Ok i owned a 2000 civic dx coupe with y8 intake manifold on my dx motor.

Now I'm thinking should i do a mini me swap or just save for a turbo?

I found a guy selling a y8 head with all the goodies on it for 125.

still need a the p2p ecu that will run me 30 buck for sure and knock sensor.

Could I reuse the y7 timing belt because it pretty brand new also the y7 head stud?

so the total cost will be 195buck

I heard that the y8 head have more flow comparing to my y7 head.
plus that like 30hp more then what i putting on the y7motor.

so is it worth doing for 195buck?

oh the knock sensor do i have to tap a hole in the back of my block? or it should already have a hole but just need to be tap.

 

I was about to do a mini-swap not too long ago with a Z6 head and my D15B7 but I decided not to do it and just sold the head for profit. It didn't seem worth it to me because I've heard from many people that when they did thier mini-swaps, their engines never ran right.

If you decide on doing the mini-swap, I'm sure $195 is not going to be enough because you still need to buy gaskets, spark-plugs and spark-plug wires, water pump (might as well replace too). And you'd have to get lucky to find a good virgin ECU for only $30. And you should get that head inspected to make sure it isn't warped or anything because it isn't recommended to just bolt it on because that could lead to more problems.

As for the belts, you need to use a Y8 belt because its a different head and your Y7 headstuds should work fine.

 

IIRC a y8 head is taller than the y7 so you may need to match head studs with the head.....correct me if im wrong


ive always been told to match the studs with the head

 

yea i could the ecu for 30 for sure,so i have to get y8 stud,y8 timing belt,y8 head gasket, i got new y7 denso spark plug just laying around in my room.

my water pump is less than a year old also my time belt.

what you mean match the stud and head?

what about the knock sensor?? should they already and a place i could put on the back of the block with out drilling and taping?


Modified by immajackuup at 8:45 PM 6/21/2008

 

studs are the same length and the timing belt is the same. i have recently done the swap on my 96 cx hatch.it went pretty smooth besides the IACV (idle air controll valve), you need to get the 2 wire plug for it and wire it in and do the ecu pinout fix, as far as the knock sensor you can fake it by using a 2 dollar part from radio shack and wire it in. im willing to help you with whatever questions you have on this while it is still fresh in my mind. the vtec is easy to wire up. 30 bucks for a p2p ecu is dirt cheap, found mine on craigslist for 60 and that was a steal. you can use the p2e ecu until you find a p2p just un plug the IACV and not wire in the vtec. the vtec function is nice to have but its nothing that major the y7 tranny sucks for gearing. any questions let me know!

 

what ive learned from doing some head swaps is that youve got to match the head studs with the head you are using, so say you throw a b16a2 head on a b18b1 block, you need to use head studs from the b16, b/c the b16 head is taller, ive only done head swaps on b series, so d series motors the head studs may be the same

 

if your looking to add some power, do an ls swap, and later on do ls/vtec, ls swaps are dirt cheap these days, just my $.02

 

nah i just want to keep my d series motor.