I have a '00 GSR sedan that's due for a timing belt change (around 105K on it now). She is pretty much bone stock when it comes to drivetrain, the only thing non-stock is the K&N filter that fits into the stock box.

Now, I'm pondering whether I should get a lighter flywheel for her. Since the mechanic is going to be doing the timing belt and take apart quite a bit of the engine, putting the flywheel in shouldn't be too hard, I figure. Is that so?

Also, I read that the timing might need to be changed with the lighter fw, is that true as well? If so, any ideas to what?

And last but not least, what brand of flywheel to get?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synchromesh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now, I'm pondering whether I should get a lighter flywheel for her. Since the mechanic is going to be doing the timing belt and take apart quite a bit of the engine, putting the flywheel in shouldn't be too hard, I figure. Is that so?

Also, I read that the timing might need to be changed with the lighter fw, is that true as well? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Changing the timing belt has nothing to do with the flywheel. Why would your mechanic be taking the transmission off to change the timing belt, unless he is doing the rear main seal.

Also a lighter flywheel will not change the timing, but allow the car to rev faster. If the car is your daily driver, I would suggest an ITR flywheel. They are 14 or 15lbs vs the 19lb GS-R flywheel.

If you want to go really light, just get a Fidanza. Mine was 7.5lbs. I daily drive mine and it's ok, but it's also on my ls/vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Changing the timing belt has nothing to do with the flywheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2, I doubt you will be saving any many since he will be working on the opposite side of the engine where the timing belt is, as opposed to the tranny...

 

I would add, if the timing belt is being changed, have the water pump changed as well. The cost of the pump is trivial next to the cost of the labor to remove the belt, and the belt has to come off to change the pump, so you might as well replace it while the belt is off.

 

I'm going to be doing the whole enchilada that comes with the belt including water pump and all seals because I already had a wonderful experience of cheapening out on a TB job with my previous car ('93 Accord) and oil leaking from engine after 60K miles.

Thanks for the FW stuff, I'll find out how much more the labor on that would cost. How are Fidanza wheels reliabilitywise?

By changing I meant that it has to be changed to accommodate a faster acceleration of the engine internals. That's what I read on the web.

 

I have a 96 gsr and i have bolt-ons and exedy stg 2 clutch and fidanza 7.5lb flywheel i actually bought the car this way and I though it would be hard to drive but its not its really fun it revs faster but supposely the rpms drop faster each shift but i don't notice it but what I really notice is that it has no torque but a lot of top end though.

 

mines also a DD but you should just go oem type r it should be better than the gsr IMO.