Alright, before people start spamming about how i should just fix the coolent temp switch, let me explain.

my car is a wiring disaster. no seriously. whoever previously owned it was a super-genious, in a bad way. I'll post pics to back that up later, but back to the problem.

I know that fuse in the dash block 15 is for the radiator fan. I can't seem to figure out what wire in C952 is the output for the radiator fan coolent temp switch (if that is even the right connector for the coolant fan) and i don't want to solder **** over my head under my car to the switched power into the temp switch, because the super-genious mentioned above removed most of the wiring for the radiator fan anyway, so i figure the next best thing is to use one of the switched auxiliary ports that is wide open on the dash fuse block.

so, a little bit of testing shows that c956 and c953 are hot when i would like them to be and i happen to have the female connectors on hand that work with those ports, but i can't seem to find any info on the current these lines are fuesed for in the OEM manual i have. are they just unfused? additionally, i will fry my multimeter with anything over 10 amps, so just jacking around and trying to test aperage doesnt cut it. can anyone point me in the direction either in the manual that has the pinout for the connector C952 or to the dash fuse box connector containing the radiator fan wire, or the fused or unfused amperage of the ports C956 or C953?

cliffs: can anyone point me in the direction either in the manual that has the pinout for the connector C952 or to the dash fuse box connector containing the radiator fan wire, or the fused or unfused amperage of the ports C956 or C953?

ps: i did search.. here is what i found, which backs up my testing so far. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=429494

 

i forgot to mention that stuffing a chunk of the wire into the hot side of the radiator fan fuse location is NOT AN OPTION.. i am trying to make things reliable, not retarded.

 

splice into one of the wires near the fan connection and ground it

when you turn your key the fan will turn on. I have had my fan on like this on all three of my ef's and no problems

also in the other thread you were talking about using one of the aux ports

and yes I have done it that way also with no problems other than forgeting to turn the switch on


Modified by Hamstr323 at 1:30 AM 8/28/2008

 

CAll it getto but I just ran a wire to the rear defroster wire at the fuse box. Then grounded it in the engine bay. The fan comes on when the key is in the number 2 postion. I had to do it that way because of previus owner issues.

I have had it like that for 6 years and havent had a problem yet.

 

thanks for all the comments.

I have done some thinking and i think my first priority is to tap into the existing fan switch wiring after all. I need to test to see if there is power going to that wire first, and if there is, i will use it. if not, then its back to the drawing board.

 

the empty ports appear to be fused - power seems to come from fuse 12 and fuse 18 -unfortunately, the numbers aren't very clear on my diagram, so i can't tell which is which








Modified by jlicrx at 11:16 AM 8/28/2008

 

nice... so the AC fan hot wire runs out connector C407 to the bay. Thats exactly what i was hoping for.

C953 appears to be fused to block location 18 and is a 10A fuse, and it looks like C956 is fused to fuse block location 12, and is a 15A fuse. Interesting that both those ports have other things running from them, so tying the radiator fan into them will probably just pop fuses all the time.

what books are those diagrams from? my 91 civic OEM manual has no diagrams like that, that i am aware of, and page 11-4 in the middle of the steering and suspension section..