So I am trying to hookup a MSD distributor setup with a FAST standalone and a Digital 6. I can't wire it up as instructed because the only thing coming through my stock plug is the crank and cam sensors so there is no power coming through my main plug to the dizzy. With everything hooked up I have my main plug to the dizzy and the MSD module has a Red/Orange wire that usually fires the coil. It wants you to hook the Red/Orange module wires to the Red/White of the digital 6 and then fire the coil from the Orange/Black of the Digital 6. If I would wire it as instructed then I am not hooking my points wire from the FAST system to anything so it will not fire the ignition system. The Red/White wires that the MSD module hooks to is Red(switched 12v) and White (Points). I tried leaving the Digital 6 hooked up the way it is and just ran power to the Red wire on the module and hooked up the other wire that wanted the Points to the negative side of the coil to trigger but the car would just hiccup once or twice and not fire to run. Let me know what I need to do to get this setup to work, thanks!

 

Run the points wire, or the white wire from the FAST (it might be a different color on the older FAST boxes) to the white wire on the MSD Digital 6. Run the power/ground from the digital 6 to the coil that you are using. The cam/crank signals (send/receive) from the distributor are the only ones that should run into the FAST box. By running the points wire from the FAST to the MSD digital 6 you are eliminating the need for the MSD ignitor (which can fail). Its pretty straight forward.

 

From what I understand that would be leaving the digital 6 hooked up like it is now as if I wasn't running the MSD setup at all. I tried just hooking up the distributor without messing with the module box and it would not fire anytthing. I was told the module powers the hall effect sensors and converts the signal back to inductive so the FAST (or stock computer) would understand it. The FAST won't understand a straight hall effect signal from what I understand.

 

I called MSD alot when I was trying to make there Dizzy work with my fast system and never made it work. I have 2 MSD dizzy that don't work now and not worth getting repaired. I used a stock dizzy with no problems. The sensor in the MSD Dizzy is not a normal HAL sensor.

 

Well let me ask you guys this will a OBD 2 stock dizzy perform any better then a OBD 1 dizzy or are the sensors inside exactly the same quality. I haven't tried to run a OBD 2 vtec dizzy yet. I have only dealt with OBD 1's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ntense90crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well let me ask you guys this will a OBD 2 stock dizzy perform any better then a OBD 1 dizzy or are the sensors inside exactly the same quality. I haven't tried to run a OBD 2 vtec dizzy yet. I have only dealt with OBD 1's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

same stuff.

 

Thats what I thought, thanks.

 

I am just having a misfiring problem once the car gets past 6000rpms with stock dizzys that is the whole reason behind trying to get the MSD setup to work in hopes for a better signal to the FAST. Has anyone successfully used a FAST system, MSD Igntion, and a stock dizzy?

 

its so straight forward, i dont know how you are having problems

new plugs ?

tighten the gap ?

new cap and rotor ??

 

Well I have a brand new Digital MSD box that I upgraded from a 6al when the problem occoured, new MSD cap, new blaster coil, new plugs, tightend the gap, only thing that is used at all is the rotor button. I guess I could try another rotor button but god forbid all this headache and money spent for a damn rotor button, lol.

 

what is your gap @ ?

did the old cap or your rotor show any signs of being burnt up ?

 

I think I have the gap down around .2ish and the rotor button looks fine and I sanded on the tip to clean it up even. I will just have to get ahold of a new rotor and see what happens I guess.

 

Run it at .015" gap, if the problem gets better then it's a spark intensity problem, if it doesn't change then it's not and could be a trigger problem or a mechanical problem.

 

Thanks a lot guys you all have been really helpful. I will let you all know how it goes from here, hopefully good.

 

the msd dizzy is crap i have one and hate it it will just wont stay together lock tight everything and the damn thing still comes apart . tonys deal is about the best out there wright now by the time you add up all the hart ache and times its thrown the rotor of its not worth it im on my 5th rotor/cap

 

Just buy M&W pro 10 and be done with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just buy M&W pro 10 and be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


it has nothing to do with that....... the fast and the msd dont use the ignitor anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the msd dizzy is crap i have one and hate it it will just wont stay together lock tight everything and the damn thing still comes apart . tonys deal is about the best out there wright now by the time you add up all the hart ache and times its thrown the rotor of its not worth it im on my 5th rotor/cap </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow thats odd, ive only thrown the cap once, and thats cause of me installing the lock washers backward. are you sure their on right? after the first rotor, i have yet to have a problem with more than a FEW passes....

 

I was pretty excited to run the MSD dizzy setup, it looked like a nice piece but appearence and quality are two different things I guess. If it would of worked on my setup I would of ran it until it self destructed at least, lol.

 

im pretty shure its the rpm thats killing them i shift at 11. im going to try and put a nut on the back side of the rotor to see if that helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im pretty shure its the rpm thats killing them i shift at 11. im going to try and put a nut on the back side of the rotor to see if that helps </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm, i guess that would be the only reason, i shift at 10.8 most of the time. i used green #27 loctite if that helps....i see a nylon lock nut helping you though.

 

Well a nice obd2 50,000 mile dizzy and a new rotor button cleared it up. Runs like a champ now so time to get to the dyno and crank it up. Thanks for all the help guys.