Low offset or Non Staggered wheels ?
To those of you that are running low offset, or non staggered wheels...
How does the car handle now?
More Oversteer?
More Understeer?
Neutral?
I see a lot of people running so many different wheels now, but it is all about looks it seems, I never read any comments as to wether the car handles better or not.....
I regularly autox my S in A-Stock class...... So I cant change my wheels without it changing my class, technically...(our local club is fairly leaniant on the rules though)
Just curious for those that drive their cars on track or autox w/ different than stock wheels/offsets.....
How does the car handle now?
More Oversteer?
More Understeer?
Neutral?
I see a lot of people running so many different wheels now, but it is all about looks it seems, I never read any comments as to wether the car handles better or not.....
I regularly autox my S in A-Stock class...... So I cant change my wheels without it changing my class, technically...(our local club is fairly leaniant on the rules though)
Just curious for those that drive their cars on track or autox w/ different than stock wheels/offsets.....
Im runing 17x9 with a 45 offset all around. The car feels great and neutral. The part I love the best is the turn in into a corner and its more responsive.
For Auto-X I would assume the non staggered would be best. As wide as you can fit on the car... 9"+45 will def need some fender work in the front and rear if you are lowered.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For Auto-X I would assume the non staggered would be best. As wide as you can fit on the car... 9"+45 will def need some fender work in the front and rear if you are lowered.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe......however, changing wheels to anything other than stock rim widths and offsets technically puts you in a different class.....
wether or not my local SCCA club would enforce the rulebook or not?
maybe......however, changing wheels to anything other than stock rim widths and offsets technically puts you in a different class.....
wether or not my local SCCA club would enforce the rulebook or not?
So run stock wheels... Why would you ask here if you were worried about changing classes? Do they really allow you to run wheels you "claim" are the same sizes as the factory wheels? I would assume they do not actually remove and check everyone wheels, and then comparing them to stock specs and your local tracks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So run stock wheels... Why would you ask here if you were worried about changing classes? Do they really allow you to run wheels you "claim" are the same sizes as the factory wheels? I would assume they do not actually remove and check everyone wheels, and then comparing them to stock specs and your local tracks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you re-read my post I asked about handling characteristics of the car for those that are running low offset or non staggerd wheels.....not wether or not changing wheels would change my car classification in a autox... I already know the answer to that.....
your post did not tell me a thing about how the car handles w/ either scenario.....
If you re-read my post I asked about handling characteristics of the car for those that are running low offset or non staggerd wheels.....not wether or not changing wheels would change my car classification in a autox... I already know the answer to that.....
your post did not tell me a thing about how the car handles w/ either scenario.....
I wouldn't bend any Solo rules with the club. It's unfair tot he others and just causes problems later.
I have a few sets of wheels I run on, and I don't think the wheel stagger means as much as the tire stagger. I've run as little as 20mm of rear tire bias, and as much as 50mm. In any case, a bigger front sway bar is pretty important to calm things down. There are a lot of factors, especially if you are running coilovers. Over the years, Honda has changed the ratio of front to rear roll stiffness from favoring the rear to favoring the front. The older your S2000, the more important I think a bigger front bar is. That has a big effect on being able to run even sized tires (and wheels). Under a few setups, I've experienced understeer.
What year S2000 do you have?
My experience may be different from what others are saying about "spirited street driving". I'm referring to at-the-limit handling on closed courses.
I have a few sets of wheels I run on, and I don't think the wheel stagger means as much as the tire stagger. I've run as little as 20mm of rear tire bias, and as much as 50mm. In any case, a bigger front sway bar is pretty important to calm things down. There are a lot of factors, especially if you are running coilovers. Over the years, Honda has changed the ratio of front to rear roll stiffness from favoring the rear to favoring the front. The older your S2000, the more important I think a bigger front bar is. That has a big effect on being able to run even sized tires (and wheels). Under a few setups, I've experienced understeer.
What year S2000 do you have?
My experience may be different from what others are saying about "spirited street driving". I'm referring to at-the-limit handling on closed courses.
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Most people will say that running non staggered setup will drastically change the handling of the car, but realistically the difference will not be that big unless you are driving at 9/10ths all the time
running non staggered gives you more over steer. if you are in a stock class you have to keep stock wheels sizes but can run non staggered tires. for A stock it is popular to run 245 hoosier a6 all around for AP1 and locally there is a guy running 275 hoosier A6 all around on his CR. if you are in BSP, SM2, or FP you can run any wheel combo.
for just driving on the streets unless if you are going all out you will notice a difference with non staggered but not as much as if you were going all out. no one should go all out on the streets. though.
for just driving on the streets unless if you are going all out you will notice a difference with non staggered but not as much as if you were going all out. no one should go all out on the streets. though.
thats why i'm not buying wheels anytime soon, i try to autox as much as i can, but want to stay in the lowest class. So i just clean and paint mine when i want to be.. umm creative.
non staggered will provide the best handling, sense a staggered setup tends to create understeer in that the smaller tire up front will lose traction before the rears. However when making big power staggered is pretty much the only option so if your n/a stick to a neutral non staggered setup. You could do the same wheel width all the way around but change up your rear offset to create a staggered appearance without sacrificing handling.
its true. when you go say 225f, 255r those fronts will def. lose grip first and cause some ***lame** plowing. however, it sort of makes the car a lot safer on the track. i actually like my re01rs in stock ap1 sizes, because the rears are still relatively narrow so it makes the car tail happy and easy to play with. probably the fastest would be non staggered 245 or 55, just as the Japanese time attack cars use. however, like they said you can't just throw those wheels on, you will have to tweak other parts of the suspension to get the feel just right.
i go to the local philly scca auto x just to watch adn hang out im actually gona run for the first time this sunday. Anyways when i was there i met a really cool s2k owner in the a-stock class he gets pretty bad *** times he runs 245 r-compounds on all four stock rims and a swaybar in the front forget the brand sorry hes got a 00.
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