Any tips on how to remove this? I do not have an impact and have heard that most don't work anyhow. I was looking at the crank removal tools however my crank does not have the hex shape on the inside and therefore I cannot use that tool.

 

No suggestions?

 

Engine in the car or out?

 

if the engine is in the car put a bar through one of the small holes in the crank pully and let it jam up against the frame rail.

 

Get a breaker bar on it,then let the car down slowly when jacked up and let the pressure from the ground get the nut loose!!

 

Engine is in the car

 

when three different air guns and compressors didn't work, i did this to get off mine.....

1. take off the starter
2. jam a thick *** screwdriver in the flywheel teeth
3. use a breaker bar with a 6ft pipe over it to give you more leverage.

good luck.


other tips:
1. spray it with PB blaster for acouple of days before you try to get it off
2. Heat it up with a torch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the engine is in the car put a bar through one of the small holes in the crank pully and let it jam up against the frame rail.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What holes? The only "holes" I know of are the ones used to inject liquid rubbber into the mount at the factory. I've never seen holes that go all the way through but I could be wrong.

I guess I would try heating the bolt with a torch and then hit it with a impact or a breaker bar. I've always had the most trouble removing that bitch crank pulley bolt with the engine out of the car...with no engine stand

 

there are 6 i think holes around the perimeter of the crank pulley, put a bar through one and when you start trying to loosen the bolt the pulley and crank will turn until the bar contacts the frame and jams up holding the pulley in place, the pulleys with the hex hole in the middle do not have these holes.

 

I would suggest finding something thicker than a screwdriver. I've bent a few that I thought were pretty strong.

 

these are the worst ideas ever.

heres wat you do.


you put a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the crank bolt, you get yourself a 2x4, about 3-4 feet long. you get the breaker bar good enough as to where you can get a good swing, you hit that breaker bar with the edge of the 2x4 with all your might, you may have to whack it a couple times, but goddamn it works for me every time.

 

Find someone with a powerful impact wrench and a tank to fill with air. It won't take but a second to knock it loose with one powerful enough. I just used my dad's old Chicago Pneumatic 1/2 inch drive, cranked up to 180PSI.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by longshot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">these are the worst ideas ever.

heres wat you do.


you put a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the crank bolt, you get yourself a 2x4, about 3-4 feet long. you get the breaker bar good enough as to where you can get a good swing, you hit that breaker bar with the edge of the 2x4 with all your might, you may have to whack it a couple times, but goddamn it works for me every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you're saying it's a better idea to forcefully swing a 2x4 at your car than to simply prevent the flywheel's rotation?

 

2000 dx
cut a piece of the old power steering belt and wrap it around the power steering pulley. wrap your chain wrench over the belt and jam it against the half shaft. Spray the bolt with some Free. put your socket and breaker bar on the bolt and your foot on the end of the breaker bar while holding on the radiator frame. lift your self up and bounce your weight. be sure your wheels are chocked

 

Two year old post to the date, good job.