Wheel movement
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Had my car re-aligned and when the mechanic had the car up on the rack he shook the wheel and there was movement. He said my rack&pinion was shot.
The steering gearbox is new, I have the Quaife short steer kit (new washers and all) and a new bushing in there. I've adjusted the lock nut and it's a lot better now but the play in each wheel is still present. When shaking either wheel (drivers or pass) the steering wheel moves also. There is 10mm play in the steering wheel which is the norm. I'm not sure if the allowed movement in the wheels is normal or not, can someone point me in the right direction?
Maybe I need to tighen up the steering rack again?
The steering gearbox is new, I have the Quaife short steer kit (new washers and all) and a new bushing in there. I've adjusted the lock nut and it's a lot better now but the play in each wheel is still present. When shaking either wheel (drivers or pass) the steering wheel moves also. There is 10mm play in the steering wheel which is the norm. I'm not sure if the allowed movement in the wheels is normal or not, can someone point me in the right direction?
Maybe I need to tighen up the steering rack again?
I kind of remember reading a whole crazy tighten & loosen steering rack adjustment process on an Si rack; check chiltions or the factory manual if you have access. Previous post (Hondaisok) is correct as well but, if you still have a lot of play after that you may need wheel berings.
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New wheel bearings, hubs looked fine.
The procedure for the steering rack was:
tighten steering nut then loosen x3 then torque to 3.6 ft/lbs then back it out 15 degrees. Torque steering lock nut to 46 ft/lbs. I had to use a wrench for everything so it was torqued to feel.
I'll re-check with the ign. steering wheel locked. I probably need to tighten the steering rack further.
Modified by ketchup at 2:40 PM 8/19/2008
The procedure for the steering rack was:
tighten steering nut then loosen x3 then torque to 3.6 ft/lbs then back it out 15 degrees. Torque steering lock nut to 46 ft/lbs. I had to use a wrench for everything so it was torqued to feel.
I'll re-check with the ign. steering wheel locked. I probably need to tighten the steering rack further.
Modified by ketchup at 2:40 PM 8/19/2008
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zero room for a tq. wrench. I'd probably have to drop the steering rack to get to it.
My Ign. lock is broken, bastard tow truck driver. What if I just have a friend hold the steering wheel?
My Ign. lock is broken, bastard tow truck driver. What if I just have a friend hold the steering wheel?
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I would do like you said and have a friend hold the wheel that way he can also tell you what he feels as well. There is going to be SOME play but if its side to side and the steering wheel isnt moving check your tie rods.
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**** I think it's the hub now - should have just replaced the hub when I got new bearings. When I move the wheel/tire by hand I see the rotor moving while the caliper stays in place. Time to order that hub from Honda now with some Nachi bearings. Any chance the steering knuckle is damaged where the hub would sit?
unlikely. my nephew hit a chimney with my car and i think he slightly bent the knuckle, but after replacing the wheel bearing a couple times i can tell you it is still a very tight fit. pull off your caliper and rotor and you can try moving the hub inside the bearing. you'll know right away if that's it
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took the wheels off and the hub/bearing looks fine! The play felt in the wheels seem to be the normal play felt in the steering (within 10mm).
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08, accord, civic, crx, honda, lot, movement, play, rack, sidetoside, steering, steeringwheel, straight, tightening, wheel




