Hello, just wanted to introduce myself and ask a question about the upper ball joint removal.

First of all I just purchased a 88' CRX HF that needed a fair amount of work. has 170k on the odo, 2 bad axles, on bad bearing, broken AC etc, etc.

Was working on replacing the CV axles last night and also have the lower ball joints to replace. Since my bud owns a perf. shop I can use his stuff if needed but I tried to tackle most of it in my garage (I do have a shop press but no air tools).

Axles so far are simple as are removing the tie rod ends (did I mention the rack is leaking too?). Lower ball joint is a slight pain since my puller kept slipping off, but eventually used a 3 jaw bearing puller that you can "lock" on. The upper ball joint on the other hand... oh the joy I had with that thing. I have 3 pullers and none will work on that one since there is little space to position them.

Does anyone have suggestions on the best method to remove the upper ball joint? I read some of the tech stuff but most use a 2 jaw and that has not been working for me.

Thanks in advance... oh an my name is Mike, I also have a 95' swapped GC impreza (older STi engine and drivetrain) and this is my first Honda.

-Mike.

 

Remove the upper control arm from the chassis, and make sure your ball joint is removable. Some years had the joint spot welded onto the arm making you change out the whole thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the upper control arm from the chassis, and make sure your ball joint is removable. Some years had the joint spot welded onto the arm making you change out the whole thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the feedback. The upper ball joint IS part of the upper a arm (not removable). I was trying to remove the kuckle from the upper ball joint.

Thanks,
-Mike.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mpaone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for the feedback. The upper ball joint IS part of the upper a arm (not removable). I was trying to remove the kuckle from the upper ball joint.

Thanks,
-Mike.</TD></TR></TABLE>


anyone gotta picture of this i can't picture it to help him.


oh, and have you tried a hammer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90_EX_Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


oh, and have you tried a hammer?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yes! So much so I will have to re-thread the ball joint.

-Mike.

 

Rented a "front end servicing" kit from Advance and one of the pullers in the kit worked like a charm for both the tie rod end and the upper ball joint.

I am going to try to purchas this part separately and I'll post the name and part number. I also (with much patience) re threaded my banged up upper ball joint, added some high temp bearing grease and a Prothane poly boot.

-Mike.

 

Update for those who care.

got one side back together. The side w/ the bad bearing had seized the axle into the hub. Went to my buds shop after several attempts to use a 3lb sledge to knock it loose. Used his 60 ton press and as the gauge swept past 25 or so a loud BANG and the axle came loose.

Now I pressed the hub out and the inner race is on there good so after work will use another puller on that. Next, removing the bad bearing and keeping my fingers crossed that the knuckle isn't scuffed badly.

-Mike.

 

Everything is back together and it is MUCH better. Unfortunately the LF knuckle is bent. I can barely fit one finger between the "good" knuckle and bottom of the spring but can fit more than 2 on the "bad" side.

Looks like the person before me pressed the old seized axle out and supported the knuckle wrong which bent it. I say this cause the rest of that sides suspension (upper and lower arms, strut) looks fine so I doubt it was an accident. The front left wheel is 1.8 degrees positive camber and the right is 2.0 negative (SLIGHT difference). I thought this was due to the trashed bearing but not so. Trying to source a used hub/ knucke assembly now.

-Mike.

 

just for future reference. when u are busting an upper balljoint loose with a hammer. you want to hit the top of the knuckle not the actual balljoint.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just for future reference. when u are busting an upper balljoint loose with a hammer. you want to hit the top of the knuckle not the actual balljoint. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, read about that after the fact.

Now I have the correct puller, works like a champ.

-Mike.

 

Last update to this thread...

My friend sourced a used hub, bearing, knuckle assembly. I started the install last night about 8:30 (I know, not smart). Actually had the old stuff off and started installing the new about 9:15.

As I was tightening the axle nut, it seemed a little loose. I was able to turn the axle without the hub. So the hub was a larger one (SI maybe?) So off everything came.

First I attempted to remove just the hub and inner bearing race and switch them. There was a little play in the bearing, so both hubs and bearings had to be carefully pressed out, and the bearing from the old assembly (that was recently replaced) was swapped over into the used knuckle.

Everything was back together at about midnight but the car drives MUCH better. Need another alignment but the steering is easy now and it tracks fairly straight. BTW, for those of you that have a steering problem, make sure the other suspension components are OK, I for sure thought I needed a new rack since I had to fight with the wheel before, but now it's so easy to turn.

Next I will tackle the rear since i hear a slight humming from one side at speed. That will wait a few weeks tho.

-Mike.

 

if you dont know how to take the upper control arm off... there is two bolts in side the engine bay.. on the strut tower.... here is a picture that you guide you to the bolts to remove...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knightsef-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you dont know how to take the upper control arm off... there is two bolts in side the engine bay.. on the strut tower.... here is a picture that you guide you to the bolts to remove...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm... I did not need to remove the upper control arm (a arm). Also those are strut mount bolts in the pic.

-Mike.