Just curious if anyone has had to replace the rear subframe in any DC2/civic. It's a straight forward project.... however the unibody or the new subframe does not have any alignment holes/pins/etc, I'm just deciding whether or not to take the time to jig up the LCA mounting points prior to drilling out the existing spot welds. currently i'm thinking it would be a waste of my time.... probably like this post. Comments?







420.

D

 

is the rear subframe marked with points to spot weld? the front rad support I did seemed to be and made for a very useful guide..

 

negative. Flange is flat with clearance holes for the 2 tank mounting strap bolts, and 1 mounting bolt for the filler neck.

 

hmm.. probably a waste of time as there is basically only one way to make it fit and you'll probably have some reference points from residual seam sealer, etc.. and an alignment can probably dial out most of any difference..

just depends on how much of a perfectionist you are I guess..

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Comments?

420.

D
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What can I say... JB Weld the SOB

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What can I say... JB Weld the SOB </TD></TR></TABLE>

Note to self... never buy anything from Swedasso

 

thats a lot of bolts. i have a bucket O' bolts somewhere but its nothing like that pile of mess.

anyway sounds like a waste of time to me even though I have no idea why you are doing it in the first place. assuming the one you have is damaged or something.

fo' twentyz nugga.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...though I have no idea why you are doing it in the first place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Our cars are ageing, and many of them have a hell of a lot of track miles on R-comps.

It's going to happen, sooner or later.

Not the last Summit Point event, but the one before that, one guy came away with a bent control arm, and another came away with a visible tear in his subframe.

 

Your straight forward projects would make the average person's head esplode, LOL!

D

 

D-

Ring me, got some ideas.

P.S. You can always borrow my RHD jig and cut the POS in half and attack from the other end of the kar.....




Modified by B18CXr at 9:43 AM 8/29/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ring me, got some ideas. :</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the time to do it, you might want to think about talking here so that everybody benefits from the lessons.

 

I think you pretty much have to mark it before hand or line it up using an alignment after. If it's anything like the front subframe, the hole is larger than the diameter of the bolt so it can be 'off' of how it was initially.

 

I would attach a logging chain to the rear of the car, attach other end to the largest truck i could find. Hit throttle in said truck.

Repeat.

Then go back to working on the mini.


Nick, who remembers D's wanna be mullet.

 

Trace the outline of the old one before you remove it?

 

Trace the outline of the old one before you remove it?

I wouldn't, it was certainly stamped on a different machine using a different die in a different decade.

Jig to the attachment points is the best/quick move.

 

whats the part number on that bad boy? and how much was it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a lot of bolts. i have a bucket O' bolts somewhere but its nothing like that pile of mess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my hardware inventory isn't what it used to be, always could use moar.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyway sounds like a waste of time to me even though I have no idea why you are doing it in the first place. assuming the one you have is damaged or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>

caR was rear ended circa '99/'00, rear end damage included the hatch and rear tailight pannel. bumper beam and rear tub were undamaged. Front end also crunched vehicle in front of it, minor damage to the core support. caR was total loss by insurance and parted out back in the day. Unfortunatly, ye who parted out the car, decided to chop off the driver side LCA mounting ears... presumably due to a stuck LCA mounting bolt. I picked up the shell and temp welded a mounting location to make it a roller... had the shell tugged, and now just needs the subframe replaced.



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S. You can always borrow my RHD jig and cut the POS in half and attack from the other end of the kar..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Best idea yet.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Tran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would attach a logging chain to the rear of the car, attach other end to the largest truck i could find. Hit throttle in said truck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The truck unfortunatly only has good compression in 2 cylinders. Guess i'll need 4 low.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Tran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nick, who remembers D's wanna be mullet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Man, i recall JT hurling off a balcony in boca..... hot ****.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't, it was certainly stamped on a different machine using a different die in a different decade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

One could argue that since the ITR subframe is different than DC4/DB8/etc... and the total number of ITR rear subframes is quite small in comparison to total volume of all others manufactured, only one die set would have been required. But, tis only a guess.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jig to the attachment points is the best/quick move.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Normally i would agree, but i only have the passenger side that is worth a ****. I was thinking string lining the LCA points and verifiying it's centered off datum points on the chassis would be good enough. we'll chat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fo' twentyz nugga.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's about that time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsidriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the part number on that bad boy? and how much was it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

65750-ST7-R00ZZ ~$160

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Trace the outline of the old one before you remove it?

I wouldn't, it was certainly stamped on a different machine using a different die in a different decade.

Jig to the attachment points is the best/quick move.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd pro'lly get you ballpark close, i was gonna say unless the car had been hit which looks to be the case.
O.P., Helms has measurement points on the body I think. Or take it over to Yacks and beat on his door.

 

D. If you could do a timing belt change, full tune up on my car, in a 1 car garage during a hurricane with 1 spot light while marc, and half the other drunk ITR retards were distracting you, this should be easy.

&lt;----Mike who still remembers the pic of D towing the mini with the ITR while giving the SALUTE.

I think we need to see that pic once more

 

f'n rust ... must be the northernlights.

Good luck and don't listen to this sumbiatch<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Tran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would attach a logging chain to the rear of the car, attach other end to the largest truck i could find. Hit throttle in said truck.

Repeat.

Then go back to working on the mini.


Nick, who remembers D's wanna be mullet.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd pro'lly get you ballpark close, i was gonna say unless the car had been hit which looks to be the case. O.P., Helms has measurement points on the body I think. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damage from the impact was only cosmetic. Zero structural damage.

Integra body Dimensions:
http://www.sandmracing.com/ima...e.pdf

The obvious option here would be to only remove the ears that mount the driver side LCA, use the rear lower tie bar to assist in locating and potentially save some effort. Since that piece isn't available separate from the entire subframe, i feel like i may as well just replace the entire piece.

:burn:...................

 

well either way that you would u sell me the lower tie bar mounts . just cut them off at the welds?

 

WAT?