1994 Honda Accord EX

I was driving yesterday, and I backed out of a driveway, pulled away in first, and when I was ready to switch to second, the clutch was half way down, and felt springy, tighter than usual, I pushed it a few more times and it went right to the floor. Now you can pull the pedal up and push to the floor, but theres no tension at all. I had to drive home with no clutch which was bad.

I checked the fluid and it was down alot, when I added fluid there was some black fluid that was stirred up.

Is the clutch gone? Or can it be free'd up?

Thanks,

Nick


Modified by nickmcpher at 11:49 AM 7/26/2008


Modified by nickmcpher at 11:53 AM 7/26/2008

 

Since your clutch fluid is low you may have a leak in the system. Look under the dash by the clutch pedal to see if there's any fluid. If so, you may have to change your clutch master cylinder. I would also check the clutch slave cylinder.

 

I definately lost fluid because I checked it about 2 weeks ago and it was spot on.

I don't see any fluid around the pedal, or underneath the dash anywhere.

I don't want to have to take it to a shop, so I'll check the master cylinder first.

Thanks for the help.

Nick

 

Its almost like theres just no spring back.

Not sure whats going on.

But I don't think the clutch is engaged.

 

It's most likely one of two things. Pedal is connected to the master cylinder obviously, push the pedal and the slave cylinder moves the fork which presses against the flywheel etc. You're on the right track looking around the pedal and under the dash, but don't forget to check the master cylinder on the firewall side. See if there's a wet brown stain under the master cylinder streaking down the firewall. Also make sure you check the slave cylinder. Slave cylinder is bolted to the "bell" shaped bell housing of the tranny attached to a BLACK fork with a rubber boot on the very front and to the passenger side of the motor. Its cylindrical and maybe 3x1 inch...can't miss it.

You said there's like black rust colored fluid in it...says to me its probably long overdue on being flushed out. That said it might not be a bad idea to flush the brakes as well. Try to avoid pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, doing so allows rust on the end of the shaft (cuz it doesn't usually move that far) to contact your seals. I suggest (and you can do it yourself this way to) hooking a vacuum hose to the bleeder and then dip it in brake fluid. It will squirt and bubble out, but air can't re-enter the system this way and you can take as many small pumps as you like! To bleed the clutch however you'll probably need a vacuum pumper since its such a small stroke of fluid that moves. That said I probably need to flush mine out too!

 

Thanks for all of the help.

It appears the line that connects to the slave cylinder has the leak.

It crosses the firewall and makes a turn in the back passenger side corner of the car, its rotted bad there.

I have some pics.





Can this line/hose be purchased anywhere online? Anyone know where I can pick it up?

Thanks,

Nick

 

I found a few online. Is the slave cylinder located right on the tranny?

Most of the hoses i've found say from Master Cylinder outlet to Slave Cylinder Inlet. Is that what I'm looking for?

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

from master cyl outlet to slave inlet is spot on.

good luck!

 

Well apparantely I received the wrong part. The part I received is about 6 inches long. However, I did figure out the right part I need.

The part # I need is 46960-SV4-A00 and is called Pipe Assy - clutch.

Its #13 in the picture.

http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no

 

Ok, so I replaced the line and it is not leaking anymore.

I then proceeded to bleed the system thoroughly. (about 15 pump and hold downs)

The clutch slowly started to come up from the floor, and is now actually springing back, however,

The clutch now engages and releases very low on the pedal. It was around the top before, but almost seems like it is not springy enough.

Any Ideas?

Maybe it still needs an even better bleed?

Thanks in Advance

 

this happened to me tuesday. number 15 took a dump on me. replaced it, bled the clutch. drain and filled the tranny and never looked back

 

I have noticed that on the older models the Master craps out due to age!

on the inside of ur car check under the dash.......on the clutch pedal at the very end......check the area for leaks!

if theres oily residue the master is bad........replace!

 

possible master cylinder issue, if the fluid res isn't loosing any fluid it generally means it is the master that is internally bleeding, is there a lot of play in the pedal?

 

he kinda said he already fixed it

 

Ok again, I am not losing ANY fluid anymore. I replaced the line (#13 in the diagram) and started the bleeding process. I bled the system with about 15 pump and hold downs.

The pedal doesn't have much play in it at all. It is springing back, however the clutch is engaging and disengaging further down on the pedal.

For example, before I could let the pedal out about 4 inches+ before it would disengage, now it's like 1-2 inches before fully engaged. It used to release around the top of the pedal, now its middle/bottom.

I know it took alot of bleeding before the clutch even started to come back.

There is no fluid at all around the master or slave cylinders. (this is how I figured out it was the hose)

Thanks for all the responses. Let me know if anyone has any ideas.

Nick

 

I recetly bled my clutch and it took forever. I went through a whole bottle of brake fluid before I was able to get all the air out. You might try bleeding it a little bit more. You can also adjust the clutch pedal height. The rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder can be turned to let the pedal in or out, you can try adjusting that too.

 

I'd say tou still have air in the hydraulics.

Note that the slave cylinder is very horizontal, so if the car were sitting at an angle (with left side lower) then the bleed nipple could be at a lower point than the extreme right side of the slave cylinder, so an air buble could get caught there(?). Elevating the left side of the car a bit might help...

 

u might just need to eventually replace the clutch anyways if the leaking has made the clutch feel different it could be because the clutch is going out granted it might take a while mine has been going out for a while i just havent replaced mine the leak could have just made the clutch worse.

 

I check the hydraulic system, its possible you got a leak or your slave cylinder or clutch master could have went, from what i was told thats very common for them to go.

 

How was replacing that #13 clutch hardline? I had to install one in my automatic when I did a swap and it was a pain. The pedal should be letting out closer to the floor than towards the top but I of course cant tell, but your saying it feels wrong, try checking the pedal specs and make sure the heights are good prior to bleeding, this helped mine.

 

According to the fates I assume you have fixed this problem by now. But, if you haven't I have a 1992 Accord Sedan 4 cyl that had the same problem. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder and bled that and the master cylender I dont know how many times. My problem ended up being the tubber boot inside the master cylinder the fluid was just leaking right past it. I replaced the master cylinder after replacing the slave cylinder and bled again and problem fixed. Why I don't know. I also, bled some fluif out of the new clutch slave cylinder and then pushed the rod into the cylinder . This left no pressure on the fork, So I pulled the rubber boot off the fork and with my finger rubbed some (molybedium grease) ( If I am rememebring the right name of the correct special grease), (purchased from Honda) anyway I rubbed it on the rod in front of and behind the throwout bearing. My problems were solved. Also when changing the clutch master cylinder I bought three brand new OEM ones from honda and thn the third one worked as expected as I was bleeding. I was doing my brakes at the same time and with that as I said the fluid was just going right past the rubber boot inside the master cylinder that is supposed to push the fluid to create the pressure. I don't know if this helps or not, but don't assume you can't buy a bad new slave cylinder more than once in a row. for me it was three.