1-3k RPM bogging?
hey guys i just bought a 5th gen 97 type sh a few weeks back and it has a pretty bad Bogging problem at LOW RPMS only.
If im in 2nd or 3rd 4th or 5th and i try to accelerate hard, the car bogs until i past about 3k RPM.
If i REAL Lightly accelerate the bogging between those Rpms aren't as hasrsh.
I read some articles and some suggested a new O2 sensor or Knock sensor..
but the thing is i havent had any CEL lights come up at all.
Also checked my spark plugs and they seem fine.
At higher RPMS and even during VTEC, the car runs fine.
thinking about starting low with a bottle of carb cleaner but im having doubts.
Any major suggestions?
Modified by BB1LOViN at 2:12 AM 8/14/2008
If im in 2nd or 3rd 4th or 5th and i try to accelerate hard, the car bogs until i past about 3k RPM.
If i REAL Lightly accelerate the bogging between those Rpms aren't as hasrsh.
I read some articles and some suggested a new O2 sensor or Knock sensor..
but the thing is i havent had any CEL lights come up at all.
Also checked my spark plugs and they seem fine.
At higher RPMS and even during VTEC, the car runs fine.
thinking about starting low with a bottle of carb cleaner but im having doubts.
Any major suggestions?
Modified by BB1LOViN at 2:12 AM 8/14/2008
Don't bother with additives. Best thing to do with fuel injected systems is to remove componenets and clean them physically. The detergents don't honestly do much in general. Just like the oil stop leaks stuff. They usually are useless.
Theres lots of posts on 3k rpm hesitation. I would search for it. There should be LOTS of juicy info.
I would personally say the O2 sensor or knock sensor could be good guess in my opinion, but wait for varification. More so the o2 sensor though I would assume (would not like to make an *** of myself though
.
If you replace don't buy the cheaper boshe ones. Get an oem or better (if possible lol)
Theres lots of posts on 3k rpm hesitation. I would search for it. There should be LOTS of juicy info.
I would personally say the O2 sensor or knock sensor could be good guess in my opinion, but wait for varification. More so the o2 sensor though I would assume (would not like to make an *** of myself though
.If you replace don't buy the cheaper boshe ones. Get an oem or better (if possible lol)
I also own a '97 SH and have a similar problem. Any mods on the car? Have you done a compression test to make sure the motor's healthy? If you can, you might also try driving somebody else's 5th gen and make sure you're not just missing what most Honda's don't have (ie, low-end torque).
call it a lame question, but can you guys show me where exactly the EGR valve, and knock sensors are?
Is there a way to check that for sure it is either the knock sensor or 02? I dont have any check engine lights yet.
Would adjusting the idle itself help?? The car usually idles at operating temps around 650rpm which i believe is LOW but not sure if this would help at all.
Is there an idle adjust screw on these 5thgens?
Also i've read up on disconnecting the EGR valve and running it to clean it, any experience which this??
BTW thanks for the quick responses guys.
Is there a way to check that for sure it is either the knock sensor or 02? I dont have any check engine lights yet.
Would adjusting the idle itself help?? The car usually idles at operating temps around 650rpm which i believe is LOW but not sure if this would help at all.
Is there an idle adjust screw on these 5thgens?
Also i've read up on disconnecting the EGR valve and running it to clean it, any experience which this??
BTW thanks for the quick responses guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clean out the EGR.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plus one
You can search around for the EGR crap.
Ive disabled the EGR from My prelude. And if you have a bad sensor, you will most likely throw a code.
Sounds like you are suffering from EGR issues.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plus one
You can search around for the EGR crap.
Ive disabled the EGR from My prelude. And if you have a bad sensor, you will most likely throw a code.
Sounds like you are suffering from EGR issues.
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Yeah, I realized that alot of people break knock sensors. I know that they are expensive, so I removed mine before putting the newer h23 in my car. The knock sensor is located on the backside of the engine under the intake and above the oil filter. If you dont have a lift, then its on the very bottom of the head, on the firewall side of the motor.
-Hope that helps
-Hope that helps
Theres too many things that can cause bogging or hesitation during acceleration. I don't suggest just throwing additives into the car and hoping that helps. Throwing parts into it is even more costly, but the first thing I would do is give a tune-up. Replace the plugs, wires and dizzy. You could also clean out the EGR Valve and the throttle body with some carb cleaner. After that you could replace the fuel filter. Idling at 650 is pretty healthy for a 5th gen too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22LudeSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres too many things that can cause bogging or hesitation during acceleration. I don't suggest just throwing additives into the car and hoping that helps. Throwing parts into it is even more costly, but the first thing I would do is give a tune-up. Replace the plugs, wires and dizzy. You could also clean out the EGR Valve and the throttle body with some carb cleaner. After that you could replace the fuel filter. Idling at 650 is pretty healthy for a 5th gen too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with H22LudeSH; I had the same situation in my Prelude. I had OEM spark plug wires until I had reached 100K; indeed I went for non-OEM wires, cap, rotor and NGK Platinum plugs. NOTE, go for the 'best' wires that money can buy (just don't go overkill). I tried to just go for the basic ones...bad choice; had to go back and get the lifetime warranty ones...and it was well worth it. @ 117K now, and it's been running like new since then. As well, do other major tune-ups as well (air filter, fuel filter, and fuel injection) only after you've resolved the bogging issue). I hope this helps...
I agree with H22LudeSH; I had the same situation in my Prelude. I had OEM spark plug wires until I had reached 100K; indeed I went for non-OEM wires, cap, rotor and NGK Platinum plugs. NOTE, go for the 'best' wires that money can buy (just don't go overkill). I tried to just go for the basic ones...bad choice; had to go back and get the lifetime warranty ones...and it was well worth it. @ 117K now, and it's been running like new since then. As well, do other major tune-ups as well (air filter, fuel filter, and fuel injection) only after you've resolved the bogging issue). I hope this helps...
thanks for the checklist guys
once i find the time i will start with cleaning the throttle body. and move from there
also is there any way to check (other than taking it off) to see if my EGR, cap/ rotors, or knock sensor are faulty??
once i find the time i will start with cleaning the throttle body. and move from there
also is there any way to check (other than taking it off) to see if my EGR, cap/ rotors, or knock sensor are faulty??
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