B18A1 Build. Help Needed!
So I bought a 93 teg about 3 weeks ago, and it has a few mods and is decently fast. right now it puts 141 hp to the wheels. I want to reach 200 to the wheels. I was thinking turbo but then decided that i want NA. So now I wanted to know the best way to achieve this goal.
The goal I have is not exactly 200 it's over 200 like 220 or so.
Modified by naler62188 at 10:32 AM 8/9/2008
The goal I have is not exactly 200 it's over 200 like 220 or so.
Modified by naler62188 at 10:32 AM 8/9/2008
I hope you have a lot of money......and a lot of blood, sweat, and tears......and a lot of time......
There are several working formulas for breaking the 200 mark, may I suggest doing some reading in the All Motor forum here on HT.
There are several working formulas for breaking the 200 mark, may I suggest doing some reading in the All Motor forum here on HT.
im sorry, but to make a b18a hit anywhere close to 200whp NA is nearly impossible without boost.
Its hard enough to get a vtec motor to hit that number without serious work, so getting a non vtec motor up to that level is going to take some serious work and money...
Im actually curious as to how you got over 20whp out of your LS motor now, unless you have cams in there...i dont see it being possible without a bore and huge cams.
Its hard enough to get a vtec motor to hit that number without serious work, so getting a non vtec motor up to that level is going to take some serious work and money...
Im actually curious as to how you got over 20whp out of your LS motor now, unless you have cams in there...i dont see it being possible without a bore and huge cams.
If you're looking for those high whp numbers, you're going to wanna go the LS/VTEC route. Minor headwork (cams, P&NP, etc), JDM P73 or PCT pistons will help you reach over that 200whp goal. For 220, you're going to need a LOT more work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmTypeRdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its hard enough to get a vtec motor to hit that number without serious work, so getting a non vtec motor up to that level is going to take some serious work and money...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true, a B18C5 with GOOD bolt ons and GOOD tunning can easily hit the 200whp mark.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmTypeRdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its hard enough to get a vtec motor to hit that number without serious work, so getting a non vtec motor up to that level is going to take some serious work and money...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true, a B18C5 with GOOD bolt ons and GOOD tunning can easily hit the 200whp mark.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuckMyDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're looking for those high whp numbers, you're going to wanna go the LS/VTEC route. Minor headwork (cams, P&NP, etc), JDM P73 or PCT pistons will help you reach over that 200whp goal. For 220, you're going to need a LOT more work.
Not true, a B18C5 with GOOD bolt ons and GOOD tunning can easily hit the 200whp mark.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes i know that a b18c5 with good bolt ons and good tuning can hit that mark...but im talking about your regular b16a/or b18c1 motor. An ITR motor is not too far off from 200whp, since they already come stock with about 165whp.
What i am referring to is a b16a or b18c1 motor would be hard to get it up to 200whp. There have been numerous posts and you need very good bolt ons, very aggressive cams, higher compression, and very good tuning. Thats assuming youre leaving the car with stock displacement.
Sometimes on gsr motors, i would know since i own one, its necessary to do some minor head work, like a port and polish to reach anything over 200whp. Its very hard to do so with stock bore, stock compression and stock displacement. Not to mention the b18a is gonna be near impossible without boost or lsvtec.
Not true, a B18C5 with GOOD bolt ons and GOOD tunning can easily hit the 200whp mark.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes i know that a b18c5 with good bolt ons and good tuning can hit that mark...but im talking about your regular b16a/or b18c1 motor. An ITR motor is not too far off from 200whp, since they already come stock with about 165whp.
What i am referring to is a b16a or b18c1 motor would be hard to get it up to 200whp. There have been numerous posts and you need very good bolt ons, very aggressive cams, higher compression, and very good tuning. Thats assuming youre leaving the car with stock displacement.
Sometimes on gsr motors, i would know since i own one, its necessary to do some minor head work, like a port and polish to reach anything over 200whp. Its very hard to do so with stock bore, stock compression and stock displacement. Not to mention the b18a is gonna be near impossible without boost or lsvtec.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hpimichael02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much can i bored out my B18a1/b1 block???</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can bore it out to a 2.0 or better yet, swap the bottom end for a b20b block...
You can bore it out to a 2.0 or better yet, swap the bottom end for a b20b block...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmTypeRdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can bore it out to a 2.0 or better yet, swap the bottom end for a b20b block...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not on stock sleeves you can't.
You can bore it out to a 2.0 or better yet, swap the bottom end for a b20b block...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not on stock sleeves you can't.
thanks guys, ive been looking around, and im getting rid of my b18a1 along with both of my ys1 trannys. i think i'm going with an obd1 b16 with an lsd tranny. They put 170 to the crank so that's a good starting place. after I get that I will be getting the tanabe exhaust with some type of headers and getting rid of my cat
then will be an AEM cold air skunk 2 stage 2 cams cam gears ferra valves and skunk 2 valve springs and retainers, other than that i'm not sure how else to reach my goal, oh well i got alot of more research to do. I really don't want to go turbo, but if i must.
then will be an AEM cold air skunk 2 stage 2 cams cam gears ferra valves and skunk 2 valve springs and retainers, other than that i'm not sure how else to reach my goal, oh well i got alot of more research to do. I really don't want to go turbo, but if i must.
idk if its na id build the head with skunk2 ****,and some aem pro adjustable cam gears,good brand header like replica of hytech or real i guess,individual throttle bodies,and i like aem short ram intake cus it sounds better but cold air prob do a little better,rsr catback exhaust is prob where you wanna go with on the exhaust even tho i havnt looked into them much.also on the head id prob go with Pro series and not tuner series.On the bottom end i wouldnt wanna tell you where to go there thats up to you.Also a exedy clutch would be alot better then if your running oem.Yes i know some of the stuff doesnt matter for hp but its gonna matter when hes finished...Also a tranny stock may or may not be the greatest.
i was gonna get the b18b1 block with the new head,
and use:
Eagle 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft
Eagle 4340 Forged 3-D H-Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
SRP Forged Pistons
Piston Wrist Pins, Locks and Piston Rings included
ACL High performance bearings
CROWER TWIN CAMSHAFTS stage 2
OMNI POWER VALVES
ti retainers
Dual valve spring
end result 11.3/1
this a good setup?
and use:
Eagle 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft
Eagle 4340 Forged 3-D H-Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
SRP Forged Pistons
Piston Wrist Pins, Locks and Piston Rings included
ACL High performance bearings
CROWER TWIN CAMSHAFTS stage 2
OMNI POWER VALVES
ti retainers
Dual valve spring
end result 11.3/1
this a good setup?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:si:. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idk if its na id build the head with skunk2 ****,and some aem pro adjustable cam gears,good brand header like replica of hytech or real i guess,individual throttle bodies,and i like aem short ram intake cus it sounds better but cold air prob do a little better,rsr catback exhaust is prob where you wanna go with on the exhaust even tho i havnt looked into them much.also on the head id prob go with Pro series and not tuner series.On the bottom end i wouldnt wanna tell you where to go there thats up to you.Also a exedy clutch would be alot better then if your running oem.Yes i know some of the stuff doesnt matter for hp but its gonna matter when hes finished...Also a tranny stock may or may not be the greatest.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you've gotta be kidding me....
yeah, get 4 short ram intakes for your itb's.
you've gotta be kidding me....
yeah, get 4 short ram intakes for your itb's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i was gonna get the b18b1 block with the new head,
and use:
Eagle 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft
Eagle 4340 Forged 3-D H-Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
SRP Forged Pistons
Piston Wrist Pins, Locks and Piston Rings included
ACL High performance bearings
CROWER TWIN CAMSHAFTS stage 2
OMNI POWER VALVES
ti retainers
Dual valve spring
end result 11.3/1
this a good setup? </TD></TR></TABLE>
bump
i was gonna get the b18b1 block with the new head,
and use:
Eagle 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft
Eagle 4340 Forged 3-D H-Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
SRP Forged Pistons
Piston Wrist Pins, Locks and Piston Rings included
ACL High performance bearings
CROWER TWIN CAMSHAFTS stage 2
OMNI POWER VALVES
ti retainers
Dual valve spring
end result 11.3/1
this a good setup? </TD></TR></TABLE>
bump
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