1994 Honda Accord 170k
1992 H22a
H23 Transmission

Everytime, I replace the fuse, the fuse always pop.

Now, when I disconnect the ECU then reconnect it. The ECU is fine.

When I start driving it for a good 10 minutes it popped again.

Now, before you read this, I know it's not the smartest thing to do, but it's what I had in order to get the car home. I was a good 2 miles away.

I wrapped some wire up around the fuse and plugged it in. Turned the key on the number II position, but did no start. When I did that and look under the hood, I realize that one of the plugs on the passenger side engine harness that has a Yel/Blk wire on it, starting melting a little bit. Then I immediately pull the ghetto rig fuse back out.

Now I'm just puzzled, trying to figure out what's going on with it.

Now I take the ECU back off again, replace the fuse with the right fuse amp, then the car starts up. WIERD!

When driving normal, it's fine. But when I start getting on the Gas the the RPMs do get up there, That's when it blew again. Now I'm stuck on the side of the highway.

Then I did the same procedure again, and just drove normally, and now it's parked safely at home.

So what can it be? What's the Yel/Blk? Should I start just taking off the engine harness, and start looking for "dead" wires?

I'm low on budget, I have a multimeter, but I just don't know where to start.

EDIT
Here are the photos to the burnt wire.


Also while I was looking around I found 2 plugs that are unknown.


This one was cut I don't know you be the judge of that.



Modified by DB2NineDuece at 4:19 PM 7/17/2008

 

Also It's a HONDATA S200 P28 ECU. I put it in a different vehicle, and it ran just fine.

 

Looks like that wire was handling a ton of current. Enough to cause it to melt the insulation. The cause of that type of symptom is a direct short to ground or at least an extreme load. Most likely is a direct short. You need to trace that wire and find the short. I cannot provide an electrical schematic from Honda in fear of violating proprietary rights. I'm sure you understand.

I diagnose problems similar to this often. I recommend replacing the fuse with a light bulb. This allows you to observe the action in the circuit without worrying about damage. The light bulb turns the short into a normal circuit with added feedback of being able to see the light. When you eliminate the short, you should see the bulb go out or at least change in intensity depending on the circuit type. Use a high resistance light bulb. Something that wont allow excessive current and damage more stuff. Like a map light bulb. SOmething small. Goodluck.

 

 

Did you light your car on fire? Did you find anything yet?

 

no i didn't

thats what I saw when i tried to find the short.

I'm going to take the engine harness apart.

try that. and also try to lead where that fuse hooks up to.

 

Best wishes.

 

I would guess the engine harness has a short to ground most likely where the intake is or is rubbing on somthing ..but since you put bypassed the fuse and caused the wire to melt the main harness is bad now as that wire yel/blk is melted into other wires..

 

I just spent a good amount of time to redo the engine harness.

And while I was doing that, I noticed the O2 Wires were just a little too long. Previous owner lengthened it a little too long. And when I took the electrical tape off. I noticed all 4 wires were burned, due to rubbing on the exhaust manifold. So that was the culprit.

Took it out for a spin. Stomp on the gas up to redline a few times just to see if it did the same thing as before. And it runs like a champ.

Now I have to figure out how to lower my HC for emissions. I guess it's too much unburnt fuel at Idle. Any tips?

 

To get an idea of how the engine is performing you need to do a 5gas analysis. You can run the numbers through a lambda calculator, too. Should give you a start to troubleshooting any emission problem.