So a couple weeks back when it was really hot (live in the bay area), i went to brake and my pedal just slipped all the day like the brakes were melting.. but all I had to do was press it a couple more times like to pump it so the fluid, i'm guessing, went into action. i want to know the cause of this as i'm driving down to socal in a couple weeks for school. do i my lines need to be bleed? no idea on this. thanks!

 

When is the last time you changed your brake fluid?
Recommended brake fluid change every 2 years.

Probably your old brake fluid is old and the boiling point has lowered significantly to the point that it is boiling in the calipers.

 

hmm maybe i do need new fluid. i just suck it the whole one out of the container, lost words, and fill it with new fluid?

any bleeding needed?

 

zbump

 

Easiest way to do it is to not to empty the reservoir.Unless you don't mind bleeding your brakes to get the air out.

The simplest way is to attach a hose to the bleeder valve.Open the valve and have someone press on the brakes. the key to this is to keep adding brake fluid to the reservoir. Since the point is not to let air in the system so you don't have to bleed the brakes.

Another way to do it is to empty the reservoir. Then drain each brake line by opening it and pressing the brakes till there is no fluid. Repeating the process for each line.Then with all the bleeder valves closed fill the reservoir and start the bleeding process. Add Brake fluid as needed.

1. First the rear passenger side
2. Front driver side
3. Rear driver side
4. Finish with the front driver side.

I personally don't like this process because it will mean that you have to bleed the brakes. More often then not more than once. On the other hand the first method tends to mix the old fluid with the new one. So pick one of the two ways and go for it.

 

you need a new master cylinder.

almost certainly. you realize it most when its hot because the thermal expansion exaggerates bad seals.

unless you have a leak in the system and losing fluid in the reservoir. but if reservoir is still full, the leak is internal in the master cylinder and needs complate replacement.

 

cuanto cuesta? how much? difficulty of diy?

 

looked it up. any recommendations? not trying go overboard. just want to stop haha

 

buy any MC, but i prefer OEM MC from honda. look at the faq for online dealers. however, some aftermarket companies available at the parts store include a bench bleeding kit which can come in handy later. you do not NEED to change it to any bigger size, stock is fine, works best for stock brakes.

install it yourself.

you MUST MUST MUST purchase a FLARE NUT WRENCH, in order to disconnect the brake lines.

BENCH BLEED the MC while it is bolted to the booster, but before its connectedto the brake lines so you can use the pedal to push the fluid thru. google what bench bleeding means.

and then connect and bleed the system fully. get a big bottle of any dot 3 or 4 brake fluid.

 

is this why i been hearing a funny noise the last couple days? not enough fluid getting to my MC? its like a something is kinda rubbin against each other. that or my right axle i'm guessing.

 

"boiling" the calipers???? i have a 91 crx si and the honda dealer is telling me i need to replace my entire brake system because i had the back drivers caliper freeze up and i boiled the system. a new master cylinder was installed but the pedal still goes to the floor, tech said one bad caliper lead to this???