motor idles like it has cams after tune
b18c-R
-3" ITR cai w/ velocity stack & filter
-hytech header
-2.5" test pipe
-2.38" 5zigen cat-back
-skunk2 cam gears (intake +3/exhaust -1)
-tuned on crome
My car idles like It has skunk2 pro 1's & you can literally hear the aggressive idle from the exhaust. I did a dry compression test and got 225, 225, 225, 225. I also cleaned out the IACV and replaced the TPS sensor before the tune and set it at OEM spec with a volt meter. Valve adjustment was performed 6,000 miles ago. I also did my timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner 6,000 miles ago and my belt is put on pretty tight. Cap/rotor/spark plugs were replaced today. It's target idle during the tune was set around 800 RPM, but yet again It idles at 600ish and sometimes at 1000RPM. I also tighten up my throttle cable today because It was pretty loose from the pedal, but I don't think that made a difference.
Is this normal for a stock ITR tuned?
I even looked at my cams when I bought my motor from the warehouse and everything is factory spec.
-3" ITR cai w/ velocity stack & filter
-hytech header
-2.5" test pipe
-2.38" 5zigen cat-back
-skunk2 cam gears (intake +3/exhaust -1)
-tuned on crome
My car idles like It has skunk2 pro 1's & you can literally hear the aggressive idle from the exhaust. I did a dry compression test and got 225, 225, 225, 225. I also cleaned out the IACV and replaced the TPS sensor before the tune and set it at OEM spec with a volt meter. Valve adjustment was performed 6,000 miles ago. I also did my timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner 6,000 miles ago and my belt is put on pretty tight. Cap/rotor/spark plugs were replaced today. It's target idle during the tune was set around 800 RPM, but yet again It idles at 600ish and sometimes at 1000RPM. I also tighten up my throttle cable today because It was pretty loose from the pedal, but I don't think that made a difference.
Is this normal for a stock ITR tuned?
I even looked at my cams when I bought my motor from the warehouse and everything is factory spec.
Something sounds wrong... Start disconnecting your fuel injector clips one by one to ensure all cylinders are getting noid. Also go ahead and perform the same task with your plug wires to ensure you are getting spark to all cylinders.
If that turns out ok, go ahead & put a wideband on the car to determine what a/f ratios you are seeing at idle & partial throttle. I would suggest taking the car back to the tuner.
If that turns out ok, go ahead & put a wideband on the car to determine what a/f ratios you are seeing at idle & partial throttle. I would suggest taking the car back to the tuner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something sounds wrong... Start disconnecting your fuel injector clips one by one to ensure all cylinders are getting noid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car sometimes has trouble starting I think my fuel pump might be going bad I mean the fuel pump does have about 160,000 miles on it lol. But Ill check the injectors tomorrow and maybe get a new fuel pump/fuel filter.
My car sometimes has trouble starting I think my fuel pump might be going bad I mean the fuel pump does have about 160,000 miles on it lol. But Ill check the injectors tomorrow and maybe get a new fuel pump/fuel filter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something sounds wrong... Start disconnecting your fuel injector clips one by one to ensure all cylinders are getting noid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I let my car idle to normal operating temperature and I disconnected the injectors clips one by one. Injectors are working fine.
I let my car idle to normal operating temperature and I disconnected the injectors clips one by one. Injectors are working fine.
if you run the valve lash too tight, it will make the motor sound cammed.
if it didnt idle like that before getting tuned, i would take it back to the tuner.
if it didnt idle like that before getting tuned, i would take it back to the tuner.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you run the valve lash too tight, it will make the motor sound cammed.
if it didnt idle like that before getting tuned, i would take it back to the tuner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah It never idled like that. Besides can't you burn a valve if you don't valve lash the correct setting?
Anyways every time i pump gas into my car It has a hard time starting... literally 4-5 second turnover and it bogs down and the car turns on. I'm 100% sure fuel pump needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it was help the idling.
if it didnt idle like that before getting tuned, i would take it back to the tuner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah It never idled like that. Besides can't you burn a valve if you don't valve lash the correct setting?
Anyways every time i pump gas into my car It has a hard time starting... literally 4-5 second turnover and it bogs down and the car turns on. I'm 100% sure fuel pump needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it was help the idling.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyways every time i pump gas into my car It has a hard time starting... literally 4-5 second turnover and it bogs down and the car turns on. I'm 100% sure fuel pump needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it was help the idling.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had this same problem with mine. It was the fuel pump. I was using a OEM 99 SI one and replace it with a walbro 250. The problem when away. Also tuned on crome
Anyways every time i pump gas into my car It has a hard time starting... literally 4-5 second turnover and it bogs down and the car turns on. I'm 100% sure fuel pump needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it was help the idling.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had this same problem with mine. It was the fuel pump. I was using a OEM 99 SI one and replace it with a walbro 250. The problem when away. Also tuned on crome
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carloselpavo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had this same problem with mine. It was the fuel pump. I was using a OEM 99 SI one and replace it with a walbro 250. The problem when away. Also tuned on crome</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
I had this same problem with mine. It was the fuel pump. I was using a OEM 99 SI one and replace it with a walbro 250. The problem when away. Also tuned on crome</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
Do you have a stock P73 ECU you can test with. Before you go replacing high dollar items, make sure it isn't a bad tune. A stock ECU will eliminate that variable easily.
I can make a stock D15 idle like a cam'ed small block with a couple keystrokes.
I can make a stock D15 idle like a cam'ed small block with a couple keystrokes.
Is your tuned Crome bin running a P30 codebase? If so go to options and adjust the IACV duty cycle slider to around +10%.
Exact thing happened to my car when i changed from P72 codebase to P30 the idle just went up and down - sometimes so low that the car stalled at a stop.
Exact thing happened to my car when i changed from P72 codebase to P30 the idle just went up and down - sometimes so low that the car stalled at a stop.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a stock P73 ECU you can test with. Before you go replacing high dollar items, make sure it isn't a bad tune. A stock ECU will eliminate that variable easily.
I can make a stock D15 idle like a cam'ed small block with a couple keystrokes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I had my stock ecu with bolt-ons a few months ago it idled normal.
I can make a stock D15 idle like a cam'ed small block with a couple keystrokes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I had my stock ecu with bolt-ons a few months ago it idled normal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tianporn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is your tuned Crome bin running a P30 codebase? If so go to options and adjust the IACV duty cycle slider to around +10%.
Exact thing happened to my car when i changed from P72 codebase to P30 the idle just went up and down - sometimes so low that the car stalled at a stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm actually running a p28 ecu not sure if it answers your question or not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm actually running a p28 ecu not sure if it answers your question or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No not the ecu but the code base which your Crome map has been tuned on.
I'm actually running a p28 ecu not sure if it answers your question or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No not the ecu but the code base which your Crome map has been tuned on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tianporn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No not the ecu but the code base which your Crome map has been tuned on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I'm not sure, but once i find out from my tuner Ill report back.
No not the ecu but the code base which your Crome map has been tuned on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I'm not sure, but once i find out from my tuner Ill report back.
IIRC only Crome 1.4.9 has IACV duty cycle control that works, older versions it was there, but not functional.
I suggest trying the B18's P73 ECU. You will know if you have a hardware or tune issue.
I'm not in Cali, but you can send the .bin to Marshall.Hagen@wwufsae.com
I suggest trying the B18's P73 ECU. You will know if you have a hardware or tune issue.
I'm not in Cali, but you can send the .bin to Marshall.Hagen@wwufsae.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IIRC only Crome 1.4.9 has IACV duty cycle control that works, older versions it was there, but not functional.
I suggest trying the B18's P73 ECU. You will know if you have a hardware or tune issue.
I'm not in Cali, but you can send the .bin to Marshall.Hagen@wwufsae.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct.
You could also send to me if you want me to take a look. You should be able to get your tuner to email you the bin. IM me for my email address.
I suggest trying the B18's P73 ECU. You will know if you have a hardware or tune issue.
I'm not in Cali, but you can send the .bin to Marshall.Hagen@wwufsae.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct.
You could also send to me if you want me to take a look. You should be able to get your tuner to email you the bin. IM me for my email address.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah It never idled like that. Besides can't you burn a valve if you don't valve lash the correct setting?
Anyways every time i pump gas into my car It has a hard time starting... literally 4-5 second turnover and it bogs down and the car turns on. I'm 100% sure fuel pump needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it was help the idling.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unplug your evap purge solenoid & canisters.
If you replace the fuel pump with a unit that flows more you want to make sure you run the same static fuel pressure as you did when the car was tuned or your tune will be worthless.
From my experience, I have a feeling your idle issue is tuning related.
Sitting on a forum & asking us to remotely diagnose the issue for you is not exactly the best idea. If you presented us with data such as a binary file, datalogs with air fuel information we maybe able to guide you in the right direction.
Yeah It never idled like that. Besides can't you burn a valve if you don't valve lash the correct setting?
Anyways every time i pump gas into my car It has a hard time starting... literally 4-5 second turnover and it bogs down and the car turns on. I'm 100% sure fuel pump needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it was help the idling.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unplug your evap purge solenoid & canisters.
If you replace the fuel pump with a unit that flows more you want to make sure you run the same static fuel pressure as you did when the car was tuned or your tune will be worthless.
From my experience, I have a feeling your idle issue is tuning related.
Sitting on a forum & asking us to remotely diagnose the issue for you is not exactly the best idea. If you presented us with data such as a binary file, datalogs with air fuel information we maybe able to guide you in the right direction.



