Well I ordered new rotors from from a well known place and put them on. After installing them I got on the highway and lightly tapped the brakes going 70... it felt like my steering wheel was going to fall apart.. it was clear that these new rotors I bought are warped. I was kind of mad so I called the place I bought them from and they said it was caused from me not breaking the rotors in.. I guess you have to brake 100 dollar rotors in the same way you brake in a 3000 dollar motor.. so I took the rotors off to get them turned. One was warped so badly they had to turn it twice.. anyways I called the company again to tell them I had to turn the rotor twice and he gets his panty's in a bundle and calls me a F ing Dumba$$ and a low life.. now that's customer service!!!

Has anyone broke in rotors before??? I never have, I just get in my car and drive.. I personally think they sold me junk rotors and blamed it on me saying I did not brake them in. What do you think?


Modified by akkord94 at 2:56 PM 7/30/2008


Modified by akkord94 at 2:57 PM 7/30/2008

 

anyone?? i post it here cause i thought i would get alot of feedback

 

new or not, you must re-surface the rotors before installing them. then after installation, be gentle with braking for the first couple hundred miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TOEnail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new or not, you must re-surface the rotors before installing them. then after installation, be gentle with braking for the first couple hundred miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Neither of these are necessarily true.

Most rotors claim to be straight right out of the box, and while you'll occasionally get an untrue one, having to turn a brand new rotor on the lathe is unacceptable.

Being gentle with the brakes for a break-in period is rubbish. When I put new pads and rotors on my own car, I always do a pad bedding procedure immediately to get a good layer of friction material transferred the rotors and get over the green fade period for the pads. You don't have to do this, especially if you drive mildly all the time, but it gets everything working consistently right off the bat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akkord94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I called the company again to tell them I had to turn the rotor twice and he gets his panty's in a bundle and calls me a F ing Dumba$$ and a low life.. now that's customer service!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. That's so off-the-wall that I get the feeling we're missing some other details of this conversation

 

get ur money back son!!!!!!!!

 

Don't buy from 88rotor.. my f ing breaks squeak now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akkord94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't buy from 88rotor.. my f ing breaks squeak now</TD></TR></TABLE>
Brake squeals are not caused by the vendor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Being gentle with the brakes for a break-in period is rubbish. When I put new pads and rotors on my own car, I always do a pad bedding procedure immediately to get a good layer of friction material transferred the rotors and get over the green fade period for the pads. You don't have to do this, especially if you drive mildly all the time, but it gets everything working consistently right off the bat.


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