BC K26 Crank...what do you guys think of it? Should I go with it? Yes or no?
Talked to Brian at BC regarding his K26 crank. What do you guys think of it? Should I or shouldn't I?
K24 block resleeved to 90mm
BC K26 crank (103mm stroke) and their custom rods
ACL B18A/B Bearings
11.0:1 cr pistons
Rod ratio: 5.985" c-to-c / 4.055" stroke = 1.48:1
K24 block resleeved to 90mm
BC K26 crank (103mm stroke) and their custom rods
ACL B18A/B Bearings
11.0:1 cr pistons
Rod ratio: 5.985" c-to-c / 4.055" stroke = 1.48:1
I don't have any personal experience but see this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
and PM this guy team1320_k26eg
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
and PM this guy team1320_k26eg
Wow...
Man up on that compression please.
I've had good luck with the BC stroker kits. We've had some testing on a k26 and its spun to 9k and makes power all the way up there as well. Its got a good amount of mileage on it so far(street car) and i plan on tearing it down for inspection at the end of the season.
Man up on that compression please.
I've had good luck with the BC stroker kits. We've had some testing on a k26 and its spun to 9k and makes power all the way up there as well. Its got a good amount of mileage on it so far(street car) and i plan on tearing it down for inspection at the end of the season.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have any personal experience but see this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
and PM this guy team1320_k26eg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man!
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
and PM this guy team1320_k26eg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeySpec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow...
Man up on that compression please.
I've had good luck with the BC stroker kits. We've had some testing on a k26 and its spun to 9k and makes power all the way up there as well. Its got a good amount of mileage on it so far(street car) and i plan on tearing it down for inspection at the end of the season.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you say street car, you running straight 91 pump gas or mix? What compression are you at? I don't know what is the highest cr I can possibly go using 91 pump gas (because that's the highest pos pump gas there is in Cali here). Of course a mix or straight race car running around the streets would be nice. Just really playing with the idea, otherwise just going to stick with K24 stock block for daily.
Man up on that compression please.
I've had good luck with the BC stroker kits. We've had some testing on a k26 and its spun to 9k and makes power all the way up there as well. Its got a good amount of mileage on it so far(street car) and i plan on tearing it down for inspection at the end of the season.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you say street car, you running straight 91 pump gas or mix? What compression are you at? I don't know what is the highest cr I can possibly go using 91 pump gas (because that's the highest pos pump gas there is in Cali here). Of course a mix or straight race car running around the streets would be nice. Just really playing with the idea, otherwise just going to stick with K24 stock block for daily.
Being in Chicago we have 93 octane and e85. This k26 is 12.5:1 and used to run on 93 but has since been tuned to run on e85. Talk to your tuner and see what he feels is acceptable for 91 octane compression.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OneSimpleHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Talked to Brian at BC regarding his K26 crank. What do you guys think of it? Should I or shouldn't I?
K24 block resleeved to 90mm
BC K26 crank (103mm stroke) and their custom rods
ACL B18A/B Bearings
11.0:1 cr pistons
Rod ratio: 5.985" c-to-c / 4.055" stroke = 1.48:1
</TD></TR></TABLE>
103 Stroke? Are you sure it isnt a 102mm ?
I personally like the B18C Journals sizes.
11:1 is a little low on the compression side for some real power.
Is this for a true daily driver?
K24 block resleeved to 90mm
BC K26 crank (103mm stroke) and their custom rods
ACL B18A/B Bearings
11.0:1 cr pistons
Rod ratio: 5.985" c-to-c / 4.055" stroke = 1.48:1
</TD></TR></TABLE>
103 Stroke? Are you sure it isnt a 102mm ?
I personally like the B18C Journals sizes.
11:1 is a little low on the compression side for some real power.
Is this for a true daily driver?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by regamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
103 Stroke? Are you sure it isnt a 102mm ?
I personally like the B18C Journals sizes.
11:1 is a little low on the compression side for some real power.
Is this for a true daily driver? </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the formula that Brian @ BC gave me.
Yes, I mean a truly daily driver. Not one where I have to mix 91 with a bit of race gas if you know what I mean. To me there is just a big difference between a street car and a true daily driver. Just researching a little bit here. But seriously if the cost doesn't justify it, just going to stick with a bone stock bottom end TSX K24 and do some headwork, cams, etc and call it good. What do you think about that?
103 Stroke? Are you sure it isnt a 102mm ?
I personally like the B18C Journals sizes.
11:1 is a little low on the compression side for some real power.
Is this for a true daily driver? </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the formula that Brian @ BC gave me.
Yes, I mean a truly daily driver. Not one where I have to mix 91 with a bit of race gas if you know what I mean. To me there is just a big difference between a street car and a true daily driver. Just researching a little bit here. But seriously if the cost doesn't justify it, just going to stick with a bone stock bottom end TSX K24 and do some headwork, cams, etc and call it good. What do you think about that?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeySpec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Being in Chicago we have 93 octane and e85. This k26 is 12.5:1 and used to run on 93 but has since been tuned to run on e85. Talk to your tuner and see what he feels is acceptable for 91 octane compression. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, if we had 93 around here, I'd think about a 12:1+. I don't know about the E85 around here though.
Yup, if we had 93 around here, I'd think about a 12:1+. I don't know about the E85 around here though.
Given that this is a dd and not a race car, 11.1:1 is a very good compression ratio. You can make the power by running more advanced timing. I would worry more about matching up the intake, camshaft, and header.
You'll make plenty of power on 11 to 1. More will yield more power, but the stroke will make up for it.
With the ability to change cam timing on the fly the K series motor is good to about 13:1 CR on 91 octane...A good tuner is a must of course!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OneSimpleHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is the formula that Brian @ BC gave me.
Yes, I mean a truly daily driver. Not one where I have to mix 91 with a bit of race gas if you know what I mean. To me there is just a big difference between a street car and a true daily driver. Just researching a little bit here. But seriously if the cost doesn't justify it, just going to stick with a bone stock bottom end TSX K24 and do some headwork, cams, etc and call it good. What do you think about that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
that stroke is too big for a "true Daily Driver" look at a stock 99mm stroke or maybe even a 101mm. Anything more, wont last too long. At the looks of it too, that is a really small (short) rod in that package.
This is the formula that Brian @ BC gave me.
Yes, I mean a truly daily driver. Not one where I have to mix 91 with a bit of race gas if you know what I mean. To me there is just a big difference between a street car and a true daily driver. Just researching a little bit here. But seriously if the cost doesn't justify it, just going to stick with a bone stock bottom end TSX K24 and do some headwork, cams, etc and call it good. What do you think about that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
that stroke is too big for a "true Daily Driver" look at a stock 99mm stroke or maybe even a 101mm. Anything more, wont last too long. At the looks of it too, that is a really small (short) rod in that package.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by regamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that stroke is too big for a "true Daily Driver" look at a stock 99mm stroke or maybe even a 101mm. Anything more, wont last too long. At the looks of it too, that is a really small (short) rod in that package. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what about for road racing/time attack
that stroke is too big for a "true Daily Driver" look at a stock 99mm stroke or maybe even a 101mm. Anything more, wont last too long. At the looks of it too, that is a really small (short) rod in that package. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what about for road racing/time attack
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JW racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what about for road racing/time attack</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would definitely depend on what class/organization you are running with. Running HC you can only use oem cranks. Running time attacks the classification starts with the chasis. You can run a race engine in a street chasis and compete in "street" class. If it were a basic motor for road course i'd stick with the oem k24 crank. The large(r) strokes at high revs for long periods just beats down the bearings quickly and wears down the thrust surfaces.
what about for road racing/time attack</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would definitely depend on what class/organization you are running with. Running HC you can only use oem cranks. Running time attacks the classification starts with the chasis. You can run a race engine in a street chasis and compete in "street" class. If it were a basic motor for road course i'd stick with the oem k24 crank. The large(r) strokes at high revs for long periods just beats down the bearings quickly and wears down the thrust surfaces.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Given that this is a dd and not a race car, 11.1:1 is a very good compression ratio. You can make the power by running more advanced timing. I would worry more about matching up the intake, camshaft, and header. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, was thinking if I go that route with the BC crank, just do some good work on the head.
Yeah, was thinking if I go that route with the BC crank, just do some good work on the head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCFIVER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the ability to change cam timing on the fly the K series motor is good to about 13:1 CR on 91 octane...A good tuner is a must of course!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you guarantee that? Or have you try a similar build yourself? 13:1 on 91 is really pushing it. I mean seriously without any additonal oomph to the 91 gas, I think one is really taking chances. Although I have to agree that a good tuner is very important.
Can you guarantee that? Or have you try a similar build yourself? 13:1 on 91 is really pushing it. I mean seriously without any additonal oomph to the 91 gas, I think one is really taking chances. Although I have to agree that a good tuner is very important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team1320_k26eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of numbers are you looking for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A solid 250 hp with 200+ lb of torque. Looking for a very solid and wide powerband on 91 pump gas. I mean literally 91 pump gas. Of course I can always go that other route and do a full build like "you" lolz. Your motor is a freaking monster! I dreamt of a crazy build 3 years ago. Had most of the parts for the crazy @$$ build, including k20 head, k24 block, valvesprings, retainers, the whole works, but financial situation changed. Sold everything. Plus now, my overall situation has changed altogether. Still want to mess with cars, even though I'm married now and have a son. But it's just not that easy anymore.
A solid 250 hp with 200+ lb of torque. Looking for a very solid and wide powerband on 91 pump gas. I mean literally 91 pump gas. Of course I can always go that other route and do a full build like "you" lolz. Your motor is a freaking monster! I dreamt of a crazy build 3 years ago. Had most of the parts for the crazy @$$ build, including k20 head, k24 block, valvesprings, retainers, the whole works, but financial situation changed. Sold everything. Plus now, my overall situation has changed altogether. Still want to mess with cars, even though I'm married now and have a son. But it's just not that easy anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by regamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that stroke is too big for a "true Daily Driver" look at a stock 99mm stroke or maybe even a 101mm. Anything more, wont last too long. At the looks of it too, that is a really small (short) rod in that package. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You think so? You did bring up a good point in terms of longevity. You think the rod is too short? Can you elaborate please? Thanks.
that stroke is too big for a "true Daily Driver" look at a stock 99mm stroke or maybe even a 101mm. Anything more, wont last too long. At the looks of it too, that is a really small (short) rod in that package. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You think so? You did bring up a good point in terms of longevity. You think the rod is too short? Can you elaborate please? Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeySpec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It would definitely depend on what class/organization you are running with. Running HC you can only use oem cranks. Running time attacks the classification starts with the chasis. You can run a race engine in a street chasis and compete in "street" class. If it were a basic motor for road course i'd stick with the oem k24 crank. The large(r) strokes at high revs for long periods just beats down the bearings quickly and wears down the thrust surfaces.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do bring up some good points too in regards to larger strokes beating on the bearings quickly. That is also something I need to rethink and perhaps reconsider this whole project for a daily driver.
It would definitely depend on what class/organization you are running with. Running HC you can only use oem cranks. Running time attacks the classification starts with the chasis. You can run a race engine in a street chasis and compete in "street" class. If it were a basic motor for road course i'd stick with the oem k24 crank. The large(r) strokes at high revs for long periods just beats down the bearings quickly and wears down the thrust surfaces.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do bring up some good points too in regards to larger strokes beating on the bearings quickly. That is also something I need to rethink and perhaps reconsider this whole project for a daily driver.
You will have excellent experiences with the BC crank, and will not have any bearing issues...if the engine is built properly with good lubricants in place. Do not get too caught up in the rod ratios, as there is more influence on port velocity than the so called "side loading" (as many tend to read up on, and regurgitate).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bisimoto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do not get too caught up in the rod ratios, as there is more influence on port velocity than the so called "side loading" (as many tend to read up on, and not understand).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Corrected, slightly
Corrected, slightly








