah its pRetty torquey for stock but I have a granny that grinds into second and third

 

heres a update

Drilled/Slotted rotors
Volk "rays" lugnuts
Honda badges Front/Rear
Zeal Function B6 coilovers <--- SEX!

 

This belongs in appearance or in the official integra picture thread stickied at the top of the forum..

nice teg btw.

 

Also just a heads up, if thats a factory wheel which it looks like it is you shouldnt be using an aftermarket lug nut. They dont seat the same as an oem lug nut which are flat compared to the aftermarket tuner lugs which are conical.

Nice project though, stock B20's are great. Fiances is getting 30+ mpg and still pretty peppy around town

 

Pretty clean, when my gsr blows or gets too weak i will probably go b20v, usable powerband ftw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also just a heads up, if thats a factory wheel which it looks like it is you shouldnt be using an aftermarket lug nut. They dont seat the same as an oem lug nut which are flat compared to the aftermarket tuner lugs which are conical.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM lug nuts have an acorn (spherical) seating surface, while aftermarket lug nuts and wheels have a conical seat.

But yeah, you need to get stock lugs nuts back on there ASAP, or risk a wheel falling off while driving.

*edit happened right here to this guy, running Gorilla taper-seat locking lugs on stock wheels (with acorn seats).

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2389929


Modified by PatrickGSR94 at 6:03 PM 9/21/2008

 

As long as you get them to sit as flush as possible and torque them down correctly you will be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4-b20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as you get them to sit as flush as possible and torque them down correctly you will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No..

See the link that's posted above your post.

 

Get that thing Professionally Detailed, INterior looks HIDEOUS right now, haha trust me, its the best thing money can buy... my stock obd1 gsr runs a 14.9, with 140K miles..... b18c1 FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4-b20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1994




</TD></TR></TABLE>


clean

 

Getting rid of the ABS soon. Is there any other way to like seal the ABS?

by sealing it I mean when I remove the ABS wont brake fluid come shooting out if the lines are unsealed somehow? or whats the procedure for that? never removed ABS


(reason why im removing, does NOT work. ABS light is on)


Modified by dc4-b20 at 6:34 PM 9/21/2008

 

have you checked the ABS fuses? Mine didn't work for the longest time, turned out to be one of the fuses blown.

But to remove it, you have to get brake lines from a non-ABS RS Integra.

As for the lug studs, check out what Tunern00b posted in that thread I linked above.

 

Something tells me he isnt going to listen, but oh well, Red lugs are prettier anyways

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the lug studs, check out what Tunern00b posted in that thread I linked above.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll make it easy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I (tried) using a set of stock acorn lugs on taper seat wheels once. Torqued down to 75 ft/lbs, then drove around the block and rechecked. Half of them could be removed by hand, they had loosened up that much...

So yeah, I got to autocross on my street tires that day, since I couldn't bolt up the wheels with race tires safely.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something tells me he isnt going to listen, but oh well, Red lugs are prettier anyways </TD></TR></TABLE>

Until they fade pink (which those do).

Or even worse, until the threads sheer off the lugs (happened to my Rays lugs in 6 months of use).

McGard lugs for me, and only with the correct seat. I now have 12 acorn lugs and 15 acorn seat wheel bolts sitting on a shelf thanks to both me and the gf having aftermarket taper seat wheels. We each have to carry a set (4 lugs for me, 5 bolts for her) of the OEM hardware in the car for the spares which still have acorn seats.)


Modified by TunerN00b at 4:26 PM 9/22/2008