ek d16 into eg
ive searched and couldnt find what im looking for, anyways.
if i swapped a d16 from a ek into a d15 eg hatch what parts would i need for sure? ive got to get everything from a car within one day and dont want to miss anything lol. thanks
if i swapped a d16 from a ek into a d15 eg hatch what parts would i need for sure? ive got to get everything from a car within one day and dont want to miss anything lol. thanks
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You need the "eg" D series complete intake manifold with fuel injectors, sensors, etc.
You need the "eg" TB.
You need an OBD1 ECU for everything to be simple.
You need the manifold from the "eg" D series.
"eg" D series throttle cable.
Obviously, use the mounts for the "eg".
The manifold and related parts are the only things that really cause issues..otherwise it's a bolt in swap.
You need the "eg" TB.
You need an OBD1 ECU for everything to be simple.
You need the manifold from the "eg" D series.
"eg" D series throttle cable.
Obviously, use the mounts for the "eg".
The manifold and related parts are the only things that really cause issues..otherwise it's a bolt in swap.
basically i could use the eg harness and everything? just not the parts you mentioned? i thought for some reason i would need the ecu, wiring, axles(maybe) and shift linkage
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the easiest thing to do is to NOT change the wire harness.
The 92-95 and the 96+ harness are completely different. The 96+ harness is a 2 peice harness to start.
The easiest, most logical thing is to just change out the sensors that require different plugs. I already mentioned that the intake manifold and all sensors on the intake manifold need to be switched back to OBD1 (Use a "eg" intake manifold and sensors/injectors/everything else on the intake "eg" manifold).
The sensors are just bolt in and plug in...so it's a lot easier to change those than to change the plugs.
The sensors NOT on the intake manifold should all the be same anyway. Obviously, you'd delete or ignore the CKF sensor.
You'd have to use the OBD2 distributor because of how it fits on the head. Depending on the type of connector you have on the distributor, you may need to solder on a connector.
The OBD1 connector is a large connector. Some 96+ connectors are the small type. Basically, if the distributor connector you have now plugs into your OBD1 harness, you have the right connector.
OBD1 has a small subharness on the distributor (2 wires) that OBD2 distributors do not have. Don't worry. The wires are still there.
I believe it's a black/yellow (large) wire and a blue (small) wire that should be on the 2 pin distributor subharness on your OBD1 harness. See it?
I THINK that the wire colors are as I stated. Let's say they are. So then you just take the black/yellow wire and the blue wire from the OBD2 distributor and solder them onto the 2 wire subharness.
It sounds more confusing than it actually is.
The 92-95 and the 96+ harness are completely different. The 96+ harness is a 2 peice harness to start.
The easiest, most logical thing is to just change out the sensors that require different plugs. I already mentioned that the intake manifold and all sensors on the intake manifold need to be switched back to OBD1 (Use a "eg" intake manifold and sensors/injectors/everything else on the intake "eg" manifold).
The sensors are just bolt in and plug in...so it's a lot easier to change those than to change the plugs.
The sensors NOT on the intake manifold should all the be same anyway. Obviously, you'd delete or ignore the CKF sensor.
You'd have to use the OBD2 distributor because of how it fits on the head. Depending on the type of connector you have on the distributor, you may need to solder on a connector.
The OBD1 connector is a large connector. Some 96+ connectors are the small type. Basically, if the distributor connector you have now plugs into your OBD1 harness, you have the right connector.
OBD1 has a small subharness on the distributor (2 wires) that OBD2 distributors do not have. Don't worry. The wires are still there.
I believe it's a black/yellow (large) wire and a blue (small) wire that should be on the 2 pin distributor subharness on your OBD1 harness. See it?
I THINK that the wire colors are as I stated. Let's say they are. So then you just take the black/yellow wire and the blue wire from the OBD2 distributor and solder them onto the 2 wire subharness.
It sounds more confusing than it actually is.
yea i see what you mean about the distributor wires, seems pretty simple. so i dont need the ek d16 ecu? i can just use the stock d15 one? thats the impression im getting...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sawedoffcoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i see what you mean about the distributor wires, seems pretty simple. so i dont need the ek d16 ecu? i can just use the stock d15 one? thats the impression im getting... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You use the stock D15 ECU. Your car will just think it's running the D15. It's easiest that way. The fuel maps are honestly not that different.
Using the OBD2 ECU would require either an OBD2 conversion harness, or an OBD2 harness spliced in (difficult). It would also require you to reuse all the OBD2 emissions equipment that is not present on your OBD1 car. You would also have to wire up the CKF.
Easy>Hard.
Use the D15 ECU.
You use the stock D15 ECU. Your car will just think it's running the D15. It's easiest that way. The fuel maps are honestly not that different.
Using the OBD2 ECU would require either an OBD2 conversion harness, or an OBD2 harness spliced in (difficult). It would also require you to reuse all the OBD2 emissions equipment that is not present on your OBD1 car. You would also have to wire up the CKF.
Easy>Hard.
Use the D15 ECU.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sawedoffcoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh wicked, i should of mentioned i also have a p28 ecu, i believe its for the eg d16 also, would that be more suitable since its for a eg d16?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. the P28 is a VTEC ECU. If you have VTEC, the stock P28 is pefect for a D series.
If you do not have VTEC, just reuse your ECU that was on your stock D15 non VTEC engine.
No. the P28 is a VTEC ECU. If you have VTEC, the stock P28 is pefect for a D series.
If you do not have VTEC, just reuse your ECU that was on your stock D15 non VTEC engine.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sawedoffcoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the Eg non-vtec d16 ecu? i could get my hand on one but would it be more sufficent then using the d15?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no 92-95 non vtec 1.6L ecu. Just use the 1.5L ecu. For reals.
There is no 92-95 non vtec 1.6L ecu. Just use the 1.5L ecu. For reals.
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