Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

1993 CEL Code 4 Crankcase Angle - any advice?

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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:26 AM
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dallasXJ's Avatar
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From: Allen, TX, Collin
Default 1993 CEL Code 4 Crank Angle - any advice?

I have a 1993 Accord LX with 5MT and keep getting a CEL during normal driving (general highway speeds). If the light is not present, the engine runs like a top and no problems at all. Once the light comes on, the engine runs like a ragged mule...

When the light comes on, and if I'm at cruising speed, there is a little bit of a lurch like I hit something, then the sputtering and struggling to maintain highway speeds. From a start, the engine sputters, stalls at higher revs (2500+), so quick shifting using low revs (2000) gets me moving again but its staggering.

Also, another symptom with CEL on is a presence of gasoline smell in the passenger compartment...? Other than the ragged performance and gas smell, all other systems run/drive just fine.

To reset this light, usually can turn off ignition, then turn back on - sometimes works, sometimes not.

The CEL code given is "4" which translates to "crank angle" on this year - WTF is that? I did some searches here, CB7Tuner.com, and other forums with little ideas to fix. Most dealers won't hint at what I need without charging the $96 diag fee, which of course would be credited toward my repair if they perform the service

A code 4 on other years/models gives a Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, but for this year model, there's not even a sensor part listed by Honda...

Any ideas, advice, or experiences with this that multi-forum site searches have not revealed to me? TIA!
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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Mr Yamada's Avatar
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Default Re: 1993 CEL Code 4 Crank Angle - any advice? (dallasXJ)

The CKP is internal of the distributor on your year of Accord.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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Much thanks! I'll start looking there!
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Default Re: (dallasXJ)

I looked over all the wiring to/from the distributor and I see no problems (exposed wiring, loose connections, etc.), so the next step would be to replace the whole distributor? An expensive proposition to be sure, but if that fixes the problem, it's worth it...any other ideas?
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