I've searched...need some experts on a swap in a VX.
Ok, here's what I'm trying to do. Got a 95 Vx that I've swapped a d16z6 into (removed the stock d15z1). Due to the nature of this experiment (MPG) I kept the VX trans. I wound up using the stock IM/TB combo (to retain the EGR). The car starts/runs, no CEL, etc...But it is a bigger pooch than the stock motor!
I mean like DANGEROUSLY SLOW! Anyway, I need to know if someone has experience in converting a 5-wire O2 setup to a 4-wire O2. Of course, I also wonder if the tiny IM and intake is just choking the crap outta the z6! I've been racking my brain (and searching the net) for any insight on this bizarre project.
IF you have any constructive advice or knowledge (or can point me to some) please post up. Let's see what you got
Ben
I mean like DANGEROUSLY SLOW! Anyway, I need to know if someone has experience in converting a 5-wire O2 setup to a 4-wire O2. Of course, I also wonder if the tiny IM and intake is just choking the crap outta the z6! I've been racking my brain (and searching the net) for any insight on this bizarre project.
IF you have any constructive advice or knowledge (or can point me to some) please post up. Let's see what you got
Ben
the P07 ECU with the D16Z6 engine will run dog slow. (lean and ign retarded) It will also over heat the engine when at cruising speeds due to the lean burn mode. (by overheat I mean the combustion chamber and EGTs, not engine temps)
If you're using a P28 and a four wire O2, then you're better off running the entire Z6 setup.
BUT be sure to chip the ECU and have it tuned with the different trans gearing. The CX/VX trans will cause the P28 to think that it's in 4th when it's in 3rd. (just an example, all the gears will be off)
IMO, drop to the Z6 trans and an unchipped P28, I have a box stock 93EX that I pull 35-38mpg with all the time. (mixed driving, but my right foot weighs more than my left foot)
tuning is going to cost you, since you can't just get a "tuned" chip with the different trans settings. You have to at least have it street tuned.
If you're using a P28 and a four wire O2, then you're better off running the entire Z6 setup.
BUT be sure to chip the ECU and have it tuned with the different trans gearing. The CX/VX trans will cause the P28 to think that it's in 4th when it's in 3rd. (just an example, all the gears will be off)
IMO, drop to the Z6 trans and an unchipped P28, I have a box stock 93EX that I pull 35-38mpg with all the time. (mixed driving, but my right foot weighs more than my left foot)
tuning is going to cost you, since you can't just get a "tuned" chip with the different trans settings. You have to at least have it street tuned.
that's no $hit on being dog slow with the p07. I forgot to mention that I did try running the car with a stock p28 and it's still slow (and had CEL 41-O2 heater). And, i guess that you're saying that a stock p28 will be getting a different signal from the speed sensor causing it to 'see' a different gear than what is actually selected?
What do you think as far as the IM sizing for the z6?
I'm doing this for a friend of mine that refuses to use the z6 trans. so I'm looking at 5wire to 4wire O2 conversion and chipping a p28 with at least a street tune.
OR, just install the z6 trans, 5wire to 4wire, and plug in the p28.
either way...it sounds like I need to figure out the 5wire to 4wire conversion.
Oh, and thanks for the response.
What do you think as far as the IM sizing for the z6?
I'm doing this for a friend of mine that refuses to use the z6 trans. so I'm looking at 5wire to 4wire O2 conversion and chipping a p28 with at least a street tune.
OR, just install the z6 trans, 5wire to 4wire, and plug in the p28.
either way...it sounds like I need to figure out the 5wire to 4wire conversion.
Oh, and thanks for the response.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioguru76 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's no $hit on being dog slow with the p07. I forgot to mention that I did try running the car with a stock p28 and it's still slow (and had CEL 41-O2 heater). And, i guess that you're saying that a stock p28 will be getting a different signal from the speed sensor causing it to 'see' a different gear than what is actually selected?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the ECU knows what ratios are in the trans. It uses this to determine what gear it's in (mph vs rpm) since the load is different in 5th and 1st it compensates using this info. It's used in a few other places too but that's the main one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you think as far as the IM sizing for the z6? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think starving the Z6 isn't going to help anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm doing this for a friend of mine that refuses to use the z6 trans. so I'm looking at 5wire to 4wire O2 conversion and chipping a p28 with at least a street tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the conversion is not that difficult, it's been well documented on here a few times.
Are you using the VX engine harness or the Z6 engine harness?
The z6 engine harness will make things easier on you, just move one wire at the shock tower plugs and it will work perfectly.
the ECU knows what ratios are in the trans. It uses this to determine what gear it's in (mph vs rpm) since the load is different in 5th and 1st it compensates using this info. It's used in a few other places too but that's the main one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you think as far as the IM sizing for the z6? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think starving the Z6 isn't going to help anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm doing this for a friend of mine that refuses to use the z6 trans. so I'm looking at 5wire to 4wire O2 conversion and chipping a p28 with at least a street tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the conversion is not that difficult, it's been well documented on here a few times.
Are you using the VX engine harness or the Z6 engine harness?
The z6 engine harness will make things easier on you, just move one wire at the shock tower plugs and it will work perfectly.
kinda what I was thinking on the IM.
and Im using the VX harness, because the motor I got didn't have a harness.
So, I'll put the z6 IM on the motor. Re-pin/convert to 4wire O2, install the p28.
funny that when I plugged the p28 in, the only CEL I got was O2 heater.
which I'm sure i can solve with the O2 conversion.
and Im using the VX harness, because the motor I got didn't have a harness.
So, I'll put the z6 IM on the motor. Re-pin/convert to 4wire O2, install the p28.
funny that when I plugged the p28 in, the only CEL I got was O2 heater.
which I'm sure i can solve with the O2 conversion.
the heater code is because the P07 uses a battery control signal from the ECU to turn on the heater, and a ground feed wire from the O2 to complete the path.
The P28 uses a ground signal from the ECU to turn on the heater, and a 12V feed wire from the O2 to complete the path.
It will eventually set the CEL for Primary O2 as well, but it's slower. (CEL 1)
you will need to run a 12V wire from the O2 heater wire to the 12V ignition bundle at the driver's shock tower.
you will have the following wires at the VX O2 plug.
orange/blue
orange
white/blue
yellow/black
black
match them up to the 4-wire O2 as follows.
orange/blue - O2 signal (typically white)
new wire, splice into D22 at ECU or green/white at IAT or TPS - O2 reference ground (typically green)
yellow/black - heater control (typically black)
new wire, splice into driver's shock tower yellow/black cluster of wires - O2 heater feed (typically black)
the rest of the wires, tape up and tuck out of the way. Remove them if you feel like it.
hopefully that makes sense.
The P28 uses a ground signal from the ECU to turn on the heater, and a 12V feed wire from the O2 to complete the path.
It will eventually set the CEL for Primary O2 as well, but it's slower. (CEL 1)
you will need to run a 12V wire from the O2 heater wire to the 12V ignition bundle at the driver's shock tower.
you will have the following wires at the VX O2 plug.
orange/blue
orange
white/blue
yellow/black
black
match them up to the 4-wire O2 as follows.
orange/blue - O2 signal (typically white)
new wire, splice into D22 at ECU or green/white at IAT or TPS - O2 reference ground (typically green)
yellow/black - heater control (typically black)
new wire, splice into driver's shock tower yellow/black cluster of wires - O2 heater feed (typically black)
the rest of the wires, tape up and tuck out of the way. Remove them if you feel like it.
hopefully that makes sense.
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