Hello,

I am interested in buying some 12.2" Wilwood brakes for my Civic. As I was upgrading my front brakes i thought I would upgrade my back brakes. I currently have 94-01 9.5" rear discs in the back. I was wondering if say, the 11" Wilwood kit would fit on the rear brakes.

So Im talking about kit number 140-6310 for the front

and 140-8695 in the back if they fit.

And future reference, do they fit under buddy club sf challenge in 16s?

Thanks a bunch
Matt

 

Do you have a show car? Winning shows are really the only thing a big brake kit will help you do with a civic. Our cars are so light, as long as you have performance rotors and pads, stainless steel lines, and DOT4 brake fluid, you have more than enough stopping power. You really don't need to waste your money on a kit.

 

I agree. Stick with OEM brakes with upgraded rotors, pads, lines and DOT 4 fluid. Save yourself about a thousand dollars.

 

I see, I appreciate you guys trying to save me some money. But Im trying to figure out if they actually just fit. Then the decision of purchasing them being worth it or not will come along later.


Anyways, anyone know if they will fit on rear?

Thanks
Matt

 

what offset are ur wheels?
the rears will fit no problems...

i have a 12.2 bbk in the front as well. also looking to get the 11.1" in the back soon.

the thing about wilwood(or most kits) is that their calipers are wider than stock (17CL14VN calipers ex/si/gsr).
a +40mm offset wheel might still hit the wilwood caliper depending on the spoke design. if ur wheels cant clear the caliper, there's always the option of running wheel spacers

 

So the 11" ones <U>are</U> for the back. If I do install them, does this remove the use of the hand brake?

The wheels Im getting are

16x7
42 offset

 

Bump!

 

dont waste money on big brake kit. unless u are racing your car on the track. and stock brake is good enough for daily drive. just get some nice rotors and high friction pads..ss brake lines..

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a show car? Winning shows are really the only thing a big brake kit will help you do with a civic. Our cars are so light, as long as you have performance rotors and pads, stainless steel lines, and DOT4 brake fluid, you have more than enough stopping power. You really don't need to waste your money on a kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

People keep saying this and its so not true, couple years ago I had a 94 ex with a turbo b16. gsr brakes on all 4's with gsr prop valve, ITR master cylinder earls SS brake lines and hawk pads on all 4's.

the calipers were autozone re-manufactured GSR's. only thing that wasn't perfect was the fluid, I was running just walmart brake fluid which I cant see making that big of a difference, the car would not stop quick at ALL. I have a backroad near me, that is so smooth long and straight that you cant help but get up to around 80 and I have to start braking about 300 feet before I get to the light. or I would run right thru it.

People give the same advice on the 240sx boards Good pads, fluid etc. that's BS too. I have an s14 and I upgraded to 13" 350z track rotors, and 4 piston 300zx calipers with a custom bracket. one front rotor has to weigh freakin 20 lbs,but the car stops like a damn porsche.

 

If you're not running good fluid you might as well not be running good brakes. The fluid IS the brake system, its the single most important component of the system.

I have Galfer DOT4 fluid, Goodridge SS lines, EBC Greenstuff pads, EBC ultimax slotted rotors, LS rear discs with an SI prop valve and my stock brake MC/booster, and I outbrake my buddy in his GTI when he has his Hawk Race compound pads on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're not running good fluid you might as well not be running good brakes. The fluid IS the brake system, its the single most important component of the system.

I have Galfer DOT4 fluid, Goodridge SS lines, EBC Greenstuff pads, EBC ultimax slotted rotors, LS rear discs with an SI prop valve and my stock brake MC/booster, and I outbrake my buddy in his GTI when he has his Hawk Race compound pads on the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok so then I could run Dx brakes and the best fluid out there and stop on a dime from 100mph right?

First of all the Single most important component in the brake system is the tires. which in my case were the bfg geforce sports. a very highly rated dry performance tire FYI. if anything the TIRE is the braking system as its the only part of the car in contact with the road. the difference between cheap fluid and hi perf is just the boiling point . if I was tracking my car where the fluid temps become outrageous, obviously walmart fluid wouldnt be sufficient. there isnt a brake fluid out there that would have made my car brake any better from 80-0

Brake fluid pushes the pistons out. allowing the pad to bite into the rotor. it doesn't make your tires grip any harder or make your rotor not overheat, which are the very reasons a car doesn't stop well. Civic rotors are undersized and overheat easily. when rotors overheat you get fade, when you get fade the car doesn't stop. bigger rotors have more surface area thus taking longer to get to the point where it can cause fade and become ineffective.




Modified by Boostage at 1:27 PM 8/1/2008

 

I'm saying that running an entirely upgraded brake system with POS fluid is exactly like running dx brakes with regular brake fluid. I ran my brakes on autozone DOT3 fluid, and after braking for one corner on the street, I glazed my front brakes and boiled all my fluid, so yeah, the difference is boiling point, but boiling point determines when you stop, and when you hit something.

But go ahead, spend thousands of dollars on big brake kits, I won't stop you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm saying that running an entirely upgraded brake system with POS fluid is exactly like running dx brakes with regular brake fluid. I ran my brakes on autozone DOT3 fluid, and after braking for one corner on the street, I glazed my front brakes and boiled all my fluid, so yeah, the difference is boiling point, but boiling point determines when you stop, and when you hit something.

But go ahead, spend thousands of dollars on big brake kits, I won't stop you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all the OP didn't ask about Rotoras or baer's or any of the Elite BBK's. has asked about Wilwoods which are $500 not "thousands of dollars"

secondly the Wilwood kit has a few Advantages.

The calipers are lighter
the Rotor's are lighter

on both accounts you are reducing unsprung weight which helps handling AND drum roll.. braking

the other advantage is 12 inches of rotor, which provides more leverage. the further the caliper is away from the center of the wheel is the more braking leverage it will have picture this.

you have a mountain bike. with a standard 26" tire. you flip it upside down and spin the front wheel as fast as possible. what do you think would stop it faster?

braking from 3 inches from the center of the wheel or braking from about 2 inches shy of the tire?

 

ive ran with race brake pads, slotted rotors and ss lines Dot 4 fluid with a si prop valve and master cylinder and then i changed to wilwoods and they do work better. And the wilwood kit is lighters then the old set up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Abius &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the 11" ones <U>are</U> for the back. If I do install them, does this remove the use of the hand brake?

The wheels Im getting are

16x7
42 offset
</TD></TR></TABLE>

after checking the part numbers in your first post. i came to realize that the 11" kit is made for the front.
so ur actually trying to make a front brake kit work in the rear?
its doable if u can live without the ebrake and if u can fab a bracket for the wilwood calipers. the front caliper bracket mounting points are further apart than the rear so a custom rear bracket is a must.
i dont think wilwood makes a rear kit for honda/acura. but anything's doable with some work and money.
btw, your +42mm offset wheel WILL hit the calipers. u will need spacers.

there's other brake options for the rear like the EP3 brake swap. it upgrades our rears into the 10.2" using ep3 rear rotors and calipers
if u need more info on this pm BrakeExpert.


i think this setup is what ur trying to get at. ebrake caliper. check. big honkin caliper. check



Modified by battle951sedan at 11:57 AM 8/1/2008

 

Alright cool, thanks for all the replies guys.

Yes intially I thought both 12.2 amd 11 inch kits fit on the front, but then thought maybe the 12.2 was for the front and the 11 was for the back. Im just wondering if the 11 inch ones would fit in the rear.

ITs pretty lame, Wilwood site is down, cant refer to some part numbers.

But if I do somehow fit the 11s in the back, I would no longer be able to use my hand brake?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by battle951sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

.
btw, your +42mm offset wheel WILL hit the calipers. u will need spacers.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this for both 12.2 and the 11 or just the 12.2?

Thanks
Matt

 

Working Bump!

 

Bump!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Abius &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But if I do somehow fit the 11s in the back, I would no longer be able to use my hand brake?

Thanks
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pay attention. yes you will lose ebrake, but as stated above you can use a system similar to the porsche in the picture above. Wilwood sells a tiny dynalite calpier that can be used as an ebrake.


if you can fab up a bracket and figure out how to run the ebrake line to it Im sure it will work.

 

Ok, thats what I thought.

Well I guess I have to stick with upgrading the front to Wilwoods. Ill have to look into the EP3 brake upgrade


But as for the 11" kit, will that fit under a 16 inch rim no problem?

 

You can easily run 15s over 11" brakes. As long as your offset isn't something crazy.

 

like i said, the wilwood calipers are thicker/wider.
your +42mm offset rims will not clear the calipers. u need spacers. the 12.2" and 11" kits use almost if not the same caliper so no dice in the back either even if u find a way to mount those calipers. what u need are spacers. at least 10mm ones.
how do i know? because i bought volk te16 +42mm offset rims before off a guy who has wilwood brakes. it des not clear the caliper without using spacers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by battle951sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like i said, the wilwood calipers are thicker/wider.
your +42mm offset rims will not clear the calipers. u need spacers. the 12.2" and 11" kits use almost if not the same caliper so no dice </TD></TR></TABLE>


The calipers are the same part number hence they will be the same size. So even with an 11 inch big brake system, will it clear the those rims horizontally? It seems in the diagram of the 11inch kit that it sits a bit deeper into the car on the hub...

Anyone running this setup:

11" inch front
16 Buddy Clubs SF Challenge

Thanks
Abius

PS. Any companies that make rear kits for Hondas?

 

TTT