thanks.


Modified by Fat Chick Magnet at 12:47 PM 7/20/2008

 

dont really think its related to your exhaust switch.

1 and 3 tell me that its a coolant issue but not sure where you would be getting coolant from if you didnt touch the head gasket.

 

air bubble in the coolant system is my guess for the idle problem

make sure your timing is correct since you just did the belt, maybe half tooth off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMaDOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">air bubble in the coolant system is my guess for the idle problem

make sure your timing is correct since you just did the belt, maybe half tooth off.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I didn't do it. I had my mechanic do it. I was there when he was doing it and he showed me TDC before he put the belt on.

How do i get rid of air bubble in the coolant system?

 

took some pictures of my spark plugs.

 

man I hate having shops work on my cars...you never know what the F they did.

are you sure the smoke you see is white and not like a bluish white tint? coolant is BRIGHT white smoke, oil is like a whitish bluish darker tint depending how bad it is.

those plugs dont really look like a problem other than the threads being covered in **** (oil?). unless you popped a head gasket, I just dont see you smoking white from burning coolant by changing a belt, pump, and tensioner.

check your coolant, bleed it properly, check for oil buildup underneath the cap and floating around in the coolant. air could cause idle to bounce. if you dont see anything i dont think you have a head gasket problem.

just guessing but I think you are seeing oil burning smoke.

 

If I'm doing something wrong flushing out my radiator getting air in the system how exactly do you flush a radiator out in a proper way?

 

take the tip of a paper towel, and stick it in the radiator hole. whatever that **** is in there will stick to the paper towel and you can see what is it a little better. hard to tell in the pics.

you dont really need to FLUSH the system unless its filthy. simply set the heater control to the hot side (but dont turn on the heat), open the radiator cap, fill it up, turn the car on, and let it warm up. watch the level in the radiator. usually right before the fan comes on the level will drop when the thermo opens up. when the level drops, fill it. as the fan cools it off, the level will start to rise again and start to spill over. do this 2 or 3 times and after you fill it the last time, put the cap on. and make sure the reservior is clean and at the right level.

 

Ok I did it the complete opposite way. I actually had the heater ON while filling the radiator up. And for some reason It's rare for my radiator fans to turn on.. I'm assuming my thermostat isn't working well and needs to be replaced.

 

if you have the heater on, it will take forever for the coolant to heat up. the heater core acts as a heat exchanger, which is why if your car is overheating, you turn on the heater to help cool it down.

most mechanics would know to replace the thermo when doing a waterpump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have the heater on, it will take forever for the coolant to heat up. the heater core acts as a heat exchanger, which is why if your car is overheating, you turn on the heater to help cool it down.

most mechanics would know to replace the thermo when doing a waterpump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive been through alot of training and worked on hundreds of cars and never once did the water pump and thermostat as a combination, the only time ive changed a thermostat is when it went bad

but it does sound like a headgasket problem

turn on the car, take off the radiator cap and look for "bubbling"

 

that code could be causing the weird idle issues... if i were you i would take off the iacv and clean it out as best you can

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that code could be causing the weird idle issues... if i were you i would take off the iacv and clean it out as best you can</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks bud thats what I'm going to do tonight.

 

so i unbolted the IACV and cleaned it with brake part cleaner pretty well, but I didn't pull the hoses off it I left it on there because i seemed like If i pulled any harder they would of literally ripped on me. Anyways bottom line is i cleaned it out and i sorta dried it with a rag and got all the black crap out of it and bolt it back on and fired my car and It was idling at 100 RPM no joke.. I hope the brake part cleaner didn't harm anything, but as soon as I took it around the block and came back seemed like the car was idling fine It wasn't jumped from 100 RPM to 800 RPM, but now my car idles at 400 RPM. hmmmm ...normal idle?