ANyone running the ARP wheels studs with oem wheels????

I heard they had to be tack welded into place..is this true or just pressing them in is good??

I want to verify the ARP number for the EF hubs,070-100-7711..is this correct?

Also i am running Si wheels, Which wheel nuts can i use since oem wheels use the ball seat???

 

im not sure about tacking them in place...
But I was wondering was that you have to press the hub out to replace the wheel studs on the ef chasis. Can we do a notch like the Dc's have to make removing them and reinstall easier?

 

You can notch the knuckles to get the studs out. I don't like doing that, but I know of many people that have with no issues.

I'm running them with OEM BMW wheels and HX wheels, both of which work just fine.

I did not tack weld them into place. They're knurled on the underside of the flange. Between pressing them in and tightening down the lug nuts, they're not going anywhere. For lugnuts I just bought some on Ebay for cheap that stated oem fitment but had a hollow channel for the stud.

Your part number is correct as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard they had to be tack welded into place..is this true or just pressing them in is good??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends.

if you have pretty new hubs, then pressing them in will be fine.
If you have hubs that you're unsure of their age... you might want to tack weld them in.

it all depends on how much wear has been put on them. i pressed in studs into new hubs, the never spun. I pressed in studs into old hubs, three of the suckers spun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Depends.

if you have pretty new hubs, then pressing them in will be fine.
If you have hubs that you're unsure of their age... you might want to tack weld them in.

it all depends on how much wear has been put on them. i pressed in studs into new hubs, the never spun. I pressed in studs into old hubs, three of the suckers spun. </TD></TR></TABLE>Woah, it's been a while good sir.

I've pressed ARP regular and extended into both new hubs and used ones, and I had no problem. The only thing I did notice was that it seemed the studs chewed away at the teeth in the holes, possibly allowing for spinning if ever replaced.

 

Has anyone found a company selling the lug nuts with the oem ball seat???

 

just get them from honda. I ordered some new ones for a 89 crx si and they are open ended, they were under one dollar each, I think you can afford $16

 

or if your lugs arent thru and you know a machinist you could get him to cut the end off of the lug til they are thru. i had to do that to one of my friends spline drive lugs. if you had to pay a machinist to do it though im sure it would cost more than $16

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get them from honda. I ordered some new ones for a 89 crx si and they are open ended, they were under one dollar each, I think you can afford $16</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not the money, Its the fact i like the look of the longer lugs they sell for aftermarket wheels only with the taper seat!

Yes honda sells open lugs but they are very small and i think it will look crappy with all stud sticking out!
I have the oem crx open ended lugs and they are very short

 

Oh I see, you want the long shank ones. the only other wheel supplier that uses the OEM ball seat is mugen, so I would see if mugen sells them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've pressed ARP regular and extended into both new hubs and used ones, and I had no problem. The only thing I did notice was that it seemed the studs chewed away at the teeth in the holes, possibly allowing for spinning if ever replaced.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's likely the same issue I had too...

I ended up opting on buying all new hubs and pressing extended studs into all of them, no more worries.

for normal OEM length studs, you can grind down one side of the stud and install without separating the hub from the knuckle...

Anything longer than the standard OEM length studs, you'll likely have to separate the hub from the knuckle (including the ??TL?? studs).

If you get extended studs and want OEM wheels, you'll need to find the open-ended lugs, which is going to be either:
1. hard to find.
2. expensive.

or you'll have to make your own by cutting the tops off of oem lugs. I grinded down some of those spline drive lugs that discount tire usually provides... used those on wheels for two years without any problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you get extended studs and want OEM wheels, you'll need to find the open-ended lugs, which is going to be either:
1. hard to find.
2. expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Except that they're easy to find and cheap. Any good parts store should be able to get you open ended ball seat lug nuts for less than $1 each.

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...Set=A

i got Part No. 98995, they are bright finish and very well made. been rocking them for about 2 years with no issues