i have an ek4, previuos to following mods to car i was fairly happy but roll at rear wasnt to my liking hence doing mods

*ek9 rear subframe fitted along with ek9 arb but now more oversteer than id like

i used to run ek9 arb but after tearing subframe went back to ek4 for coupl;e years but while running ek9 before im sure i never had oversteer i have now (was couple years back)

car is having 4 wheel geometry setup done tommorow on hunter aligment machine(have camber arms fitted all round) so hopin this will help overall balance of car as way out of spec at the mo

any other simple mods i can do to combat oversteer if its still there after setup ?

ive also just changed wheels couple hours ago from 16x7" 42mm offset to 15x6.5 with 35mm offset with new tyres

advice/tips much appreciated, any info required ill do my best to provide

 

I'm not positive on this but beefing up your front sway bar might help. I was told that beefing up the front swaybay would add understeer, so logically wouldn't this help counteract oversteer?

 

exactly what i thought, will dig deeper on that area and see what difference is between ek9 and ek4 front swaybar, id imagine even a 1mm difference would be enough to better the balance


Modified by vti444 at 1:56 PM 8/2/2008

 

you can lower your rear tire pressure and soften your front spring rate.

 

The EK9 Front swaybar measures at 26mm

Dont know about the EK4

but my EJ6 with EK9 ARBs all arounds handles with a lil more understeer than oversteer...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can lower your rear tire pressure and soften your front spring rate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i run lower pressure on rears, springs are staying for now as on oem ek9 springs which as an overall balance im not really gonna beat until i go to coilovers in future but tips appreciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can lower your rear tire pressure and soften your front spring rate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

softening front springs will help induce oversteer

 

Try less camber up front and more in the rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try less camber up front and more in the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

had full aligment done yesterday and now run just over 1deg neg camber up front and 1.25 deg negative camber at the back now, specs were quite out but at mild level now for fast road use

been for a good blast and car feels better all round but most oversteer gone but still a tad more than id like

BUT ive done so many changes over the last week im havin to learn to drive car again so hopefully ill just get used to car and its limits again

defo think i need another 0.5 deg ng camber all round though (daily driver so need good all round compromise hence no extreme settings)

guess ill find out for real how good car is on track with somethin like set of azeni rt-615

now need a lsd and coilovers with full corner weighting but finances wont allow that for a while so gonna make most of what i have

i have issue with caster on 1 side being way out compared to other side which doesnt surprise me as i have that all too common problem of driver side sitting lower on my ek which i could never resolve after changing most components but ill have to get some of the spc arms that allow caster adjustment and getthat corrected

 

You could easily go with -2 rear camber and still be fine on tire wear, just as long as the toe is correct.

Also, ride height (being lower on driver's side) should have no effect at all on your caster readings. One side being way off indicates frame damage, or some suspension part bent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could easily go with -2 rear camber and still be fine on tire wear, just as long as the toe is correct.

Also, ride height (being lower on driver's side) should have no effect at all on your caster readings. One side being way off indicates frame damage, or some suspension part bent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im probably gonna go with -1.5 deg fr and -2deg in future

caster situation has me baffled now as ive owned car for over 5 years now (purchased in like new condition and totally stock), ive never had single accident or takin any kinda bad knock to cause chassis/suspension damage but what you say would usually explain problem i have so very confused

just asbout every bush has been changed as well

 

caster can be altered by shifting the subframe.
not at all shocking that it's off, since most places don't know how to correct it, and seldom check for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">caster can be altered by shifting the subframe.
not at all shocking that it's off, since most places don't know how to correct it, and seldom check for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any more info on this please ?

on a hunter machine my pass side caster is 1.05 while driver side is -1.00

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vti444 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

any more info on this please ?

on a hunter machine my pass side caster is 1.05 while driver side is -1.00</TD></TR></TABLE>

Subframe mount holes are either slotted, or just larger than the bolts, and can allow for a small amount of adjustment by moving the location of the lower ball joint. If you hit something really hard, it can sometimes shift the subframe out of alignment.

 

2* caster is not as much as you think it is. I was +2*L and -4*R when I had my subframe out due to a seized LCA bolt.

the holes are notably larger than the bolt, the subframe can move almost half the width of the hole forward or backward. (it's a large bolt)
Everything was worked out for my setup while on the alignment rack. No reason why yours can't do the same.