d16z6 swap
05-23-2007, 03:14 AM
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d16z6 swap
I have a 92 civic vx and Im looking to swap a d16z6 into my car. As it is, my car runs great, i just ******* hate it because its to damned slow. anyways, i'd like to keep my ac, what is needed for me to complete the swap? im also located in so cal, so if any of you guys know anybody that's looking to get rid of a d16 swap, let me know. Has to have decent mileage on it. Thanks!
05-23-2007, 05:29 AM
#2
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Re: d16z6 swap (all_motor)
just get the d16z6 and the z6 engine harness and ecu
it is almost a 100% plug and play swap.
the only thing you need to wire is the o2 sensor since you have a vx.
i believe there is a writeup in the faq at the top on how to do the 02 sensor wiring.
it is almost a 100% plug and play swap.
the only thing you need to wire is the o2 sensor since you have a vx.
i believe there is a writeup in the faq at the top on how to do the 02 sensor wiring.
05-23-2007, 05:35 AM
#3
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Re: d16z6 swap (92ehatch)
from another thread on a civic vx using a p28 thanks b18c5-eh2 and DaX
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
Lots of replies, none completely correct.
Nobody has mentioned the 5 wire o2 sensor that's on a stock Civic VX.
You would need to rewire the oxygen sensor to a 4-wire configuration and run the D16Z6's 4-wire o2 sensor to make it work, so no it's not 100% plug and play as it's being touted. Basically look up the correct ECU pin-outs for a 92-95 EX/Si computer and run 4 wires to the pin locations, and then to a matching plug (you can get this from a salvage car) out to the o2 sensor. The pins at the ECU do not match up even if you run the D16Z6 engine harness, becdause the wiring from the shock tower to the ECU plugs in the chassis harness is different for the o2 sensor.
Also forget about using a VX ECU with the D16Z6, because the VX also has EGR while the D16Z6 doesn't - meaning you'd have a forever check engine light and certainly fail your smog check.
Will it pass sog this way? I have no idea because I'm in GA, not CA.
Good luck.
Nobody has mentioned the 5 wire o2 sensor that's on a stock Civic VX.
You would need to rewire the oxygen sensor to a 4-wire configuration and run the D16Z6's 4-wire o2 sensor to make it work, so no it's not 100% plug and play as it's being touted. Basically look up the correct ECU pin-outs for a 92-95 EX/Si computer and run 4 wires to the pin locations, and then to a matching plug (you can get this from a salvage car) out to the o2 sensor. The pins at the ECU do not match up even if you run the D16Z6 engine harness, becdause the wiring from the shock tower to the ECU plugs in the chassis harness is different for the o2 sensor.
Also forget about using a VX ECU with the D16Z6, because the VX also has EGR while the D16Z6 doesn't - meaning you'd have a forever check engine light and certainly fail your smog check.
Will it pass sog this way? I have no idea because I'm in GA, not CA.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by DaX
Ok, let's see if I can clarify this all in one post.
*You're using a P28 in a VX chassis with the Z1 engine harness. This is so you can use a 4-wire o2 sensor, which the P28 requires, while retaining the original engine harness and not having to re-wire for VTEC.
*You're going to need a donor 4-wire o2 plug that you chop off of another engine harness...or you can run wires directly to the ECU [I can't do that...I'm a neat freak].
*Get a good 4-wire o2 sensor. I highly recommend the NTK sensor.
************************************************** *******
You can either do it like I did...where I use a plug from a donor harness and run all the wires inside the harness, so that you don't have ugly random wires running all over the place....or you can run wires from the sensor directly to the ECU.
1. If using it, your 4-wire plug from the donor harness will be female [the plug on the o2 sensor is male] and will have the following wires coming from it:
GRN/WHT
WHT
ORN/BLK
YEL/BLK
2. The Z1 engine harness actually has 7 wires going to the plug for the 5-wire o2 sensor, and they are as follows:
GRN/WHT
ORN/BLU
YEL/BLK
BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN
3. Four of these wires in the Z1 harness will not be used. The ones not being used are:
BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN
4. These unused wires go to the control circuit in the P07 ECU for the wideband sensor, and it will not hurt for them to not be connected to anything. I recommend wrapping them up pretty good with some electrical tape though.
5. Cut the 5-wire o2 plug [actually containing 7 wires] off of the Z1 harness [you may actually want to simply splice the following wires in so you could always switch back to using the wideband sensor and the P07 ECU...that is up to you], and solder/connect the following wires:
o2 Wires | 4-wire plug | VX Harness | ECU Pinout | Function
GRN--------GRN/WHT----GRN/WHT--------D22-------Sensor Ground
WHT----------WHT--------ORN/BLU---------D14-------o2 Sensor Output Signal
BLK---------ORN/BLK-----YEL/BLK----------A6--------Heater Control [Ground]
BLK---------YEL/BLK---*SEE PARAGRAPH BELOW*--12V Switched
6. As you no doubt know, the ECU of the Honda PGMFI system activates sensors by grounding them out...the sensors are fed constant power. One of the BLK o2 wires [the one going to the YEL/BLK wire on the 4-wire plug] is where the 12V switched goes into the sensor. For running wires directly to the ECU, you can use either Pin A25 or B1 at the ECU...both of which are YEL/BLK and are 12V switched.
7. I did mine different. Instead of feeding the sensor 12V from the ECU, I fed the sensor 12V from where it would come from in the harness if it were a Z6 harness. On the driver shock tower, there is the infamous "dead end plug" with 8 YEL/BLK wires running to it [if it's a Z6 harness], or 7 YEL/BLK wires running to it, in this case with a Z1 harness. This "dead end plug" is a 12V power distribution point for many control devices on the engine. The wires to this plug go to the following things:
*12V in to the distribution plug [don't know where this comes from]
*12V to Injector #1
*12V to Injector #2
*12V to Injector #3
*12V to Injector #4
*12V to IACV
*12V to Charcoal Canister Purge Solenoid
*12V to 4-wire o2 sensor [on the Z6 harness]. This wire is not present on the Z1 harness.
You can connect one of the black wires on the o2 sensor [or the YEL/BLK wire on the plug from the donor harness if you're doing it that way] to any one of these wires. You can even run a wire and pin it at the empty 8th place on the dead end plug if you want. Quik Chris simply tapped into the YEL/BLK wire right at the Injector #4 plug. I removed my harness, unwound the loom, and tapped into the YEL/BLK 12V power wire going to the IACV. Any of them will do fine, and if you do it this way, you will not have unsightly wires anywhere, and all your wiring will be internal to the harness, meaning you won't have to cut wires or have more connections when removing the harness.
*****************************************
I hope this was helpful and not too confusing. I'm always ready to help people on this site...because they help me when I need it. If something needs clarifying, someone wants pictures, or if someone notices a mistake in my method, please post/PM/email me.
Modified by DaX at 2:35 PM 10/20/2004
*You're using a P28 in a VX chassis with the Z1 engine harness. This is so you can use a 4-wire o2 sensor, which the P28 requires, while retaining the original engine harness and not having to re-wire for VTEC.
*You're going to need a donor 4-wire o2 plug that you chop off of another engine harness...or you can run wires directly to the ECU [I can't do that...I'm a neat freak].
*Get a good 4-wire o2 sensor. I highly recommend the NTK sensor.
************************************************** *******
You can either do it like I did...where I use a plug from a donor harness and run all the wires inside the harness, so that you don't have ugly random wires running all over the place....or you can run wires from the sensor directly to the ECU.
1. If using it, your 4-wire plug from the donor harness will be female [the plug on the o2 sensor is male] and will have the following wires coming from it:
GRN/WHT
WHT
ORN/BLK
YEL/BLK
2. The Z1 engine harness actually has 7 wires going to the plug for the 5-wire o2 sensor, and they are as follows:
GRN/WHT
ORN/BLU
YEL/BLK
BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN
3. Four of these wires in the Z1 harness will not be used. The ones not being used are:
BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN
4. These unused wires go to the control circuit in the P07 ECU for the wideband sensor, and it will not hurt for them to not be connected to anything. I recommend wrapping them up pretty good with some electrical tape though.
5. Cut the 5-wire o2 plug [actually containing 7 wires] off of the Z1 harness [you may actually want to simply splice the following wires in so you could always switch back to using the wideband sensor and the P07 ECU...that is up to you], and solder/connect the following wires:
o2 Wires | 4-wire plug | VX Harness | ECU Pinout | Function
GRN--------GRN/WHT----GRN/WHT--------D22-------Sensor Ground
WHT----------WHT--------ORN/BLU---------D14-------o2 Sensor Output Signal
BLK---------ORN/BLK-----YEL/BLK----------A6--------Heater Control [Ground]
BLK---------YEL/BLK---*SEE PARAGRAPH BELOW*--12V Switched
6. As you no doubt know, the ECU of the Honda PGMFI system activates sensors by grounding them out...the sensors are fed constant power. One of the BLK o2 wires [the one going to the YEL/BLK wire on the 4-wire plug] is where the 12V switched goes into the sensor. For running wires directly to the ECU, you can use either Pin A25 or B1 at the ECU...both of which are YEL/BLK and are 12V switched.
7. I did mine different. Instead of feeding the sensor 12V from the ECU, I fed the sensor 12V from where it would come from in the harness if it were a Z6 harness. On the driver shock tower, there is the infamous "dead end plug" with 8 YEL/BLK wires running to it [if it's a Z6 harness], or 7 YEL/BLK wires running to it, in this case with a Z1 harness. This "dead end plug" is a 12V power distribution point for many control devices on the engine. The wires to this plug go to the following things:
*12V in to the distribution plug [don't know where this comes from]
*12V to Injector #1
*12V to Injector #2
*12V to Injector #3
*12V to Injector #4
*12V to IACV
*12V to Charcoal Canister Purge Solenoid
*12V to 4-wire o2 sensor [on the Z6 harness]. This wire is not present on the Z1 harness.
You can connect one of the black wires on the o2 sensor [or the YEL/BLK wire on the plug from the donor harness if you're doing it that way] to any one of these wires. You can even run a wire and pin it at the empty 8th place on the dead end plug if you want. Quik Chris simply tapped into the YEL/BLK wire right at the Injector #4 plug. I removed my harness, unwound the loom, and tapped into the YEL/BLK 12V power wire going to the IACV. Any of them will do fine, and if you do it this way, you will not have unsightly wires anywhere, and all your wiring will be internal to the harness, meaning you won't have to cut wires or have more connections when removing the harness.
*****************************************
I hope this was helpful and not too confusing. I'm always ready to help people on this site...because they help me when I need it. If something needs clarifying, someone wants pictures, or if someone notices a mistake in my method, please post/PM/email me.
Modified by DaX at 2:35 PM 10/20/2004
05-23-2007, 05:41 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap (92ehatch)
just get the swap and the z6 harness and ecu and everything will bolt right up and plug right in.. no need to worry about the extra plug at the shock tower for the 5 wire.. my vx was just bolt in and go... have fun 
05-23-2007, 05:58 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap
same **** with me... vx is toooo slow. lol. anyways, im doing it the hard way, just got a d16z6 motor from my friend and it came with an engine harness and ecu. Only thing i did different than everyone else is that i brought an ex body harness from ebay so the motor would be plug and play with out fuking around with the o2 thingy and also i could now have power locks and windows with no mods.
05-23-2007, 06:01 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap (truevietluv636)
A lot of the problems with the vx is just the tranny. I'd just get an ex/si tranny and boost it.
the z6 isn't that much of an upgrade if you're actually looking to go much faster. But by all means if you have the money for the swap AND boost, that's what I'd do.
the z6 isn't that much of an upgrade if you're actually looking to go much faster. But by all means if you have the money for the swap AND boost, that's what I'd do.
05-23-2007, 06:23 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap (truevietluv636)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by truevietluv636 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same **** with me... vx is toooo slow. lol. anyways, im doing it the hard way, just got a d16z6 motor from my friend and it came with an engine harness and ecu. Only thing i did different than everyone else is that i brought an ex body harness from ebay so the motor would be plug and play with out fuking around with the o2 thingy and also i could now have power locks and windows with no mods. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you dont need to worry about the o2 if you have the z6 engine harness.. when i did mine i just plugged everything up.. there will be an extra plug on the pass side shock tower that will not be used.. it'll run just fine.. thats how i ran mine 4-5 years ago
you dont need to worry about the o2 if you have the z6 engine harness.. when i did mine i just plugged everything up.. there will be an extra plug on the pass side shock tower that will not be used.. it'll run just fine.. thats how i ran mine 4-5 years ago
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05-23-2007, 06:50 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lots of replies, none completely correct.
Nobody has mentioned the 5 wire o2 sensor that's on a stock Civic VX.
You would need to rewire the oxygen sensor to a 4-wire configuration and run the D16Z6's 4-wire o2 sensor to make it work, so no it's not 100% plug and play as it's being touted. Basically look up the correct ECU pin-outs for a 92-95 EX/Si computer and run 4 wires to the pin locations, and then to a matching plug (you can get this from a salvage car) out to the o2 sensor. The pins at the ECU do not match up even if you run the D16Z6 engine harness, becdause the wiring from the shock tower to the ECU plugs in the chassis harness is different for the o2 sensor.
Also forget about using a VX ECU with the D16Z6, because the VX also has EGR while the D16Z6 doesn't - meaning you'd have a forever check engine light and certainly fail your smog check.
Will it pass sog this way? I have no idea because I'm in GA, not CA.
Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g23_ej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you dont need to worry about the o2 if you have the z6 engine harness.. when i did mine i just plugged everything up.. there will be an extra plug on the pass side shock tower that will not be used.. it'll run just fine.. thats how i ran mine 4-5 years ago </TD></TR></TABLE>
who to believe??? lol.
Lots of replies, none completely correct.
Nobody has mentioned the 5 wire o2 sensor that's on a stock Civic VX.
You would need to rewire the oxygen sensor to a 4-wire configuration and run the D16Z6's 4-wire o2 sensor to make it work, so no it's not 100% plug and play as it's being touted. Basically look up the correct ECU pin-outs for a 92-95 EX/Si computer and run 4 wires to the pin locations, and then to a matching plug (you can get this from a salvage car) out to the o2 sensor. The pins at the ECU do not match up even if you run the D16Z6 engine harness, becdause the wiring from the shock tower to the ECU plugs in the chassis harness is different for the o2 sensor.
Also forget about using a VX ECU with the D16Z6, because the VX also has EGR while the D16Z6 doesn't - meaning you'd have a forever check engine light and certainly fail your smog check.
Will it pass sog this way? I have no idea because I'm in GA, not CA.
Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g23_ej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you dont need to worry about the o2 if you have the z6 engine harness.. when i did mine i just plugged everything up.. there will be an extra plug on the pass side shock tower that will not be used.. it'll run just fine.. thats how i ran mine 4-5 years ago </TD></TR></TABLE>
who to believe??? lol.
05-23-2007, 07:49 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap (truevietluv636)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by truevietluv636 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
who to believe??? lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^
Word.
Anyways, Im doing this swap so I can pass up traffic a bit easier and whatnot this is my beater, I have another car I track.
With this swap, can I still keep my AC?
who to believe??? lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^
Word.
Anyways, Im doing this swap so I can pass up traffic a bit easier and whatnot this is my beater, I have another car I track.
With this swap, can I still keep my AC?
05-23-2007, 10:37 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap (truevietluv636)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by truevietluv636 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
who to believe??? lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know but thats how i did mine a few years back.. i just plugged everything up and it ran fine and dandy...
who to believe??? lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know but thats how i did mine a few years back.. i just plugged everything up and it ran fine and dandy...
05-23-2007, 11:57 AM
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Re: d16z6 swap (truevietluv636)
i had a vx with the 5 wire.. if i remember correctly there are 4 plugs instead of 3 at the pass. shock tower.. you will only use 3 off the z6 and the extra plug was for the 5 wire.. i didnt use that plug and everything went well.. i didnt have to re-wire anything for the 4 wire.. i just swapped motors, used z6 harness and p28, no CEL etc.. 
05-23-2007, 12:46 PM
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im sure all you need is a d16z6 and the ecu (p28) since your d15z1 (vx) is pre vtec wired already. good luck on the swap. it should do u a lot better.
05-23-2007, 01:15 PM
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Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If somene actually asked me who to believe between b18c5_eh2 and anyone else, I'd believe b18c5_eh2.
Not a hard decision
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and you know what i would too.. i know hes been around for a few years and has done tons of amazing write up, but ive done this swap personally.. 92 vx swapped z6 and had to do nothing.. now really i dont care if anyone believes me or not but i sure did it..
Not a hard decision
</TD></TR></TABLE>and you know what i would too.. i know hes been around for a few years and has done tons of amazing write up, but ive done this swap personally.. 92 vx swapped z6 and had to do nothing.. now really i dont care if anyone believes me or not but i sure did it..
05-23-2007, 01:23 PM
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Re: (g23_ej1)
When im done with rebuilding my motor i'll swap it in with the vx harness and see whats up. This wont be soon though, kinda broke right now and cant afford to rebuild. lol.
05-23-2007, 09:47 PM
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Re: (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerEH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im sure all you need is a d16z6 and the ecu (p28) since your d15z1 (vx) is pre vtec wired already. good luck on the swap. it should do u a lot better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet. So I should be fine with my vx tranny right?
So all I need is;
d16z6 motor
p28 ecu
d16z6 engine harness
??
Thanks!
Sweet. So I should be fine with my vx tranny right?
So all I need is;
d16z6 motor
p28 ecu
d16z6 engine harness
??
Thanks!
05-24-2007, 03:10 AM
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Re: (all_motor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all_motor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sweet. So I should be fine with my vx tranny right?
So all I need is;
d16z6 motor
p28 ecu
d16z6 engine harness
??
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
you'll be fine, but why would you even want to bother with that tranny? spend another 100 and buy yourself a z6 or a y8 trans.. im sure i speak for everyone when i say this, but trust me.. you'll be 100000x's happier..
swapping out the z1 for the z6 is going to give you about 20hp but with that trans you're not going to really feel much
Sweet. So I should be fine with my vx tranny right?
So all I need is;
d16z6 motor
p28 ecu
d16z6 engine harness
??
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
you'll be fine, but why would you even want to bother with that tranny? spend another 100 and buy yourself a z6 or a y8 trans.. im sure i speak for everyone when i say this, but trust me.. you'll be 100000x's happier..
swapping out the z1 for the z6 is going to give you about 20hp but with that trans you're not going to really feel much
05-24-2007, 05:38 AM
#21
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Re: (g23_ej1)
you can get a d16z6 with tranny for 300 - 500 bucks.
i only paid 200 for my z6 without tranny.
lemme tell you something....its not all that great with the d15b7 tranny...sure 2nd to almost 85mph is great and all...but it takes FOREVER to get there.
i only paid 200 for my z6 without tranny.
lemme tell you something....its not all that great with the d15b7 tranny...sure 2nd to almost 85mph is great and all...but it takes FOREVER to get there.
05-24-2007, 07:01 PM
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Re: (92ehatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g23_ej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you'll be fine, but why would you even want to bother with that tranny? spend another 100 and buy yourself a z6 or a y8 trans.. im sure i speak for everyone when i say this, but trust me.. you'll be 100000x's happier..
swapping out the z1 for the z6 is going to give you about 20hp but with that trans you're not going to really feel much </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks.
you'll be fine, but why would you even want to bother with that tranny? spend another 100 and buy yourself a z6 or a y8 trans.. im sure i speak for everyone when i say this, but trust me.. you'll be 100000x's happier..
swapping out the z1 for the z6 is going to give you about 20hp but with that trans you're not going to really feel much </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks.
05-24-2007, 09:59 PM
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Re: (all_motor)
Is there anything I should look out for when buying one? My VX has two catalytic converters, will I still need to run both?
Modified by all_motor at 3:24 AM 5/25/2007
Modified by all_motor at 3:24 AM 5/25/2007
06-02-2007, 07:44 PM
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Re: (all_motor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also forget about using a VX ECU with the D16Z6, because the VX also has EGR while the D16Z6 doesn't - meaning you'd have a forever check engine light and certainly fail your smog check.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok. I just got my d16z6 and I'm swapping it in, I got the z6 harness with it, but I didn't get the z6 ecu, I have the VX ECU I will be using. Will there be any more problems than this if I use the VX ECU?
Ok. I just got my d16z6 and I'm swapping it in, I got the z6 harness with it, but I didn't get the z6 ecu, I have the VX ECU I will be using. Will there be any more problems than this if I use the VX ECU?