LS OBD1 Swap, bogging problem, and rev limiter Please help
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From: Bismarck, North Dakota, United States
K bare with me on this, its going to be a long wright up.
I swapped an ls into my 88 Civic, and had the OBD1 conversion done by rywire. It was running fine till about a month after my tune. Now it wont rev passed 3500 RPM's and when it does it hits rev limiter in all gears (limp mode hard core)
. I replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cleaned some sensors and throttle body, changed coolent, cleaned the film sh** in the distributer spark "connecters" (in the cap), replaced distributer rotor. The problem is still there. I tried another OBD1 ecu and it would start and idle good but then just die. So i put mine back on and it started but started really rough. it seems to idle fine. but the CEL is always on. and i'm not sure how to check the codes, i guess i just cant find the "jumper for the codes" is it right on the fire wall? cuz when i plug a paper clip in it doesnt throw any codes. So if u could let me know what u think it is that'd be great. Thanx
Modified by kaddi88 at 7:28 PM 8/18/2008
Modified by kaddi88 at 7:53 PM 8/31/2008
I swapped an ls into my 88 Civic, and had the OBD1 conversion done by rywire. It was running fine till about a month after my tune. Now it wont rev passed 3500 RPM's and when it does it hits rev limiter in all gears (limp mode hard core)
. I replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cleaned some sensors and throttle body, changed coolent, cleaned the film sh** in the distributer spark "connecters" (in the cap), replaced distributer rotor. The problem is still there. I tried another OBD1 ecu and it would start and idle good but then just die. So i put mine back on and it started but started really rough. it seems to idle fine. but the CEL is always on. and i'm not sure how to check the codes, i guess i just cant find the "jumper for the codes" is it right on the fire wall? cuz when i plug a paper clip in it doesnt throw any codes. So if u could let me know what u think it is that'd be great. Thanx
Modified by kaddi88 at 7:28 PM 8/18/2008
Modified by kaddi88 at 7:53 PM 8/31/2008
you put a paper clip in the two wire clip(one wire is brown and the clip has a yellow boot covering it on the drivers side harness) and then turned the key to on position? right...? definately soundsa lika electrical problem. it should throw a code...
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ya mines in the engine bay then. i guess. but when i do it it doesnt thrown a code. hmm. how would i jump the map sensor?
Don't try to jump the map lol.. what exactly do you have for your set up and what exactly are you doing when checking codes?
Thread Starter
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Well my buddy said that the jumper is under the glove box. so lol i dno. but its just and ls, cams intake cam gears, retainers, springs and header and exhaust is pretty much what i have now.
When i "try" and check the codes lol, well i actually havent been able to cuz it doesnt throw any, just a solid CEL.
When i "try" and check the codes lol, well i actually havent been able to cuz it doesnt throw any, just a solid CEL.
88,89 models the service check connector is on the driver side wire harness in the middle of the engine bay right near the fender. 90 91 is under the pass. dash...
If your car is converted to obd1 then it should throw a code by shorting the conn. and then turning the key just before the start mode. wait and it should start slowly blink with a solid light and short burst lights.
Better check your timing too.
If your car is converted to obd1 then it should throw a code by shorting the conn. and then turning the key just before the start mode. wait and it should start slowly blink with a solid light and short burst lights.
Better check your timing too.
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well i got the timing tuned a month ago, but when i changed my plug wires cyl 1's wire connecter was jammed up inside. but when i got it tuned it ran fine for like a month and now it just starts rough with the new plugs to. im not sure why. but right now im plugged the paper clip in the jumper and there are no codes at all. the cel comes on then just goes away.
Where was it jammed inside?? have you ever removed the distributor since you have the timing done? got any pic's of your wiring?
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From: Bismarck, North Dakota, United States
I only took the cap off, and what pics of the wiring do you want? I have a jumper from Rywire, and the normal OBD1 conversion they did. all the wires are right and i havent changed since i got the swap done. I put the clip pretty far in there. should it be way far or just a lil bit?
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So today i tried the new ecu again and it starts rough and then just dies. so thats a lil funky. and then later tonight i started the car and it bogged like normal and hit rev limiter and then a minute later i could go passed 3500 without it bogging. so i really dont know what the crap is going on. its obviously wiring but were? to the distributer is what im guessing.
OK..... if you have the jumper harness there will be a bundle of wires coming off the ecu jumper harness there should be a orange and a blue wire that goes to nothin turn the key in the on position and jump the orange and blue wires together and that will tell you your codes, the cel will flash and tell you the codes and go from there your just wasting money replacing parts that doesnt need to be replaced
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alright i'll go check that right now. thanx for ur help for sure. ill be back in a few mins to tell u whats up
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i checked the integra FAQ and it said crank position sensor. were is that at?
check if ur cat gets red..it might be ur car..i had the same problem wit my ef
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Well i got it tuned. then found the spark plug wire was messed up so i got new ones. and how do i do the TDC right?
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From: Bismarck, North Dakota, United States
k so i was just driving and wanted to see if this would affect it . i downshifted into 2nd and it the rpm's were over 3500 rpm's.it didnt bog down or hit rev limiter. so all im wondering is wtf. lol hit me up with any info
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