i have a few questions in regaurds to a 1991 ef civic d16a6.
i am about to replace a bad tps sensor, throttle position sensor.
i will need to calibrate it correctly but i have a few questions about it.
i do know how to take it off and put it back on the tb but the calibration, not too sure about the numbers.

*please answer these with the assumption the tps and tb is off the engine and on a work bench.*

whats the proper volts its supposed to be?
whats the proper ohms?

what happends if the ohms or volts is over a little from oem recommended?

what happends if the ohms or volts is under a little from oem recommended?

there are a bunch of brands out there.
are they any different from each other?
is one better then another basically? (quality wise)



Modified by 949 at 1:00 PM 7/26/2008

 

You need the tps secure onto the throttle body, you also need it plugged in.
You also need the key 2 clicks forward.
Also at closed throttle move the tps till its reaches 0.4-0.5 volts is fine.
Then at wide open throttle should read 4.0-5.0 volts.
Im actually about to do mine again.
I find it easier to have the throttle body off but with the tps still hooked up.

 

which wires am i tapping into to get the readings?

if you have the red and black from the mulitmeter, which terminals do i tap at the tps?

 

red is your power wire,green is ground and yleow wire fluactes.


when setting it u a volts meter turn it on 12 volts set the black wire of the meter on the gorund for the batt.take the red wire and stick it in the yellow wire and gentely tap the tps right or left it

 

possibly this is why im not getting a reading on mine. I was sticking the red probe into the red wire.

 

i found this youtube video with dr. charles installing a new skunk 2 throttle body along with transfering the tps.

he does with the throttle body off the car. he uses ohms instead of volts.

the only thing is that this is for an integra so the ohms are different then my civic.

since my tps is damaged i dont trust the ohm readings its giving me right now.
so if anyone has the ohm numbers please let me know.

if your not sure what i mean by ohms, you will understand what i mean by ohms when you watch the whole video.

here is the video on how to do it.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=ukP...lated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by traxxasx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need the tps secure onto the throttle body, you also need it plugged in.
You also need the key 2 clicks forward.
Also at closed throttle move the tps till its reaches 0.4-0.5 volts is fine.
Then at wide open throttle should read 4.0-5.0 volts.
Im actually about to do mine again.
I find it easier to have the throttle body off but with the tps still hooked up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what happends if your off a bit? like if it sits at .2 or .7 at closed
what happens at idle?

 

i just did the calibration. now the idle just drops dead. i increased the air control adjuster and it doesnt do anything.

when i hit a stop light it just dies out.

whats going on now???

 

anyone with any experience with this problem?

 

I'm seriously wondering what kind of side effects come from just putting on a TPS.......

I broke the one off my A6 throttle body and then I grabbed one from a Y8 throttle body and put it on the A6, no calibrating, I just eye balled it and screwed it on, car runs fine, idles fine, mileage is fine.....

 

A tps will not make a car die, i drove fine for 4 months with no tps.
Make sure your idle is around 600-800 and check for vaccum leaks.
Also clean your iacv. Make sure your vaccum lines are hooked up correct also.

 

so what's the purpose of calibrating it? Serious question.

drawing enough current?? lol

 

summary:

here is what has been done so far.

ever since i put the engine back together the idle happened. before it all the parts worked and nothing was broken. the idle was just perfect before i removed the engine.

symptoms, the idle will be kinda higher then normal. when i adjust it, it will bounce and roller coaster up and down. then eventually it stalls out. i can restart but it will do it again. the roller coaster only happends after it either warms up or i gas it a little and release it.

i removed the aicv and cleaned it with brake cleaner. cleaned it out the metal screen. replanced the o ring in there so it will have a new secure fit.
tested the aicv with the cars battery, placed it on there and the little motor moved. not sure how much its supposed to have moved but it did. so i assume that it is working properly.

i removed and cleaned the fitv. also replaced the o ring to just to make sure it is ok.
nothing here to test out really. or at least i know of.

i then checked to see if there is any leak. i used the brake cleaner can and spraying generously around connections and parts that mated up to anything that was linked to the intake manifold. as far as i know i am supposed to look for things like fluctuation of the idle. i saw nothing change. im not sure if im spraying at all the correct places so it might not be the best test.

then i replaced the pcv valve. that did make a small change. but after a run on the road the symptoms came back but a little less.
its a pcv valve from kragen.


then i was told to test the tps sensor by removing the plug. if the idle was stable then its the tps sensor. it did stable out. so i thought its the tps.
i bought a blox tps sensor from ebay. i put it in. i just calibrated it. the idle now just drops. after i start it up it will idle low like how i like it then after i gas it, it just stalls out. if i drive and try to keep it up by feathering the gas it will just stall out. sometimes it keeps it level for a few sec but it will stall out again.

so now im lost. i thought if there is a lose hose the idle will just jump up. but the idle just stall out. its stalls out too early that the bouncing doesnt have time to start, but i dont think its been resolved.