okay here is the story. I just got 02 Si Wheels for my Ef hatch. When i put them on i bought brand new black lugs for my hatch. i proably put about 200 miles on the new rims and tires and i started getting this bad vibration in the front. come to find out that the one stud sheared off, one lug was missing and the other 2 were very lose. I did put them on tight, pretty much the same as i normally torque them. So i decided to go back with my orginal lugs that i had on my steelies for my hatch. i put them on, proably got about 10 miles down the road and the tire falls off... WTF!!! at this point right... So my questions are- Are there special lugs for this year rims? thats what i have dwindled it down too. the lug isnt too short for the stud, i just think its not making the rims seat right and they come lose or some how breaks studs while driving. Anyone have anything? im getting frustrated... and i still cant find my wheel

 

It sounds like those 'black' lugs you got were to fit the 30* lug mating surface of alot of aftermarket wheels. I haven't seen any OEM honda wheels that need that kind of lug. so you probably had about 15-20% of your lug nut seating area actually putting load on the wheel... thus why it walked down the thread. When you put the oem lug nuts on the studs were probably beyond what the safe limit of wear is.

Sounds like now you need to do front studs. Should probably do wheel bearings when your at it.

 

well the black lugs were pretty much identical to the honda oem lugs. they werent "tuner lugs" or anything... ummm as for how many threads it should be on the stud... isnt it like 7 or 8 or something i dont really remember. I thought to replace the studs you just have the stud you want vertical down smack it out, spin the hub, smack the next one out... so on and so on. but if i do have to remove the entire hub, yes i will replace the wheel beartings.

 

also... so by saying that the wheels are shearing my studs off... is that saying that the studs arent long enough?

 

the amount of threas on the stud i don't know, they should be intact tho. and if your lug nuts were tight but the stud wasn't holding in the hub, then you need to replace your studs. Post pics of said wheel and hub assembly.

 

okay i will eventually post some pictures proably tonight or tomorrow... im at work right now..

 

just closely look at the mating surfaces of the wheel and lug nut...you should be able to see the issue. also, get a $20 torque wrench or something. that's the only real way to put them on and to tell if they will hold. you need all 4 studs in place with nuts

 

ha yeah i have a 200 dollar torque wrech (digtial craftsman, i only rock craftsman anything other then that is just too dayum expensive) but yeah i can do that... and get 2 miles down the road wheel falls off again i will be pissed

 

the oem wheels have a ball seat and almost all aftermarket wheels use a taper seat. you have taper seat lugs and they obviously dont seat right, the only black lugs that will fit honda wheels are off the special edition nsx or s2000 that came with them stock and they are not cheap

 

so you think this could be my problem... taper v.s. ball seat..

 

Also could have been that he didnt tighten the rims down enough in the air and then over tightened em when it was on the ground and the rims were not seated evenly.

 

I tightened them the way i have been doing them for 5 years now... and never had any problem... i just think its the lugs at this point... i didnt do anything diffrent then i normally do and then when i got these wheels all these problems start... i used the black lugs b/c they looked good and then found that one stud was sheard off and one was missing and the other 2 lose... then went back to the stock lugs... and then thats when i drove proably 10 miles and then the tire falls off on the opposite side...

 

You need to replace all of the studs on the hub that had a broken stud, and it wouldn't be a bad idea on the other side.

I can't remember for sure, but generally steel wheels have a different type of lug nut than aluminum wheels.

 

you will have to pull it apart to change the studs, there is no way of "smacking" them out with out ruining something. There is also a brake dust shield in the way not to mention that the geometry of the hub will not let the studs just come throguh.

 

Maybe you should just go to the junkyard and get yourself a fresh set of hubs and some stock lugnuts man. If it's good enough to last 250,000 miles why would you change it?

 

yeah i have a nice stock pile of hubs and spindles i could just swap integra **** in there b/c thats pretty much all i have...

so i do have to pull the entire hub and **** out to replace the studs what a b****... i thought it was to rotate the hub vertical down and smack one out at a time..

 

no, i have broken 2 studs and stripped 2 of them before(dont ask how!) and i just did my bearings and studs. But then walmart stripped a new one and ghetto fixed it(dont ask why i took my car there... )

 

haha your not wanting me to ask any questions are you... ahaa... alright...

 

the rear hubs you can easily get the studs out of. The front requires a press and some work.

op, please stop pming me to reply to your thread. when i read it i will get to it.

 

Well i dont know if your watching this thread or not... so i figured i would ask you to reply.. ha

 

okay i just replaced that entire spindle, lca with my integra stuff found out that the civic and integra lca is diffrent, but thats fine b/c i just got the innovative traction bar and found that there radial bar is compatiable with both lca's. so thats fine with me. before i go any farther and drive this car and the rims fall off again, i want some more advise. my lugz look good to use on them rims, tappered on the end of the lug, tapered inside the hole area. so should i be stupid like someone suggested and use a torque wrech, b/c really who uses a torque wrech on there dayum lugs. but i will i guess just to prove some points. whats the torque specs on them? i really dont feel like swaping another one of these spindles plus i dont have anymore laying around, im down to the end. then i will have to replace some bearings and get **** pressed out and new studs in. only for this crap to happen again. i'd be so pissed..

 

you're stupid not to use a torque wrench.

learn how bolts work and you will develop the same opinion.

I use a Snap-On Tech-Angle for my lugs.

 

Q: Who uses a torque wrench on their lugs?

A: People that don't want stripped studs, warped rotors and wheels falling off.

*thud*

do it right or do it twice.

 

Okay... i will use a dayum torque wrech then...

 

torque wrench is super important when putting wheels on. tq. specs on the honda is like 75ft lbs., too much torque could also cause the brake rotors to warp.