Going to be ordering these parts in a few days. Making sure I have everything. Here is the list:

D16Y8 head complete(vtec and dist) $150 (doing rebuild w/ 3 angle valve job)
D16y8 ecu A31,A32,A33? $75.00
ARP headstuds ARP 208-4305 $105.39
Head gasket 18140 $22.78
Timing belt 18203 $30.15
Exh gasket 19804 $8.98
Header nut 6323 $.12 x9
Header stud 18147 $1.58 x9
Felpro valve seal kit SS70283-1 $29.99
Y8 fuel injectors (240cc)

Optional:
Walbro 255 Fuel pump $90.00
B&M Fuel pressure regualtor BMM-46059 $51.95
ARP connecting rod bolts: ARP 208-6001 $36.95

Already installed: Y8 intake manifold, Y8 exh manifold, Y8 fuel rail

Suggestions? Seeing anything missing as in key compnents. I was thinking of dropping the oil pan and taking off the end caps and checking out the bearing and possibly repalce them real quick. Not trying to get into piston/rod swap. At the most, maybe some rod bolts and some new bearings.

I plan on spending around $800-$900 on the head swap. Hoping to see a 20-30hp increase in the head swap. Y7 bottom end w/ 154k 97 civic dx


Modified by krkline2gdsm at 5:19 PM 6/20/2008

 

Nope looks like you've got it all listed my friend... You could have installed a new Intake Manifold Gasket as well considering you're at 154k miles, but taking into consideration that yours was good you should be all set... Checking out the bearings is more like a "replacing the bearings" job if you ask me... No sense in doing all that work "even though its minimal" and not replacing them, also remembering how many miles you have... In other words, i'd replace'm...

 

Maybe I will replace bearings... we will see. I am using one of those re-usable heat barrier intake manifold gaskets (hondata gasket?).

I have a stock 14b turbo, 1g dsm BOV, 450cc injectors, etc all laying around from my galant so they will be going on one day.. maybe next year when I care.

What about a block gaurd? I was told its not needed. Was just going to run a 14b around at say 5-7psi.


Modified by krkline2gdsm at 5:44 PM 6/20/2008

 

Block guard lol, no way dude... I was running a T3/T4'd D15B on 10psi and had no reason for a block guard so I'm pretty positive your DEFINITELY in the clear on that one lol.. Plus if u start having overheating issues its a P.I.T.A. to take those things out sometimes...