I'm in the process of tearing the top end apart to get to the timing belt, but the distributor is not turning when cranking, and the distributor appears to turn freely when in my hand. So, most likely the T-belt took a crap on me. My question is with the H22 being an interference motor, can you get lucky and not bend a set of valves?

My plan is to get the new t-belt installed, get it ready to fire, and do a compression check, before taking the head removal route.

Any other suggestions at this point?

 

you can get lucky, i know someone who knows someone who got lucky.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DVS Luder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get lucky, i know someone who knows someone who got lucky.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your odds are about 1/ 500 lol....seriously it normally does some sort of damage to the valvetrain when the belt breaks

 

Usually depends on the engine speed when the belt broke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m00nr0ck Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

your odds are about 1/ 500 lol....seriously it normally does some sort of damage to the valvetrain when the belt breaks</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly lol...that why i dont know anyone personally. only someone i know who knows someone.

 

I read somewhere that an H22 is only an interference motor when it is on the low cam, not on the high or VTEC cam . I am not saying that I know this is a fact, I just read it I believe it was on H-T somewhere. ???

http://www.preludeonline.com/f...95783/


there.

 

Engine speed was ~3500, about 62 or 63 mph, just died. The belt must have gotten loose on me, as it ate the teeth off the belt down by the crankshaft. It did not actually break, but I'm sure the timing was off.

 

You can bet on bent valves. The only time valves don't break from a broken belt is if the engine is at idle or just above.

 

At 7k rpms I just bent every single valve in my head.

For your own sake, you might be fine if you were in netural.

 

Too much speculation going on here....How many of you have broken a belt before?
Kevin, rip is apart and let us know....I am curious now. I hate when peole throw random numbers out there.....1/500!!! So only 1 person out of 500 wouldn't have an issue with bent valves? Cmon guys......
Also, what valves are you using? Stock? That may be an issue but who knows.....
If it doesn't sound like a diesel....you may have just cupped a few of them. Which still means the head is coming off.....sucks! Time to build a head man!!!

 

I have not been lucky enough yet to break a belt so what I posted was simply something I remember reading b4. And yes ,the internals(cams,valves etc.)would have an effect on the end results. However, most of us probably stay above 5000RPM anyway so if it was true, it wouldn"t save our a$$e$ anyway, would it?

 

I have came upon 7 broken belts on H22/h23's personally from local prelude guys in the past 6 years or so. Only 4 of which bent valves... Very uncharacteristic of the H, but you can get lucky. And I have witnessed it more than most.

Do a leakdown test first thing. Thats a great way to figure it out before you go to all the trouble of putting a new belt on it. Use a very easy method Ive been using for years and it should make it easier than replacing the belt to do a compression test.

Just align the crank at TDC (via screwdriver/dowel in cyl 1 or by flywheel) and mark every 90 degrees from UP on the pulley with a white out pen or similar. Should look like a crosshair when done. That will help you quickly align the crank for a proper leakdown without tearing the pulley off. It much quicker than pulling the belts, pulley, belt, and cover for me. Then, all you have to do is pull the valve cover and spark plugs. I can do a full leakdown on a busted belt motor in under 15 minutes this way. It takes longer to get the crank pulley bolt off for most people.

 

I've already got the belts off, so how would I do a leak down with the cams out of time? I think my best bet is to get the new belts on, timed correctly, and do a compression test, without putting anything back on the side or top of the motor. And cross my fingers......I didn't hear the "marbles in a can" this time when it quit. It just went dead as if I shut the key off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JTCdudeman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have came upon 7 broken belts on H22/h23's personally from local prelude guys in the past 6 years or so. Only 4 of which bent valves... Very uncharacteristic of the H, but you can get lucky. And I have witnessed it more than most.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

3/7 w/o bent valves is a far cry from the 1/500 that the brainiac above stated.....
I wonder what happened though......I know you rebuilt the motor a few years ago and assume you did a belt and tensioner.....How many miles were on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3/7 w/o bent valves is a far cry from the 1/500 that the brainiac above stated.....
I wonder what happened though......I know you rebuilt the motor a few years ago and assume you did a belt and tensioner.....How many miles were on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

brainiac.....I am by no means saying that a honda engine cant survive a timing belt breaking ,but I have yet to see one ....my numbers 1/500 may be a little outrageous but I was trying to make a point that its not very likely that his H22 made it without bending a valve , chipping,etc....



Modified by m00nr0ck Si at 8:22 PM 7/28/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've already got the belts off, so how would I do a leak down with the cams out of time? I think my best bet is to get the new belts on, timed correctly, and do a compression test, without putting anything back on the side or top of the motor. And cross my fingers......I didn't hear the "marbles in a can" this time when it quit. It just went dead as if I shut the key off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am sorry. I get ahead of myself sometimes and assume people know more about these things than they actually do.

You must put the cams in appropriate time with the crankshaft. Use your helms manual(dl if you have too) to see which cylinder to do the leakdown in. Just refer to the valve lash guide and set the cams and crank like they are in time with each other and test each cylinder. For example, leakdown test cylinder 1 with cams and crank up at TDC. Rotate both cams and the crank 90 degrees counterclockwise and test cylinder 3. 1,3,4,2 just like a Dizzy rotates and every 90 degrees. It ensures the valves are closed and the piston is at the top of its cycle which is when combustion occurs in that particular cylinder. Does it make sense?

 

[QUOTE=m00nr0ck Si]

brainiac.....I am by no means saying that a honda engine cant survive a timing belt breaking ,but I have yet to see one ....my numbers 1/500 may be a little outrageous but I was trying to make a point that its not very likely that his H22 made it without bending a valve , chipping,etc....


~~My JDM GSR made it through a timing belt snap with no problems what-so-ever. I was running crower stage 2 camshafts and skunk2 dual valvesprings/ titanium retainers at the time as well. Driving down the freeway at 75 mph in 5th gear, at about 4k rpms car just turns OFF on me. I get off the nearest off ramp, pop my hood, notice nothing, give it a few cranks and finally I see the broken belt (piece of **** OEM HONDA parts ). Happy to say I just put on another belt, fired it up, and except for the fact that I over tightned my belt and it whined, everything was straight. I'd say you might be as lucky as me...

 

I'm in the process of doing it too. my timing belt broke on me going to the track,I was at 2500rpm at 60mph. my belt was shredded. Theres like hair stuff when i took off the cover. I'm almost done, I already put the belt, I just need to put the alternator belt and then the valve cover. I hope theres no bent valves on me, thats my stage2 skunk2 drivetrain. I should've convert it to manual tensioner. Your going to need a tool for your auto tensioner if you haven't converted yours. part # 14540-P13-003 its like 14bucks at honda, or you could rent one in some shops. good luck. and wish me luck too.lol.

 

Wow, sounds like I have a chance to get lucky here. Thanks for the helpful responses.

JTCdudeman, I understand exactly what you are talking about. Just a little green on some of the terminology at times. Yes, I have a helms manual, or the Honda Service book if that is the same, with all the details. New belts have been ordered, and awaiting delivery. I will do exactly what you (And the book) explains to see if I can get lucky.

Clint, yes, I put in the manual tensioner, and I thought I had been hearing a little belt "slap" on some lighter accellerations over the past 2-3 months, and just delayed doing the inspection. I used a stock Honda belt, and am again. The belt that let go lost about 6 inches of cogs, but ALL the cogs were worn and looking ready to let go. It was just a matter of time on this belt. My father seems to think the belt got loose, which makes perfect sense, because I never adjusted it. 85,000 miles since rebuilt. Whoops.

I did put in Crower Stage 2 cams, springs and retainers, so I'm guessing the tighter springs but a little more stress on the belt. I will be inspecting yearly, if I luck out this time.

Cross your fingers all!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DUHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=m00nr0ck Si]
(piece of **** OEM HONDA parts : </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a ridiculous NOOB statement.....Plenty of Boost guys have made over 600whp with ALOT of OEM Honda parts......timing belts, water pumps, gaskets.....The list goes on. PAPA made it into the 8's with more OEM parts than some people run here on 13sec cars.
OEM parts are made for the LONG HAUL so as you add power it just makes sense that it would lower longevity......


Modified by NirVTEC at 9:52 AM 8/4/2008

 

I got mine running today, no bend valves, runs like a champ again. goodluck bro on yours. now i need a new rear bumper.lol! (cop pushed me to get to the gas station)

 

[QUOTE=NirVTEC][QUOTE=DUHC][QUOTE=m00nr0ck Si]
(piece of **** OEM HONDA parts : <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats a ridiculous NOOB statement.....Plenty of Boost guys have made over 600whp with ALOT of OEM Honda parts......timing belts, water pumps, gaskets.....The list goes on. PAPA made it into the 8's with more OEM parts than some people run here on 13sec cars.
OEM parts are made for the LONG HAUL so as you add power it just makes sense that it would lower longevity......</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know of a 9 second hotrod Civic here in my town that actually still used the autotensioner and stock cams.Stock parts don't suck noobs do


JJ Spec Racing 478-621-5000

 

I'd really like to find out the answer here, as this just happened to me. I was cruising in 5th gear going about 60 when it just cut off, so kept trying to restart it, even downshifting and letting the clutch out when the key did nothing. I actually had Honda replace it 16k miles ago, so I'm thinking its got to be the autotensioner. Anyway, its sitting at the dealer now, while I'm trying to get Honda to pay for it. If they screw me, though, I'm hoping to fix it for as little as possible, before I drop 4 grand to put a Type-S in there.

I had assumed my valves were gone as soon as the belt snapped, but it would be nice to find out otherwise!

 

Can you confirm that the belt snapped.

Walking into the Dealer Not Knowing whats really happening is as bad as walking alone a cliff edge blindfolded

 

I can let you all know, I got the belts back on, presumably correct, because a compression test revealed 170, 165, 163, 170. Sounds like I got lucky!

I have a slight difference there in numbers, but how close to what it should be are these numbers? Plan now is to put it back together and drive it. I may not get to it for a couple weeks, as I have some other things to tend to, but I'd say, NO BENT VALVES at this point......Any other input?