Ok just got my 97 integra last week stock LS and added a few stuff to it already. I got the Sparco seats with the harnesses and injen short ram intake. Thing is I don't really know much engine wise and want to go LS VTEC. I bought this car as my daily driver and just wanted to know how would I go LS VTEC?

 

not to be rude but if your not very engine savoy i would not recomend doing it yourself but if you are alright you can get a ls vtec kit then all you need is the head intake mani dizzy and valves/valve cover and here is the option you can either get a gsr ecu or a vtec controler if your not to savoy with wireing i would recomend the ecu cause then all you have to do is one wire

 

read through this first
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.....html

 

ls vtec is a great choice for integra. great power output. very reliable if done correctly. i got a golden eagle lsv kit and arp headstuds also a fresh build gsr head with type r internals for sale if ur interested. was ready to do my car but end up selling it.
pm me if u need it

 

I'm also interested in ls/v but many say it's unreliable. I suspect the reason behind it to be because they're building these motors and cutting corners and using ebay parts (i'll be damned if i use an ebay gasket!). Can someone clear up the common misconceptions of LS/Vtec? I seen a nice writeup here on H-T on how to build a reliable LS/Vtec but i'm more concerned with those who've had this setup for a period of more than a few months. Those who built it the RELIABLE way!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VerbalVenom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm also interested in ls/v but many say it's unreliable. I suspect the reason behind it to be because they're building these motors and cutting corners and using ebay parts (i'll be damned if i use an ebay gasket!). Can someone clear up the common misconceptions of LS/Vtec? I seen a nice writeup here on H-T on how to build a reliable LS/Vtec but i'm more concerned with those who've had this setup for a period of more than a few months. Those who built it the RELIABLE way!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mines only been working for a few months so I cant vouch for years of reliability however IMO I think the rumor of the build being "unreliable" all comes down to cost and time/attention spent on making it reliable. I think its like you said, because people start cutting corners and cheaping-out on factors that make the engine durable. Just read-up on all the write ups and pay close attention to the requirements and you should do fine!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lstek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls vtec is a great choice for integra. great power output. very reliable if done correctly. i got a golden eagle lsv kit and arp headstuds also a fresh build gsr head with type r internals for sale if ur interested. was ready to do my car but end up selling it.
pm me if u need it </TD></TR></TABLE>

my friend has had an LSVTEC in his civic for a little over a year now and its never given him problems but he has also put alot of time and money into it.. if done right it will last if not then it wont last for ****

 

^Definitely. I'm wanting to work on a project motor because it's something i've wanted to do for a very long time. I mean I want to rebuild my B18a, but why not go LSVtec if i'm going to rebuild the motor. What's the best option for the head? My friend is using a b16 head but is that really the best option? I'm willing to put alot of money into the motor as long as it comes out right and it's a fun ride.

 

what the BEST option is im not 100 percent sure... he's running a b16 head also.

it runs strong.. hes puttin down like 180 to the wheels.

and as far as it coming out right then that would be on you.. if you are good with motors then go for it. if not then i wouldnt even mess with it.

like i said before if you dump money and time and know what you are doing LSVTECs are good and will last but if not they will just cause you more headaches than anything

 

I bought my 94 LS about a year ago, it already had the built LSV done.

Supposedly the guy who built it drove it for ~8 months and the guy I bought it from daily drove it for another 6+ or so.

Go figure I talk to the guy that tuned it and he said it had a crappy tune cause the builder didn't want to pay anymore, so I had it compression tested and fully tuned, and all cylinders were at 270, everything was fine.

I haven't had any problems with it, but many many pieces were replaced originally, and the guy I bought it from was a honda technician...

 

Whats this? The ls vtec thread for the day?

Better post this

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914 - LSVTEC Build *THANKS MADNESS*
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1812388 - LSVTEC Build price list *THANKS MADNESS*
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1119323 – A Few Good Links
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1082172 – A Few More Good Links
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1083788 – Break-In Period
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=501372 – Reliability Issues
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720621 – Quarter Mile Times
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=805408 – Using LS ECU
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1467903 - B20 NonVtec FAQ - *THANKS DRINTEGRA & BAMBAM*
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1767009 - B18C1 vs B16A Head flow chart * THANKS dohcMONSTER*

Also, the reason most people consider ls/v's are unreliable is that people would just throw a b16 head and ls block together and call it a day without getting new head studs or anything else. Then they would rev the **** out of there stock LS bottom end, what do you think will happen?

Also a tune plays a big role in how good the motor runs. Hondata and a dyno will work wonders.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VerbalVenom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What's the best option for the head? My friend is using a b16 head but is that really the best option? I'm willing to put alot of money into the motor as long as it comes out right and it's a fun ride. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Both GSR and B16 heads are closely matched as far as power potential. The GSR has a Pent Roof combustion chamber design which is suppose to be better for combustion characteristics, but the advantage to using the B16 is that you have better flexibility to use an ITR intake manifold or other manifolds designed for the ITR.

If you got the cash flow then order a brand new ITR head from Honda. If I could redo one thing about my build this is the route I would have taken.

 

Dont waste money on a type r head, just buy a B16 head in great condition and send it to portflow/headgames/alaniz etc and get it ported, polished, 3 angle and built if you have the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont waste money on a type r head, just buy a B16 head in great condition and send it to portflow/headgames/alaniz etc and get it ported, polished, 3 angle and built if you have the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a better option I agree. Just make sure you get a head thats in good condition. When I bought my head I bought it from Ebay from a user who had decent feedback and provided numerous pictures of the item, but when I received the head it had scored/worn cam journals near the IN & EX timing gears.

I spent $300 to repair the head and I had to replace the cam caps which was harder than it sounds because Honda doesn't sell those separate from the entire head assembly. I was lucky and found somebody willing to sell me theirs on good'ol HT here.

Thats why I would rather buy the head new the next go around.

 

^ and you are hoping to prove it reliability to not do it again

 

If you are too stupid to search, you are incapable of building an LS/Vtec.

 

This is a repost from the other day, but I feel it might have some substance in this thread. My theory:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's been proven many times over that a well built LSV can last for quite some time. The single most significant factor in the belief that LSV's lack reliability is one that's been overlooked by pretty much everyone. You don't build one to drive to the grocery store, you don't build one to commute back and forth to work, you build one to beat the living **** out of. The number of people I know who have or have had LSV's and treated them with civility is very small. If 20% of everyone with a particular motor beats the hell out of it and half of those blow up, you're still only looking at a 10% overall failure rate. If 80% of everyone with a particular motor beats the hell out of it and half of those blow up, you have a 40% overall failure rate. This is technically the same, but still looks awful on paper.

The rod bolt issue is very well documented and is usually one of the first things to come up in an LSV discussion, and for good reason. The OEM component was simply not engineered for the level of stress that it frequently receives. At this point, building one without addressing the rod bolt situation is kind of like skydiving without addressing the parachute situation. But it wasn't always so. A good many of the horror stories associated with this particular motor involved spun bearings due to rod bolt stretch. At the time it seemed damning, but this was also before the rod bolt issue was fairly common knowledge. There's no such thing as a "stock" LSV, but comparisons aren't necessarily out of the question. Take a well built LSV versus B16A or a B18C with the same modifications and treat it the same way. I think you'll find the failure rate isn't so terribly skewed.

I'm not saying that I would take an LSV over a B18C, in fact quite the opposite. I don't know if I have the motivation to put effort into building one, as they're quite a bit of work and, more often than not, quite a bit of headache. I'd be much happier spending an extra five or six hundred bucks for an ITR swap than for all the LSV components, simply because all I'd have to do is put the motor in. Regardless of the merits (or lack thereof) of certain things, sometimes simplicity wins on principle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Link16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ and you are hoping to prove it reliability to not do it again </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, if by prove it reliability you mean reliable then yes, I feel that it will be reliable. The fact that I would consider building a B20Vtec LS/V in the future is a consideration of mine and is what I meant when I said <U>the next go around</U>.

As far as it stands rightnow, my LS/V is working well and I hope to see it last me at least 3-5 yrs for all the work I put into ensuring that it was built properly.

 

My LS/V is going on 50K and runs better than stock. It's the most powerful and reliable honda engine I've owned to date, and I've owned over 10 Honda's. I treat it very well and don't thrash it because it's my DD though.

LS/V's are very reliable, it just depends on the driver. A fully built race engine will only last a few races b/c they are driven under such extreme conditions. I don't race my car much b/c I don't feel like rebuilding it every 3 months. So, the reliability factor really depends on you personally and how you drive. It's crazy when people beat their cars and get mad when they break.