Well first off im throwing codes: 3 (manifold absolute press.) 7 (throttle angle) 8 (tdc) 9 (No. 1 cyl) 10 (intake air temp) and 13 (atmosph. press.

where should i start? main thing is i need to get the engine started, i can work with it from there.

the dizzy has been replaced probably 3 times now, i have two reciepts from the previous owner exchange it for a new (remanuf.) and the from the oldest dated reciept was an exchange. i contacted oriely's and found out that it is for 91, i just thought about the fact that i didn't ask if it was for a 1.6l but i can see 2morrow.

on the backside of the block there is a plug coming from the wire harness for the coolant fan relay? i'm going to look into getting that sensor and installing it, shouldn't it be throwing a code???????? 6 for coolant temp. or no?

at this point i am open to all suggestions.

 

what ecu are you running?

 

I think you may have swapped the MAP and TPS plugs, try reversing them.
There are may reasons why the other codes are there, but I would have to be at your place with a tester to tell you what's wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what ecu are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

pm6, all obd0. when i got the car the guy told me obd1 and that it had p28 but after looking at it all, it's all setup of obd0 and he said it was running two weeks before i started looking at it, but that could be a lie as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxbore.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you may have swapped the MAP and TPS plugs, try reversing them.
There are may reasons why the other codes are there, but I would have to be at your place with a tester to tell you what's wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know where the TPS is located but im not sure where the map sensor is. how can i tell if they've been switch when i look at them?


Modified by gRim06 at 2:42 PM 6/22/2008

 

This was a "bump"........ Sorry mods, i have been online in a couple of months and hadn't read the new rules.



Modified by gRim06 at 8:33 PM 6/22/2008

 

ok i see that the MAP's wire harness comes from the fuse box cluster of wires from passenger side. it also has a two wire harness connected to the other part of this assembly on the center of the fire wall above the intake.

the wire harness for the tps is coming from the cluster of wires that includes: injectors, coolant sensors, o2 sensor, reverse switch, etc.

from that we can conclude that they are not switched.

the MAP sensor has a 4 or 5 wire connector on it that looks just like the one on the tps, and it also has a vaccum line that goes directly to the TB. the assembly above the intake, including the MAP sensor, has a vaccum line that is not connected. would that cause the code for the MAP?

 

Wow! yes Sr. that's the reason why you are having a MAP code. You need to connect the MAP to the TB. There might be two vacuum ports at the TB so make sure you connect it to the one to the right of the TB opening.

 

Ok, make sure we got this straight. my map sensor isn't bolted to that assembly, it's plugged in and has a vaccum going to the right of the TB like your talking about, and the other goes to the charcoal can. i don't have any screws that fit so i can't attach it back to that assembly right now.

the other part of that assembly has a 2 wire harness connected and it has at the bottom of it a vaccum going to the back of the intake. there is another vaccum close to the top of that cylinder thing w/ the two wire harness thats just there and does not have a home. i believe that its a breather that should go to the intake pipe to be filtered but i'm not sure of that. i know how similar zc's are to A6s and i don't remember seeing that anywhere on that intake.


Modified by gRim06 at 5:35 PM 6/22/2008

 

ok i stumble upon a vacuum diagram on the underside of my hood and saw that hose goes to the charcoal can.

but i still don't know why my ecu is throwing a MAP sensor code. should i check the voltage on that sensor? i'd sure hate to buy a replacement and that not be the problem, that thing is like $250. ouch!!

 

Did you connect the vaccum lines off the throttle body to the map sensor like he said? are you sure you dont have the connectors switched. On an EF the stock map is on the firewall, so you should see the wires from the maf connector tie into the rest of the wires in that area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you connect the vaccum lines off the throttle body to the map sensor like he said? are you sure you dont have the connectors switched. On an EF the stock map is on the firewall, so you should see the wires from the maf connector tie into the rest of the wires in that area. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i checked all that, i looked over my WHOLE Fn enging bay. that vacuum was connected, the vacuum from the little cylinder thing to the right of the map had a loose vacuum that suppose to go to the charcoal canister.

yesterday i dropped the oil out because the dipstick didn't have a drop on it. well there was about 2.5 to 3 quarts of dirty black oil in it. today when i got home from my first job i put 4 quarts exactly and still didn't get anything on the dipstick.

does it take 5 quarts or what??????????

anyway, after doin that and attaching that vacuum turn the key and checked the ecu again, same ol' thing.

since i was in broad daylight this time i noticed that the bottom plug looked funny. i gave it a lil' tug and it came right out. that's not suppose to happen i thought. i pushed it in tight and gave it a tug. it was good and locked in. i tried to start it and it DIDN'T EVEN TURN OVER, like it was the battery. thought about it and it made sense, from trying to start it and turning the key to look at the codes. i counted them several times to make sure i had it right, and i did it at night so i could see it good, that's why i didn't see the plug the first time.

it was time to go back to work, at my other job.

so when i got home about 2 hrs ago, i switched the battery from my DA, they'r exactly the same, brand new little enigizers. i checked the plugs on the ECU and then i turn the key and let the fuel pump prime, when it quit priming, the check engine light went off, just like it's suppose to. Needless to say it started right up.

it fired up real strong. i don't know where it cold idled at but when it warmed, it idled at 1 even. the swappers may have adjusted it that way, or either it needs to be adjusted. it also sounds like it might misfire or detonate every once in awhile on idle. maybe it needs to be timed again?