Some info to help you help me:
1996 ek4 hatch
full gsr swap


I swapped a b18c1 into my car (ek4hatch) and am experiencing some bogging in the lower rpm's (1,750-3,500) I have enquired from intelligence greater than my own and I have been recommended to change my dizzy, fuel filter, and TDC wiring and sensor. All of the recommendations have been made to me on separate occasions, first it was the dizzy (went through 3 of them) I would put a new dizzy on, and the car would run great for a week then vtec stopped working. So from this point I put another dizzy on, and another. The third dizzy did the trick as far as vtec goes. Then it was bogging we checked the code that the check light put out and it was for the TDC. After repairing that I felt the battle was over, I was wrong. Three days passed and I felt bogging again. From this point I was recommended to change my fuel filter (I did) and it ran just beautiful for a week and now its back to the boggggggggg. All of these recommendations are from a buddy of mine who owns a shop and works mainly on Hondas (maintenance and performance) he is knowledgeable but this has left us both scratching our heads. Could it possibly be the harness?

Thanks for reading, all suggestions appreciated…

 

BUMP

 

please any ideas!?

 

you said that you changed your fuel filter and it ran good? change it again might have nasty fuel.

 

nope, no better =[


bump help

 

if he owns a shop then he should know how to check the wiring on it. but without looking at a wiring diagram I am not 100% but I am pretty sure that is a hall effect sensor so basicly what you get is 5v coming in then as the dist shaft spins around a magnent sweeps across it droping the 5v and showing the computer were tdc is. so first make sure that you have 5v coming in then you will probally need a scope that you can get a graph to watch it but just watch the signal wire and make sure that it is dropping the voltage and that the signal is not distorted, if all looks good at the dist. then move on to the signal wire at the computer you should see the same readings that you saw at the dist. so if you dont then you have either a short, a open, or depending on weather you have ever driven the vehicle without this problem maybe it is not going to the right pin on the ecu.