I always change the oil every 3,000 and I got this new in 01/06 so I have taken care of it myself. I live in PHX and so the air is always on High. When I stop at a light the idle goes down real low and though it's mild the car shakes a little and you think it will die, but it doesn't. When driving at night the headlights dim when the A/C goes on (more significant than normal). It seems to run better right after an oil change. Also, it seems not to have as much get up and go when its hot, this is a new one. Is this just expected as it gets older or should I do something like flush the radiator or start using synthetic oil, maybe buy a better battery? I know that it shouldn't need anything for 100k, but... The odd thing is that it gets BETTER gas mileage now than ever. I got 39 mpg on a recent trip to Utah. Last...I have replaced both visors 3 times. Anyone know how to make these crappy things last?


Modified by elementalpuck at 11:38 AM 7/31/2008

 

The low idle and shaking sounds normal. Mine does it when the compressor kicks on and so does my fiance's car. Actually most people I know with 4 cylinder engines tend to do this for some reason (all brands).

Now would be a good time to change your coolant and tranny fluid if you haven't.

 

coolant is good to 120,000. def a trans fluid change if not done.

 

hows your battery? original?

 

Your supposed to use synthetic all the time[QUOTE=elementalpuck]I always change the oil every 3,000 and I got this new in 01/06 so I have taken care of it myself. I live in PHX and so the air is always on High. When I stop at a light the idle goes down real low and though it's mild the car shakes a little and you think it will die, but it doesn't. When driving at night the headlights dim when the A/C goes on (more significant than normal). It seems to run better right after an oil change. Also, it seems not to have as much get up and go when its hot, this is a new one. Is this just expected as it gets older or should I do something like flush the radiator or start using synthetic oil, maybe buy a better battery? I know that it shouldn't need anything for 100k, but... The odd thing is that it gets BETTER gas mileage now than ever. I got 39 mpg on a recent trip to Utah. Last...I have replaced both visors 3 times. Anyone know how to make these crappy things last?


IF you dont when you take your car for warranty work, if they ask you for past reciepts of your oil changes they will void your warranty,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elementalpuck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always change the oil every 3,000 and I got this new in 01/06 so I have taken care of it myself. I live in PHX and so the air is always on High. When I stop at a light the idle goes down real low and though it's mild the car shakes a little and you think it will die, but it doesn't. When driving at night the headlights dim when the A/C goes on (more significant than normal). It seems to run better right after an oil change. Also, it seems not to have as much get up and go when its hot, this is a new one. Is this just expected as it gets older or should I do something like flush the radiator or start using synthetic oil, maybe buy a better battery? I know that it shouldn't need anything for 100k, but... The odd thing is that it gets BETTER gas mileage now than ever. I got 39 mpg on a recent trip to Utah. Last...I have replaced both visors 3 times. Anyone know how to make these crappy things last?
Modified by elementalpuck at 11:38 AM 7/31/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

my car has done exactly that since day one... I live in north carolina (humid heat) you live in arizona ( i assume dry heat). the second you get a humid day youll feel it... remember if you didnt change the a/c settings everytime your climate control is on the defroster your a/c will be too. (even though the a/c light isnt on.) i forget how to fix that its archived on this site somewhere...



Modified by civic1234 at 8:37 AM 8/1/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100miles+ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your supposed to use synthetic all the time

IF you dont when you take your car for warranty work, if they ask you for past reciepts of your oil changes they will void your warranty, </TD></TR></TABLE>

what're you smoking man? honda doesn't recommend synthetic. i've heard heard of a warranty ever being voided by not having oil change receipts. check your facts.

 

Bought car brand new the other week and it drops idle sometimes. Figure its normal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100miles+ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your supposed to use synthetic all the time </TD></TR></TABLE>



A honda 4 banger will last 300,000 miles with proper maintenance with regular oil, synthetic is not mandatory on a honda (except for that new turbo acura SUV, which I believe requires synthetic).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elementalpuck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always change the oil every 3,000 and I got this new in 01/06 so I have taken care of it myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

3,000 on synthetic? You are wasing good oil if you are changing it out that early. Dino oil can go 5k miles & synthetic can go anywhere from 7.5k to 20k miles depending on what brand you get.

 

The battery died and I had it replaced by WalMart when I had the oil changed. I assume all batteries are equal. Is there a difference...and is there a better battery that I should have bought?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vladd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what're you smoking man? honda doesn't recommend synthetic. i've heard heard of a warranty ever being voided by not having oil change receipts. check your facts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you have never owned a VW or Audi. It can happen. The turbo engines on some models had sludge issues that VW/Audi extended the warranty for, but if it looked like the oil was not changed at all, or rarely and the owner did not have reciepts for an oil change being done, there was the chance of having the warranty claim bounced by the mfg.

That said, you probably wouldn't run into much issues with Honda. Unless you were grossly negligent in the care of the car, or it was clearly abused, and even then it would be hard to prove anything. Honda does not reccomend synthetic oil, it is not necessary to use it, and the newer models are indeed going up to 5k miles or more between oil changes.

Be careful with cheap batteries, they can be junk. Not saying all, but I have seen a few cheap aftermarket batteries fail too soon after being installed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piscorpio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Then you have never owned a VW or Audi. It can happen. The turbo engines on some models had sludge issues that VW/Audi extended the warranty for, but if it looked like the oil was not changed at all, or rarely and the owner did not have reciepts for an oil change being done, there was the chance of having the warranty claim bounced by the mfg.

That said, you probably wouldn't run into much issues with Honda. Unless you were grossly negligent in the care of the car, or it was clearly abused, and even then it would be hard to prove anything. Honda does not reccomend synthetic oil, it is not necessary to use it, and the newer models are indeed going up to 5k miles or more between oil changes.

Be careful with cheap batteries, they can be junk. Not saying all, but I have seen a few cheap aftermarket batteries fail too soon after being installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, we're talking about honda's here; i don't know about every manufacturer out there. i've just never ever heard of a honda getting its warranty voided for not having oil change receipts. as for oil change interval, on my 99 integra the recommended interval was 7k miles for normal driving, i imagine the newer cars are even longer.

 

when you turn on the a/c, it sucks your power like no other. feels like goin from a regular civic to a geo metro by the push of a button hahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i-VTEC_DOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you turn on the a/c, it sucks your power like no other. feels like goin from a regular civic to a geo metro by the push of a button hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahahh!

yeah all my hondas do the idle drop dim light thing when the compressor kicks on. its normal ..........except the RR

 

the sound system is killing your alternator & battery.

 

You are wasting your money on the oil changes.

I live in the Valley also and keep the A/C on full blast when its 95+. My experience is that when I come to stops I have to keep the rpms up to 1000 so the AC continues to blow clod air. I too notice that the headlights go dim briefly when the compressor comes on. My vehicle has 18,000 miles on it. I think the AC compressor needs a smaller pulley and the electrical system needs a capacitor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100miles+ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your supposed to use synthetic all the time.

IF you dont when you take your car for warranty work, if they ask you for past reciepts of your oil changes they will void your warranty, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, great way to spread erroneous information! Who says you are supposed to use synthetic? What about the guy who changes his own oil?

Believe it or not conventional motor oil when changed at prescribed intervals will provide comparable protection to synthetic. The benefits of using synthetic oil on street driven cars are; slight gain in fuel economy and extended drain intervals.

I use amsoil synthetic oil and drain it at 5000 miles send it off to micro filtered and at the next interval it goes right back in. This continues until oil analysis says the oil is done.


Modified by Kidnkorner at 3:36 PM 8/2/2008

 

damn, well i can def relate to the visor issue, my passenger side broke last week and i only went to fold it up and CRACK!! Now i gotta get another one this is some bs. I love the car but it seems to be built poorly, alot of little things have gone wrong with mine since ive gotten it. Hell they had to replace all my passenger air bags and sensor ****. It just went out one day on its own?? wtf how does that happen now really??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kidnkorner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are wasting your money on the oil changes.

I live in the Valley also and keep the A/C on full blast when its 95+. My experience is that when I come to stops I have to keep the rpms up to 1000 so the AC continues to blow clod air. I too notice that the headlights go dim briefly when the compressor comes on. My vehicle has 18,000 miles on it. I think the AC compressor needs a smaller pulley and the electrical system needs a capacitor.
Modified by Kidnkorner at 3:36 PM 8/2/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried that the other day and my a/c still blew out not so cold air at a traffic light... my car seems to only blow cold a/c when im moving... ive tried max and regular ac.

whats the trick with the rpms... is that supposed to keep the compressor going?

sorry for the thread jack...

 

hmm, my si doesn't do this, atleast to a noticeable effect.

it blows cold at idle, and it doesn't idle low with the a/c on.

the rpm target the ecu has when the a/c engaged is actually supposed to be HIGHER than w/o, to compensate.

for real.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alex_G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3,000 on synthetic? You are wasing good oil if you are changing it out that early. Dino oil can go 5k miles & synthetic can go anywhere from 7.5k to 20k miles depending on what brand you get.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i'd say it while it does depend on brand, it also depends on tune and driving habits/environment.

but yeah, amen to using realistic intervals. i go 7500 between changes on my ms3 using redline. the si gets honda oil at the dash computer's interval.

people fail to realize the 3000 miles thing isn't necessarily ideal anymore for modern engines using modern oil.



Modified by builthatch at 10:25 PM 8/26/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, my si doesn't do this, atleast to a noticeable effect.

it blows cold at idle, and it doesn't idle low with the a/c on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2, and we live in humid (except for the past couple weeks ) New Jersey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I tried that the other day and my a/c still blew out not so cold air at a traffic light... my car seems to only blow cold a/c when im moving... ive tried max and regular ac.

whats the trick with the rpms... is that supposed to keep the compressor going?

sorry for the thread jack... </TD></TR></TABLE>

you give it gas in neutral

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zeusone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you give it gas in neutral</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah

 

check your throttle body for carbon build up wich will lower your idle do to lack of air, if build up is noticable then grab your self of a good-o-carb cleaner can and a old toothbrush and clean the throttle body, also check the air filter.
much luck to ya

 

Mine has a tiny squeal. I think the belt or pulley;s need some lube action.