So I'm putting more oil in my car twice a week and would like to just fix the issue. The only things i can think of that would burn oil so fast would be rings or valve seals. So if i did a compression test and it came up fine would that mean that my valve seals are bad? (I have not done the comp test yet)

Thanks for any help you guys have.


-Carson

 

don't forget leaking..

 

is it smoking at idle, driving normally?, do you have vtec?, is it smoking during vtec? *if you have it*, or is it just plain smoking in high rpm? or as crimson said are you leaving massive amounts of good oil?

 

no leaking.

I have not checked to see if it is smoking during idle but on the hwy if i get on it, it smokes, it i hit vtec, it smokes.

 

check your pcv no one ever replaces them they are three dollars and if dosent help theres no big loss. Also how many miles are on it?

 

i bought the block used with a supposed 6 months of use from a fairly reliable source, and the head was just rebuilt 2000 miles ago.

 

pull off that pcv valve and see if it rattles if not in your case its probalby stuck open and thats where all your oil is going. no unuasal noises to speak of?

 

nope, nothing out of the ordinary (as far as noises go)

where is this pcv valve?

 

its on the intake manifold. With the car running, slightly pinch the hose thats attached to it, if the pcv valve starts ratlling/making a noise then it works.

anyone correct me if I'm wrong, pretty sure I read that in the manual.

 

Jus tulled out my y8 that was burning about the same amount. Compression #'s were perfect and it was just WAY to much oil to be getting past the valve seals. A engine builder told me that if you severely overheat the motor, it can cause the oil ring to fail though. The oil ring not sweeping oil off the cyclinder wall as the piston comes back down allows a fair bit get into the combustion chamber, especially under hard acceleration when crankcase pressures climb.

I'm going to start breaking down the motor soon to confirm or deny this diagnosis. I'm hoping it JUST oil rings that I can replace and reassmble without having to replace compression rings and hone too.

 

I would start with the PCV, then work onto the valve stem seals.

But ultimately, if you can get a leak-down test down that should be a good sign of what is going/or gone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92’si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for any help you guys have. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm *guessing* rings - specifically your 'oil rings' not your 'compression control' rings... It's a 'three-ring circus', you know?

CASITE MOTOR HONEY is your friend!

I used to have a car that burned 2-quarts a day - had to install foul-adapters on all the spark plugs just to keep it running.

That's when I *discovered* this magic chemical. It's sort of like STP but better for oil control!

In my experience, Motor Honey will STOP oil burning for a week or two (before it's depleted) then you'll have to throw another bottle in your motor.

Yeah, it's a band-aid but it will stop the oil burning/smoking. Ultimately you'll have to attack the problem, but in the meantime...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rivaladore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its on the intake manifold. With the car running, slightly pinch the hose thats attached to it, if the pcv valve starts ratlling/making a noise then it works.

anyone correct me if I'm wrong, pretty sure I read that in the manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>

can i get a generic pic?

It's not attached to the fuel rail, right?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackDeuceCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm *guessing* rings - specifically your 'oil rings' not your 'compression control' rings... It's a 'three-ring circus', you know?

CASITE MOTOR HONEY is your friend!

I used to have a car that burned 2-quarts a day - had to install foul-adapters on all the spark plugs just to keep it running.

That's when I *discovered* this magic chemical. It's sort of like STP but better for oil control!

In my experience, Motor Honey will STOP oil burning for a week or two (before it's depleted) then you'll have to throw another bottle in your motor.

Yeah, it's a band-aid but it will stop the oil burning/smoking. Ultimately you'll have to attack the problem, but in the meantime... </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks alot man, ill go get some of that **** hahah!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92’si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


It's not attached to the fuel rail, right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what engine do you have, i have a d16z6 and its right under the fuel rail

 

i got a ls/vtec with a p72 head. stock fuel rail but a skunk2 i/m.

 

how long does it take for your oil to turn black? another sign of f'd rings

 

hmm i dunno a little over a week from when i put new oil in until it gets black on the dip stick.

 

okay if the oil is gettig consumed, here is how to properly know the source before teardown, and replaceing the wrong stuff. if when driving you select a gear such as d2 or 2nd in a stick, and accelerate normally, bring it up to higher rpms, then let off the gas completely and let it coast, this is the highest vacuum the motor wil ever see, and if its the valve stem seals, this will be when it smokes. if its the rings, reguardless o ftwhich ones, you would replace them all, as oil blow by hurts the comp rings anyways. anyhoo, if it is the rings, when sitting at a light for a while it will smoke then or once you take off from the light. either then or when accelerating, when intake vacuum is low, the oil will blow by the rings. keep in mind the oil is a fuel to the catalyst to an extent, and it superheats the consumed oil into such a fine mist, that it is harder to detect if you still have a cat. another way to know if its rings or valves, is to yank the plugs, as oil wil generally come in one side, then one side of the plug will be oil fouled, wheras rings would foul all of the way around the plug. another thing that can cause good valve seals to leak is if the oil cant drain well out of the head, check the passages, as even new proper seals seldom work properly when submerged under a pool of oil. they are only meant to protect from a spray of oil, not being under an inch of standing liquid oil.