Well its a 95 LS with stock B18B1 and well the pic speaks for itself... can this be fixed..??

 

You could try welding the hole, then drilling and tapping it.

 

Been done hundreds of times.....Just clean the **** out of it.Have it welded up grind it back down good and smooth and retap the hole....

 

ight sweet... im startin to feel a bit of confidence in this situation... its my cousins LS motor that he wanted to sell me but i didnt wanna buy it if it's not fixable...

 

Its not as easy as just welding it up. You need to completely tear down the bottom end and have it welded. The heat from welding that might cause the bore to distort thus resulting in the obvious. The proper way is to tear down the bottom end weld it and have it honed to make for an even cylinder.

 

sweet thanks dude... sounds like im just gonna skip this deal, and get my car painted first lol... im sure ill find an LS block or B20 block somewhere else for the low low, thats not physically fubarred...

 

I would bet it would be cheaper to buy a junk yard block.. unless theres something special about this one.

Or you could JB Weld it :X

 

Ive fixed that kinda stuff in a very ghetto way before. Thread a bolt in, grab a MIG welder with a spool gun and weld around the bolt. Once it cools a little take the bolt out and let it cool all the way. Then tap it and you're good to go.

Did it once on a piston/rod B16 about 3 years ago. Motor is still running strong and was not taken apart before I welded. Just make sure its clean and the engine still has some coolant in it to provide some protection to the cylinders.

 

Cool, thanks man... I was wonderin if something like that would work... With leaving the bolt in for the welding process to keep the circle shape for the bolt... If i can get my hands on my boys MIG i'll be good, otherwise i might just try to find another block...

There's nothing special about this one, other than i seen it in person on 10psi an **** was a beast...

 

i've fixed an accident motor like that before. i threadded a bolt in and welded around it. then pulled the bolt out bolted up the mount that goes on there and used a timesert drillbit and then tapped it and then interted the timesert. not too much work but maybe it is for an LS. i did it to save a type r

 

and how did it handle after that..??

 

how would the heat distort the bore on the block considering you have full water jackets around the cylinders? they dont even touch the outside of the block.

 

just fine. that was over a year ago. i think the timesert is the key though

 

timesert... hmmmm, do u have a picture of one of them.. im not a welding pro by any means, i'd leave it up to my machinist but im just curious..

 

no but if you google timesert its the first thing that comes up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would the heat distort the bore on the block considering you have full water jackets around the cylinders? they dont even touch the outside of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ohhh [freak], please STFU while your ahead. Ask any machine shop or any well rounded mechanic. Its the PROPER way to go about the situation. Let me guess you moron the cylinders are floating on the inside of the block??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ohhh [freak], please STFU while your ahead. Ask any machine shop or any well rounded mechanic. Its the PROPER way to go about the situation. Let me guess you moron the cylinders are floating on the inside of the block?? </TD></TR></TABLE>


hahaha. a bit harsh but funny none the less.

1 2 nv, i dont pretend to know everything about this stuff but i have heard a few engine builders state that when you weld combustion chambers (different i know but probably similar for purpose of discussion) that the head must be normalized afterwards.

maybe this would be the same.

also, i would guess that the water jackets alone arnt enough to save you from a few thousand degrees.

 

thats a hell of alot of aluminum to heat and then transfer into the cylinders to distort the bore of an iron sleeve.
and i guess you have to align hone the block every time you press in sleeves too?
you have your opinion i have mine.
my block didnt need align honed after my sleeves got installed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a hell of alot of aluminum to heat and then transfer into the cylinders to distort the bore of an iron sleeve.
and i guess you have to align hone the block every time you press in sleeves too?
you have your opinion i have mine.
my block didnt need align honed after my sleeves got installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Call ERL performance and ask them if they align hone after sleeving a block. I understand that people have different ways of doing things BUT there are proper ways of doing things as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a hell of alot of aluminum to heat and then transfer into the cylinders to distort the bore of an iron sleeve.
and i guess you have to align hone the block every time you press in sleeves too?
you have your opinion i have mine.
my block didnt need align honed after my sleeves got installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you over felt something after its been welded? Most likely you haven't because its to damn hot to touch. Also, do you understand how much heat its going to take to have proper penetration/bonding to fix that block?

 

So you think $50 bucks is even to much for it lol..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you think $50 bucks is even to much for it lol..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not worth the hassle. You can get them all day for 150 dollars. Thats my opinion anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you think $50 bucks is even to much for it lol..</TD></TR></TABLE>

hell no! iv bought numerous blocks for $50 or less... the crank alone u can sell for $100.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hell no! iv bought numerous blocks for $50 or less... the crank alone u can sell for $100. </TD></TR></TABLE>

very true and if you want I have a bare LS block I would sell you to make yourself a complete one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call ERL performance and ask them if they align hone after sleeving a block. I understand that people have different ways of doing things BUT there are proper ways of doing things as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i wasnt saying it isnt a good idea to check. i was just saying that mine wasnt needed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Have you over felt something after its been welded? Most likely you haven't because its to damn hot to touch. Also, do you understand how much heat its going to take to have proper penetration/bonding to fix that block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope never been around a weld in my life. ::looks over a syncrowave 200

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its not worth the hassle. You can get them all day for 150 dollars. Thats my opinion anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree, a LS block is a dime a dozen. you should be able to get a shortblock for that much money, just be patient.