need help with integra gsr 200whp
himy name is david and i have a 2000 integra gsr. its stock so far and im looking to make 200whp. my budget is 3000$. any advice would be great thanks
In my own opinion.
81.25 bore
ITR, B16b, pistons
LS Crank And Rods With ARP bolts or Aftermarket LS size rods
Nice set of Cams Like Crower(403,404?) Jun III, Buddy Club III, Blox spec A, Civic type R something like that. Forgive me honda-tech if I used the wrong cam numbers.
Springs and Retainers maybe valves too?
Skunk2, edelbrock or blox intake manifold with a Hondata gasket.
Maybe a 68mm Throttle body.
Port, polish, valve job, Port match throttle body and intake manifold, a slight mill of the head.
A full system balance by your machine shop.
A tri-y Header, high flow cat, Resonator, and a nice Tanabe muffler.
A hondata S100/200 System and a quality tune by your local tuner.
Run The **** Out Of It
81.25 bore
ITR, B16b, pistons
LS Crank And Rods With ARP bolts or Aftermarket LS size rods
Nice set of Cams Like Crower(403,404?) Jun III, Buddy Club III, Blox spec A, Civic type R something like that. Forgive me honda-tech if I used the wrong cam numbers.
Springs and Retainers maybe valves too?
Skunk2, edelbrock or blox intake manifold with a Hondata gasket.
Maybe a 68mm Throttle body.
Port, polish, valve job, Port match throttle body and intake manifold, a slight mill of the head.
A full system balance by your machine shop.
A tri-y Header, high flow cat, Resonator, and a nice Tanabe muffler.
A hondata S100/200 System and a quality tune by your local tuner.
Run The **** Out Of It
i agree with everything horse has said except the pistons. mahle offers forged pistons made out of 4032 alloy that weigh 40g less than the type r units and are stronger. they also cost similar money and can run a fairly tight wall clearance unlike arias or some of the turbo oriented pistons. the nitrated steel top ring is also superior to the honda unit. cam wise, i'd give crower a call & talk about your goals. they actually have a cam with a pretty mild primary lobe coupled with an aggressive vtec. if you can get that head flowing enough 200whp should be do-able. one last piece of advice i can share is this: there is a ton of bad advice in honda engine building if you read everything on the net. luckily, i grew up with drag racing v-8s so cam design, heads, compression, manifolds and how they work togeater is something i'm firmiliar with. do your best to speak with engine builders and those in the industry with some knowledge.
In my opinion, try to concentrate most of your money on the top end of the motor. Really good port and polish with a nice set of cams ( rocket m22x or skunk2 pro1's) and leave the bottom end alone. Headwork with cams and all associated hardware/tuning will prob eat up a good portion of your $3k and you will see the best results from a better flowing head over a rebuilt bottom end!! After you have the top end done, and save up some more money, then get the bottom end done!! IMHO
if you have a low mile bottom end, all the power is made in the top half. only looking for 200whp you really don't need to go with boost. if you want to run 12s and keep civil street manners then you definately need to play with FI
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this is true. 7-8psi won't cause much in the way of cylinder walking. hey, has anyone used one of those block guard things? they make sense since they strengthen the top of the block. i just wondered if they reduce cooling since they are in our water jacket.
Greddy turbo kit 
or home-made, if yor state doesn't require crazy smog checks.
An H22 swap would probably fit in your budget too.. could sell your GSR motor,
then use the extra $$$ to modify the H22 and have even more WHP than a fully built
GSR

or home-made, if yor state doesn't require crazy smog checks.
An H22 swap would probably fit in your budget too.. could sell your GSR motor,
then use the extra $$$ to modify the H22 and have even more WHP than a fully built
GSR
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