**updated at bottom of post**

so my boost control stopped working and i can't figure out what i need to fix. heres a list of everything i've done to troubleshoot so far to try to figure out the problem....

-unhook wastegate line to see if boost spikes, it does
-check to see if the solenoid clicks and startup, it does
-rewire everything for the hell of it
-check to see if the pwm controls come on during a pull when i datalog, they do
-increase the duty cycle to see if it will turn up the boost, doesn't do a thing
-try a gm solenoid instead of a mac/aem/hondata, it doesn't work, and i spike to boost cut because its normally open
-open up my ecu to see if any of the pwm components look physically burned up or damaged, nothing looked damaged

so basically everything is acting like boost control is working, yet i'm still only boosting off the spring. both, my mac and the gm solenoid clicked at start up, yet they don't regulate boost whatsoever. so the only thing i can think of that would be causing this is something in the ecu that went bad, but i don't know what. is there a certain pwm component that would cause this problem if it went bad?

thanks



-i have also now checked to see if the solenoid gets hot when enabled by setting the parameter to -14.7psi and it doesn't even get warm, but does the normal one click when i turn it on
-i have also put the duty cycle up to 100% and still didnt see a difference.

Modified by .adam. at 10:54 AM 8/11/2008


Modified by .adam. at 10:57 AM 8/11/2008


Modified by .adam. at 10:58 AM 8/11/2008

 

did it work previously? what duty cycle have you tried? the mac solenoids dont really do anything until you get to 40-50%

 

yeah it worked previously

when i got it tuned at slowmotion, we set up my secondary tables and boost control on the same toggle switch. the only thing that comes to mind would be that i had him email me my tune a while back and for some reason they were different when i uploaded that file. for my duty cycles, my low boost was set at 10% (spring pressure), and my high boost was at 19% (what should be 26 psi). i tried upping my duty cycle up to 30% and didnt notice it go above spring pressure. i guess ill try upping it a lot more and see what happens. i'll also email my tuner and see what he says. thanks for the input

 

Does the solenoid get hot while you have the "boost control feature" turned on in the software? If its getting hot, it could be a bad transistor that gets installed on the board for the PWM hardware. I have a had a few bad transistors causing a similar issue, and the pin stays grounded causing the solenoids to get hot and not pulse.

 

how long does it take to get hot? would it get hot if i just had the key turned all the way over or does the car need to be running? i left the key on for a while to see if it got hot and didn't really notice it getting too warm.

 

which component is the transistor that tends to go bad? is there anyway i can check the resistance on it or something to see if its good or not?

 

You have to have the solenoid enabled. Put the conditions to turn it on at -14.5 psi, that way on key on it will turn on and pulse. Leave it go for a minute or so and if the solenoid is getting hot, the pin a11 is staying grounded. The large black 3 pin piece is the transistor that seems to give the issues. I am sure that there is a way to test it, but I just do it by trial and error (desoldering and soldering a new one on) when I am in the middle of a tuning session and there are issues with them.

 

do you know if radioshack or any electronics stores stock that transistor, if not would you be willing to sell me one?

 

I doubt that radio shack has one, you can try digikey.com and see if they have one. I have the hondata boost packages in stock, but none of the transistors separately.

 

You can definitely get them from digi key OR you can desolder the IACV transistor and use it for the PWM output. They use all the same components. It is the other transistor located right above the PWM location.

 

well i thought i would update this thread and see if anyone else might be able to help.

i've messed around with the duty cycle and even put it all the way to 100% and it still just boosts off the spring. I've also enabled it to come on at -14.7psi and turned the key to on to see if it got hot, and it didnt get warm at all. it clicked once when i turned the key to on but didnt make any other noises afterwards....

 

late night bump

 

anyyyyyonnnnneeeeeeee????? i've ran out of ideas

 

Your best bet is to take the car to a local hondata dealer that can start swaping out parts to see what the issue is.

 

http://www.xenocron.com/catalo...rt=2a

Xeno has them, but all you need is any 5151 unit from a newer obd1 ecu that was used for auto or vtec. Check to see if yours says 5050 on it, thats the older style that has issues with certain higher-voltage internal ecu tests (something like that).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.xenocron.com/catalo...rt=2a

Xeno has them, but all you need is any 5151 unit from a newer obd1 ecu that was used for auto or vtec. Check to see if yours says 5050 on it, thats the older style that has issues with certain higher-voltage internal ecu tests (something like that).</TD></TR></TABLE>

He does not need a 5151 or 5050 neither of those components are used for PWM output on A11.