I currently use Mobile1 5w-30 in my 98 prelude base(h22A4) it burns a 3/4 a quart every 1000 miles, will Synthetic Oil burn slower?
P.S. it has 76XXX.
And when I first got the car it had 10w30 and it didn’t burn oil at all.
What should I do?
If I put an s2k oil filter will it slow down oil consumption?

 

0123

 

Synthetic oil will not burn slower.

Changing your oil filter does nothing to slow oil consumption.

Get used to dealing with the car burning oil.

 

the motor doesnt burn 10w-30, do you think its a good idea to get mobile1 10w-30 synthetic or go for the 5w30 synthetic? also does synthetic burn quicker?

 

it doesnt burn quicker. You already had that question answered.

the weight of the oil will have an effect on how easily it can bypass old seals. If you have old seals in the motor 10w30 oil and it leaks, it will leak worse with 5w30 as 5w is a thinner oil than 10w.

 

One more question I let my car sit for about 15 mins, to top off the oil. I put about ¾ of 1qrt. I drove to work and the car has been sitting now for 4hours, I went down stairs and now the oil is a little above the 2nd dot on the dip stick. Can this damage my motor?
I think I over filled it by less then a ¼ of a 1qt of oil?

And the car has no leaks. I think it need a tune up though, can that effect how much oil it burns?

 

That extra oil will mostly get sucked up through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. Shouldn't hurt much other than that.

 

one of the only ways to "burn" oil is for it to get into the combustion chamber. If that is happening, then there is no tuneup that will fix the problem. You will need to do a leak down test to determine where the engine is leaking and fix the problem whether it be rings, valve seals, valve guides, PCV....etc.

If the PCV sucks up oil, it will run into the intake runners which house the valves. These valves are hot and will create carbon deposits on the valves which can cause them to improperly seat and cause further problems. This of course does not happen over night.

 

i think my PCV valve is the problem because there is a **** load of carb on my tail pipe and the car is 100% stock. Thanks for all the Info Blake, Hawkze_2.3, and mkazm83

-Oh, i have one more question thats off the topic, i was reading my service manual the other day and it said honda spark plugs should be changed once every 107,000 miles is this true?
-And do you guys have an estimate on how much it will cost me to get sparkplugs, spark plug wires, rotor, rotor cap, and a PCV valve from Honda?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LukieLuc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Oh, i have one more question thats off the topic, i was reading my service manual the other day and it said honda spark plugs should be changed once every 107,000 miles is this true?
-And do you guys have an estimate on how much it will cost me to get sparkplugs, spark plug wires, rotor, rotor cap, and a PCV valve from Honda?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the service manual says so, it must be true I change mine more than 100k usually though...

Might be $100? Use hondaautomotiveparts.com for the best prices.

 

there is always going to be carbon deposits in your exhaust. You cant fix that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is always going to be carbon deposits in your exhaust. You cant fix that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Theres Alot!! more than normal.

Thanks for the info Guys

 

Just get the oem spec $1.50 copper plugs from Napa and change them every 30k miles. Still cheaper than paying for oem platinum plugs and changing them every 100k.

 

There won't really be a difference in oil burning between a 5W30 oil and a 10W30 oil.

Changing oil brands/types can have minor changes since the SAE numbers really represent ranges of viscosity, not a completely firm number. So I'd expect M1 5W30 to burn faster than GC 0W30, since M1 is a thinner 30 weight than GC.

If you want to cut down on burning, get a thicker oil.

Mobil 1 is a synthetic oil. A real one at that.

I've taken to using a little bit of STP oil sludge (additive) to control burn. Which is probably a bad idea.

If the PCV valve is silent when shaken, get a new one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mobil 1 is a synthetic oil. A real one at that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not anymore. M1 Supersyn is now a Group III oil also, just like the US Castrol Syntec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not anymore. M1 Supersyn is now a Group III oil also, just like the US Castrol Syntec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sigh

 

a honda PCV is $16, and a 0-30 and 10-30 oil will behave the exact same when brought up to operating temp, except with the 0-30 on startup your oil will flow easier due to it being less thick at ambient temps

remember, oil doesn't get thicker as it cools, it gets thinner as it warms

and i love my honda ignition stuff, they sell an ignition kit, with wires, cap, ETC all in one box at a decent price, and get the NGKs from the parts store, not Honda

 

when it comes to comparing Mobil 1 5/10w30 with GC 0w30, they do not behave exactly the same at operating temps.

the GC is actually closer to a 40 weight oil. I've used it in my car since i bought it and i burn very very little oil..maybe 100-200 mm between changes at 5k intervals.

 

as far as I know all oil is the same brand really dosent matter
the blends are different however
What to look for is the label on the back of the bottle that looks like a seal look for the letters SM this is the highest grade oil at the time

 

ya skip mobil 1

its a prelude...........stop hitting vtec hahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by log1c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya skip mobil 1

its a prelude...........stop hitting vtec hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sadly I don’t ever & I still burn a little oil. I checked my PCV yesterday, and the thing in side barely moved. I think it’s the original one that cam with the car, w/ 76K on it.

 

pcv valves are like $2 at autozone

 

Try not to cheap out on the PCV valves guys, please!
The cheap plastic ones do suck *** (regardless who dissagrees with me). Stick to OEM right from honda or if possible get an old school metal one and clean it. Those older ones rarely fail if cleaned occasionally. Also, the old ones gaurenteed, don't flow backwards like the cheap plastic ones do (in my opinion).

 

how do you clean it? I have an OEM one with 77K on it

 

I have a 2000 honda prelude sh, it burns about a quart of an oil every 2.5 weeks. Even after replacing seals and rings, it still burns oil. I think it has to do with an engine block itself. I noticed that if i drive gently, oil doesnt burn as much, try not to push the car above 3500rpms and see it it will make a difference. Ofcourse on the other hand, who wants to drive like that on a prelude....