All Motor Or Boost?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,675
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From: Paradise, Newfoundland Canada
Well, I figure before I buy anything else for my car I need to offically decide on a set up.
Currently my DB2 has a B16 in it, I'm assuming 1 of the previous owners popped off the B17 and replaced it with the torqueless wonder.
The car is my Daily Driver and starting next season it will see as much track time as possible (mostly circut type but some drag mixed in for fun). I drive a 100km round trip to and from work in stop and go traffic sometimes.
So I want something that won't give me any trouble on a day to day basis.
So all motor or boost?
Currently my DB2 has a B16 in it, I'm assuming 1 of the previous owners popped off the B17 and replaced it with the torqueless wonder.
The car is my Daily Driver and starting next season it will see as much track time as possible (mostly circut type but some drag mixed in for fun). I drive a 100km round trip to and from work in stop and go traffic sometimes.
So I want something that won't give me any trouble on a day to day basis.
So all motor or boost?
IMO if I had a B16 for a daily driver I would go with Boost. Otherwise a larger displacement NA swap would be my initial choice to cure your hunger for more torque while keeping it cost effective & simple.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 1
From: Paradise, Newfoundland Canada
I'd like to spend less.
I know to do a turbo set up right will cost me a decent chunk of change where as say a B20VTEC build will be cheaper.
I know to do a turbo set up right will cost me a decent chunk of change where as say a B20VTEC build will be cheaper.
im sure any1 will suggest you to go for BOOST.. For myself, Id go for all motor for now since im college student and work part time. College student + part time job = I AINT RICH..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The G2 Racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Currently my DB2 has a B16 in it, I'm assuming 1 of the previous owners popped off the B17 and replaced it with the torqueless wonder.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The are almost identical motors the b17 is a torqueless wonder too
A b16 isn't too good of a platform to start from for a NA build, so if you plan on keepin the b16 go turbo. If not fully build a ls/v. Turbo is going to be cheaper and produce more power. If you want it to be relaible do some research and make sure you do everything the right way with no shortcuts.
Currently my DB2 has a B16 in it, I'm assuming 1 of the previous owners popped off the B17 and replaced it with the torqueless wonder.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The are almost identical motors the b17 is a torqueless wonder too
A b16 isn't too good of a platform to start from for a NA build, so if you plan on keepin the b16 go turbo. If not fully build a ls/v. Turbo is going to be cheaper and produce more power. If you want it to be relaible do some research and make sure you do everything the right way with no shortcuts.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The G2 Racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to spend less.
I know to do a turbo set up right will cost me a decent chunk of change where as say a B20VTEC build will be cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B20Vtec would actually cost about the same for a reliable DD, probably more, just look here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1676914.
To boost a B16 daily, for example, a rev hard Stage 2 turbo kit would cost about $2500, and the only thing you'd have left to buy is some injectors, fuel pumps, other misc things.
Either or isn't cheap, but hopefully you'll have an idea of where to go from here. IMO, just do whichever you prefer,
I know to do a turbo set up right will cost me a decent chunk of change where as say a B20VTEC build will be cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B20Vtec would actually cost about the same for a reliable DD, probably more, just look here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1676914.
To boost a B16 daily, for example, a rev hard Stage 2 turbo kit would cost about $2500, and the only thing you'd have left to buy is some injectors, fuel pumps, other misc things.
Either or isn't cheap, but hopefully you'll have an idea of where to go from here. IMO, just do whichever you prefer,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dredakid05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> College student + part time job = I AINT RICH..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well put!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well put!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adambomb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
B20Vtec would actually cost about the same for a reliable DD, probably more, just look here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1676914.
To boost a B16 daily, for example, a rev hard Stage 2 turbo kit would cost about $2500, and the only thing you'd have left to buy is some injectors, fuel pumps, other misc things.
Either or isn't cheap, but hopefully you'll have an idea of where to go from here. IMO, just do whichever you prefer,
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And your right. You could purchase a decent (name-brand) kit in that general price range, but thats assuming you bolt it on and run low boost on stock internals. To me, the question is <U>do you want to settle for running low boost?</U> How long can you run 7-12 psi before you get hungry for more power and wish you'd spent more money and time building the motor to take 13-24psi?
Im not saying that people don't or cant limit them selves to what there stock motor/boosted setups are capable of. I just think that its sort of a tease.If your going to boost then why not make the investment in building a stronger foundation that way you can always dial more power in later down the road.
As for building a decent NA DD? That has its plus's and minius's too, but at least with an NA setup there's not as quite as much maintenance and other associated compared to boost.
Modified by DC_Legacy at 6:14 PM 8/11/2008
B20Vtec would actually cost about the same for a reliable DD, probably more, just look here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1676914.
To boost a B16 daily, for example, a rev hard Stage 2 turbo kit would cost about $2500, and the only thing you'd have left to buy is some injectors, fuel pumps, other misc things.
Either or isn't cheap, but hopefully you'll have an idea of where to go from here. IMO, just do whichever you prefer,
</TD></TR></TABLE>And your right. You could purchase a decent (name-brand) kit in that general price range, but thats assuming you bolt it on and run low boost on stock internals. To me, the question is <U>do you want to settle for running low boost?</U> How long can you run 7-12 psi before you get hungry for more power and wish you'd spent more money and time building the motor to take 13-24psi?
Im not saying that people don't or cant limit them selves to what there stock motor/boosted setups are capable of. I just think that its sort of a tease.If your going to boost then why not make the investment in building a stronger foundation that way you can always dial more power in later down the road.
As for building a decent NA DD? That has its plus's and minius's too, but at least with an NA setup there's not as quite as much maintenance and other associated compared to boost.
Modified by DC_Legacy at 6:14 PM 8/11/2008
If you want reliability and low cost you should stay stock.
Regardless if you go NA or Boost to me you should properly build the motor. Whether that be stroked, bored, stage 3 cams, etc. NA.
Or a properly built sleeved out boosted motor that is able to withstand 20+lbs on a given track day.
Regardless if you go NA or Boost to me you should properly build the motor. Whether that be stroked, bored, stage 3 cams, etc. NA.
Or a properly built sleeved out boosted motor that is able to withstand 20+lbs on a given track day.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 1
From: Paradise, Newfoundland Canada
The more I think about it the more I want a nice all motor set up since DB2 could never be bought boosted. My build is being marketed as a retro mod so it makes sense.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gs-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N/A because so you won't blow up your motor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stop speaking out of your ***, son.
Stop speaking out of your ***, son.
One thing to think about is an entry level turbo kit is almost the definition of "one stop shopping" and can take as little as an afternoon to install if you're efficient. Engine management and tuning are also "relatively" painless in comparison.
On the other hand, even a reasonable all motor setup is generally an ongoing process, (or at least one really big long process). You generally have motor related downtime and a lot more skilled labor involved, as well as part shopping headaches. None of this is even considering the fact that a halfway decent all motor build can easily more than a halfway decent turbo.
On the other hand, even a reasonable all motor setup is generally an ongoing process, (or at least one really big long process). You generally have motor related downtime and a lot more skilled labor involved, as well as part shopping headaches. None of this is even considering the fact that a halfway decent all motor build can easily more than a halfway decent turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gs-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N/A because so you won't blow up your motor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Explain how an NA motor will not blow.
Explain how an NA motor will not blow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gs-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N/A because so you won't blow up your motor</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know nothing
you know nothing
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