So I had a thread about this about a month back..https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2339535 I installed a new clutch, but the car wont go into any gear..

After talking to some Techs at work.. it sounded like I had put the disk in backwards ( which I know now would be almost impossible.)

So last night I took my trans back off and saw that since the cable was so short, the fingers on the pressure plate were actuallybeing pushed all the way to the springs on the clutch disk and grinding against the metal.. My question is.. could that force have been so great, that it wouls have kept it from going into gear? I honestly dont know what else to conclude..

Any and all help is appreciated

also (as brought up by someone in the previous thread) : I was using Red Line MTF in the gear box

 

you put that in your tranny and you'll screw it up
it's to thick and theres a good chance you'll damage it
you should use regular old 10-w40

 

i had that prob. to and i loosened the cable all the way and it stoped and worked fine

 

how about just using Honda MTF.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beana &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you put that in your tranny and you'll screw it up
it's to thick and theres a good chance you'll damage it
you should use regular old 10-w40</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the heads up <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madmax91efsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had that prob. to and i loosened the cable all the way and it stoped and worked fine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats good news.. ill buy the right cable.. someone on the other post said a 91 integra will work??...did yours not go into gear at all? <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by busychild &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about just using Honda MTF.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will do that 4 sure! thanks

 

anyone else?.. I would appreciate any suggestions before I throw everything back together..

Does the cable sound like the problem?

Thanks Guys!

 

honda mtf is 10-w40 but i rather use synthetic

 

I will for sure.. but does anyone else hae an idea of what else is keeping the clutch from working while I have the car apart?.. thanks

 

adjust the cable ,even if you canged the tranny it shouldn't be to short

 

well the thing is.. its a B16 swap and i think the stock dx cable.. someone in the first thread said he put a 91 integra cable on his and it worked fine.. but right now mine is at max length and its still too short..

 

I was just mentioning in another thread how the D series cable would not fully engage the cable to hydro mechanism on the trans. It sounds like mine wasnt as bad as yours because mine went into gear enough to drive but had almost no power at all. I trimmed the rubber bumper at the end so the metal washer could slide down farther and now it fully engages and pulls super strong. I also ordered the integra cable but this will work for me in the mean time. Maybe you could try trimming the bumper on the end of your cable, it gives you about a half to 3/4s of an inch more length. Maybe it will save you from having to buy another cable. If you want I can post a pic to show you.

Also if you adjust the nut behind the clutch pedal to let it come all the way up you can get another 1/4 inch or so.

(Just a side note, I had mine adjusted to the max length when it was too short)

 

Sometimes you have to take out some of the rubber stuff (like the last post says) or take the clutch bracket off to install the cable and then it will actually get fully seated into the bracket.

 

Just buy a 90-91 Integra clutch cable, the CRX is too short and wont work unless you trim the rubber piece, or have a worn out clutch...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beana &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda mtf is 10-w40 but i rather use synthetic </TD></TR></TABLE>

don't use synthetic in your tranny. Just use Honda MTF

 

make sure you torque your pressure plate to flywheel bolts to spec also. Over torquing can cause the pressure plate to be constantly disengaged.

 

Man.. I really owe you guys an appology.. I havent been checking my own thread THANKS FOR ALL THE FEEDBACK!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dlaub25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just mentioning in another thread how the D series cable would not fully engage the cable to hydro mechanism on the trans. It sounds like mine wasnt as bad as yours because mine went into gear enough to drive but had almost no power at all. I trimmed the rubber bumper at the end so the metal washer could slide down farther and now it fully engages and pulls super strong. I also ordered the integra cable but this will work for me in the mean time. Maybe you could try trimming the bumper on the end of your cable, it gives you about a half to 3/4s of an inch more length. Maybe it will save you from having to buy another cable. If you want I can post a pic to show you.

Also if you adjust the nut behind the clutch pedal to let it come all the way up you can get another 1/4 inch or so.

(Just a side note, I had mine adjusted to the max length when it was too short)</TD></TR></TABLE>

that makes me feel alot better.. and yea a pic would be awesome.. I honestly never thought the cable beeing too short would cause this problem..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IndySporty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes you have to take out some of the rubber stuff (like the last post says) or take the clutch bracket off to install the cable and then it will actually get fully seated into the bracket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Im going to Just buy the new cable but I might just do this untill it
comes

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaakro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

don't use synthetic in your tranny. Just use Honda MTF</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will do that for sure.. But just out of curiosity.. why is synthetic bad?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phatrick2332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you torque your pressure plate to flywheel bolts to spec also. Over torquing can cause the pressure plate to be constantly disengaged.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea someone in the last thread mentioned the torque specs.. I think it was either 13Lbs or 19Lbs but I will look it up for sure.. Good lookin out

thanks again guys!

I appreciate all the feedback I can get

 

Well to answer one of your questions (well maybe not answer) I remember hearing that synthetic was too slippery for trannies. Something about there needing to be a certain amount of friction between parts like the syncros.
Heres the picture of the end of the shift cable with some of the rubber trimmed back. I showed in yellow where the rubber on the one side ended before I modified it.


This was enough play to fix the problem but I like things to work the way they are made to and not be jerry rigged together so I bought a cable off of a integra and can confirm it fits and works well. It allows for much better pedal adjustment. The bad part for me is I'm pretty sure the clutch is starting to slip @ high rpms from the damage that was done so its time to replace it .
GOOD LUCK WITH IT!!

 

Redline MTL is made with the popper friction modifiers and weight for our trannys. Works great and have used it many times with ZERO problems. As with any case you are on H-T and someone has had an issue with every single product known to man on here, mostly from misuse or other issues present before said failures. With that said I have found that pennzoil synchromesh works a bit better for notchy gears. Honda MTL works fine for most but the newer stuff is quite thin and may cause issues when you tranny temps rise from "spirited" driving or racing.


Get a new cable or modify yours.

***** Weak!

 

I hope I dont offend you by asking this because that is not my intention I just dont understand what you mean by "***** Weak!". Chances are it was just over my head,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dlaub25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope I dont offend you by asking this because that is not my intention I just dont understand what you mean by "***** Weak!". Chances are it was just over my head, </TD></TR></TABLE>


Just something said in the movie "Grandmas Boy". Was not meant to mean anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Redline MTL is made with the popper friction modifiers and weight for our trannys. Works great and have used it many times with ZERO problems. As with any case you are on H-T and someone has had an issue with every single product known to man on here, mostly from misuse or other issues present before said failures. With that said I have found that pennzoil synchromesh works a bit better for notchy gears. Honda MTL works fine for most but the newer stuff is quite thin and may cause issues when you tranny temps rise from "spirited" driving or racing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.. For certain applications, redline mtl is just fine to run in honda transmissions. They have a spec sheet where they address the issue specifically, and read the back of the bottle.. 10w30 is an engine oil viscosity rating that redline oil claims to be compatible with.. I have to run Redline MT-90 in my d-series cable trans, because anything else and I grind the hell out of second, no matter how slow I shift after my transmission warms up. I am running a 4.9 final drive though, so hardly a stock transmission.

 

Yeah I figured I missed something, Sorry.

 

Damn you guys have been helping me out and I blew the project off for a month.. BIG APOLOGY I just started college and its already kicking my *** time wise!

big thanks to dlaub25 for the pic and the explanation of why not to use synthetic in the gear box I actually just ordered the integra cable and some new lower ball joints on Monday.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Redline MTL is made with the popper friction modifiers and weight for our trannys. Works great and have used it many times with ZERO problems. As with any case you are on H-T and someone has had an issue with every single product known to man on here, mostly from misuse or other issues present before said failures. With that said I have found that pennzoil synchromesh works a bit better for notchy gears. Honda MTL works fine for most but the newer stuff is quite thin and may cause issues when you tranny temps rise from "spirited" driving or racing.


Get a new cable or modify yours.

***** Weak!</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info! ive actually read about people mixing the syncromesh with mtf.. but ive never tried it and im not sure its worth the hype.. have you?
nice g-ma's boy line drop by the way!


sanimalp - thanks for the info

AND NOW IT GETS INTERESTING!

I decided to have a few of the techs at work take a look at my tranny before i put it back in (why not right? plus I have no clue what im doing when it comes down to the guts!) Anyways, I brought it to work and when I was unloading it onto a cart I decided to check the t/o bearing one more time.. and when I lifted the arm.. I saw that the fork that pushes it was behind the hooks (of the tensioned spring mechanism) that hold the bearing on instead of toughing the actual bearing itself(sorry I don't know all the technical terms) this pushes the bearing out about 1/4-1/2 inch more than it should which explains why the bearing pushed the fingers of the pressure plate all the way to the disk.

so that could be another reason why the cable felt so short.. and hopefully it is a BIG part of the overall problem..

my question is: do you think this incorrect replacement of the bearing could be causing the problem? (preventing me from shifting)

thanks guys!

again ALL help is appreciated!!

 

So I repositioned the the t/o bearing and fork.. and the new cable came in yesterday.. any more suggestions before I put it all back together?

any and all help is apreciated