h23 vtec build question on timing
anyone here do the h23vtec build that still post? Im so far into it and seems like my timing belt is too short. Im usin all the h22 timing parts, a greddy timing belt and have both the automatic and manual tensioners. Any recommendations? Tried both tesioners and still cant get the belt on.
do you fit the belt around the crank cog first?? then work to your water pump and cam gears?? always make sure that the manual tensioning bearing is fully relaxed in its downed position...
are you running a thicker headgasket?
I know that with my motor, i am running a head gasket that is twice as thick as stock and i have a timing belt that doesnt exactly stretch. I do the cam gears last. I also have to remove the cam caps and rails then angle the gears down in order to get the belt on. Then put the caps and rails back on in hopes that the gears are lined up properly. zip tie the gears together so they dont move. It makes the process a little easier.
I know that with my motor, i am running a head gasket that is twice as thick as stock and i have a timing belt that doesnt exactly stretch. I do the cam gears last. I also have to remove the cam caps and rails then angle the gears down in order to get the belt on. Then put the caps and rails back on in hopes that the gears are lined up properly. zip tie the gears together so they dont move. It makes the process a little easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tmrtwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone here do the h23vtec build that still post? Im so far into it and seems like my timing belt is too short. Im usin all the h22 timing parts, a greddy timing belt and have both the automatic and manual tensioners. Any recommendations? Tried both tesioners and still cant get the belt on</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also make sure you have all H22 gears (crankgear waterpump and cam gears ) there shouldnt be any problems getting the belt on with the hydro tensioner. That leads me to belive there is something else wrong. (unless you do not have the tension fully depressed on the hydro setup)
Modified by 98vtec at 10:30 AM 7/21/2008
Modified by md23vtec at 9:08 AM 7/21/2008
Also make sure you have all H22 gears (crankgear waterpump and cam gears ) there shouldnt be any problems getting the belt on with the hydro tensioner. That leads me to belive there is something else wrong. (unless you do not have the tension fully depressed on the hydro setup)
Modified by 98vtec at 10:30 AM 7/21/2008
Modified by md23vtec at 9:08 AM 7/21/2008
yea its fully compressed .Its brand new and has the bar holding it down. I switched back and forth from the manual to auto and still tight. Just bought a oem timing belt today. Gonna give that a try maybe in a few days. How many teeth are on the h22 waterpump? thats the only thing i can think is wrong if anyhting. I bought the waterpump new and the h22 crank gear new. It fits the bottom gear but maybe the waterpump could be wrong? ill have to double check the cam gears to. What number is on the h22 cam gears again p14?
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So start off from the bottom and work ur way up? I was going from the exhaust cam around the bottom crank, around the tensioner and waterpump then tryin to get it over the intake cam gear
this is the easiest thing to do...go to your oem h22a service manual really good description as long as the hg is stock and that the head and block heights are within oem limits...zip ties do work well just get the tough ones
the crank gear from my experience is the best point to start from...other people have their means...
the manual tensioner conversion makes life much easier as well...and takes about 5 minutes to install
(p.s. the h22a cam sprockets and such are a 26T belt, the h23 is 22T belt)
the crank gear from my experience is the best point to start from...other people have their means...
the manual tensioner conversion makes life much easier as well...and takes about 5 minutes to install
(p.s. the h22a cam sprockets and such are a 26T belt, the h23 is 22T belt)
thanx alot man. Tried it around the crank gear first and slid on so easy. Wish i would have posted this question a while ago would have had this build done along time ago. Another question tho.....is there a easy way to get the crankshaft bolt off? the guy at the shop i took it to put it back on i think with a impact. Should i just try and jam the flywheel with a screwdriver and then try with a breaker bar? Also do u know if that is a reverse thread considering the engine spins counterclockwise?
it has been said that with a good impact you should be able to get off. retorque it down to 181ft/lbs
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1947616
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1947616
what I do for the crank bolt is put some heat on the head and use a flat steel punch to the bolt head a little...this little **** head really takes some persuasion but be careful with your impact gun settings be gentle to that crank nose
sorry to just jump in ur post, but i have a whole h23 motor here. high compression, if u need any parts, lemme know, i'll hook u up, need to get rid of it, again, sorry for jumping in
damn got everything together and car still isnt running! Any suggestions on what to check? Im gettin spark and gas. Spark doesnt seem to be right looks orange. Shouldnt it be blue? Also question on what grounds to double check
i had that problem with my car. and the first thing i checked was the ecu. the car that wouldn't start was a obd1 b16, and i just happend to have a prelude ecu next to me, so i just plugged in the h23 ecu, and tried starting it, and it started fine
double check your fuse panels, check your starter motor, your battery voltage start with the basics then move on...even adding extra grounding would help out
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