Extra 60 HP?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 12
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From: Spring Lake, NC, UNITED STATES
I have a stock 1996 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder NON VTEC. It is a daily driver and runs perfectly (I had a slight ticking and had a valve job done and it is gone). I occasionally use the car to tow my motorcycle. The car does well but I do want mild HP gains. I believe the car has roughly 118 HP (F18A, i think). I want to know the most reliable way to get an additional 60+ HP from the car. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 12
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From: Spring Lake, NC, UNITED STATES
will that adding a turbo require other modifications, ie chain reaction? How much of an increase can I expect from a the intake/ header/ exhaust route? Computer Chip?
Maybe I should say what do you suggest I do with $1500 to improve things for now?
I know I'm a Noob... thanks.
Maybe I should say what do you suggest I do with $1500 to improve things for now?
I know I'm a Noob... thanks.
:looks at checklist for going fast:
1. NITROUS !!!!!! and LOTS OF IT !!!!!!
The best thing about nitrous is that it doesnt constantly beat on your motor like a FI set up.
If it was me, id keep the bike for speed, and make the accord all show no go.
1. NITROUS !!!!!! and LOTS OF IT !!!!!!
The best thing about nitrous is that it doesnt constantly beat on your motor like a FI set up.
If it was me, id keep the bike for speed, and make the accord all show no go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NeKe1point0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">:looks at checklist for going fast:
1. NITROUS !!!!!! and LOTS OF IT !!!!!!
The best thing about nitrous is that it doesnt constantly beat on your motor like a FI set up.
If it was me, id keep the bike for speed, and make the accord all show no go. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah..... until you run out of it?
I think he wasn't going for a 1 time sprint of speed but more power all the time?
Do some searching spenc. Namely the Forced Induction thread down the page
1. NITROUS !!!!!! and LOTS OF IT !!!!!!
The best thing about nitrous is that it doesnt constantly beat on your motor like a FI set up.
If it was me, id keep the bike for speed, and make the accord all show no go. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah..... until you run out of it?
I think he wasn't going for a 1 time sprint of speed but more power all the time?
Do some searching spenc. Namely the Forced Induction thread down the page
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 12
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From: Spring Lake, NC, UNITED STATES
I use the bike for go. But I just want the car to have a little more ommf for when it is pulling the bike. While driving I constantly think about how the car wasn't made for towing but really can't afford another tow vehicle plus I already have the hidden hitch installed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spenc618 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use the bike for go. But I just want the car to have a little more ommf for when it is pulling the bike. While driving I constantly think about how the car wasn't made for towing but really can't afford another tow vehicle plus I already have the hidden hitch installed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, id say your at a dead end here.
I have the same motor as you but i boosted mine last year. I couldnt imagine pulling anything with it ! (way to torquey)
Id say save that 1500.00 for gas, or extend/chrome/lower the bike.
Honestly, id say your at a dead end here.
I have the same motor as you but i boosted mine last year. I couldnt imagine pulling anything with it ! (way to torquey)
Id say save that 1500.00 for gas, or extend/chrome/lower the bike.
u have the f22b2 engine. to get a good amount of power back, u could get a newer f22b2, with low miles. This will restore some of the power loss from over the years. That will cost u around $550+/- shipped to your door.
Keep in mind that the engine is only 130HP, and thats to the crank. Meaning that only about 115 of that power is getting to the ground.
The best way to get 60+HP would be a turbo, which is gonna need some garage time, and will cost a lot more then getting a newer f22b2 engine.
Keep in mind that the engine is only 130HP, and thats to the crank. Meaning that only about 115 of that power is getting to the ground.
The best way to get 60+HP would be a turbo, which is gonna need some garage time, and will cost a lot more then getting a newer f22b2 engine.
It would take a set of cams and a hell of a head to pull that off. Maybe even bore and stroke.
I'd have to go with Turbo on this one. It would be the easiest install in my opinion and it has little to no parasitic loss.
Normally I'd just suggest gears but I don't know how easy it is to alter the final drive ratio in these little cars.
I'd have to go with Turbo on this one. It would be the easiest install in my opinion and it has little to no parasitic loss.
Normally I'd just suggest gears but I don't know how easy it is to alter the final drive ratio in these little cars.
well h22 swap on accord is really ezzzzzzz 200hp 156 torq hehe, engine is about 1400 shipped to ur door and u dont really need much part cause u can use most of ur accord parts, h22 is stock in euro accords, so thikn about that, and do some research, that will be ur best bet imo, turbo is nice but if u dont have experience it can turn into disaster, and u probably will spend more on turbo then h22 swap in a accord
I'm surprised more people did recommend buying something that was built for towing a trailer.
I always laugh when I see an Accord pulling a trailer, because it's usually bottoming out the rear springs, with tires scraping the fender wells. : headshake : I guess a bike trailer isn't that bad, but I'd still point and laugh as effortlessly and fuel efficiently pass you by.
Take your $1500, sell your accord, and buy a small V6 SUV if your bike is that much of a trailer queen.
I always laugh when I see an Accord pulling a trailer, because it's usually bottoming out the rear springs, with tires scraping the fender wells. : headshake : I guess a bike trailer isn't that bad, but I'd still point and laugh as effortlessly and fuel efficiently pass you by.
Take your $1500, sell your accord, and buy a small V6 SUV if your bike is that much of a trailer queen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take your $1500, sell your accord, and buy a small V6 SUV if your bike is that much of a trailer queen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^
If you really want to stick with the accord, an H22 swap will definitely make towing alot easier.
Is your car auto or manual?
^^
If you really want to stick with the accord, an H22 swap will definitely make towing alot easier.
Is your car auto or manual?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 12
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From: Spring Lake, NC, UNITED STATES
My car is a manual. I want to stick with using it for towing for now. My "trailer Queen" is a 300 lbs track bike, not street legal. Since I have seen women who weigh more than my bike riding in Honda's, I think with a few good horses it will make up for it and my small trailer. Only in the mountains is 5 gear out of the question. Choosing between a good 4 cylinder car perfect for work 5 days a week and an SUV that I only need once a month (max) makes the option of trading for a V6 SUV seem ridiculous. Sorry not a rich kid so the luxury of a SUV driveway queen is not in the near future. I think the H22 swap is in the future. Now a reputable place to buy and install near NC.
The guy has a budget of $1500, so I say the H22 option is out.
H23 is a way that could go, thats 160hp/161tq alot cheaper. Prob only $1000 after it all.
OR, I recommend getting some high compression pistons and cams.
Bisimoto makes some high compression pistons that bump up displacement to 2207cc and compression to 12.0:1. They're designed for the F22A but should wield the same results. Only $480 shipped so after install I say maybe bout $750 That should wield about 20-25hp or more. He also has a stage 2 cam that gives you about a 20hp increase for only $230 shipped. You have to send him a core exchange so buy one off the forums here for like $10 and send it off. After install that should cost a total of about $450. And finally, I recommend some pulsestar pulse plugs. They are a new type of spark plug that burns more efficiently in the combustion chamber, giving you more tq and mpg. They are $100 a set. Expect a 4%-12% gain. This build should give you around 40-75 hp gain if my math is right. I could be wrong. So if I am then please somebody correct me.
H23 is a way that could go, thats 160hp/161tq alot cheaper. Prob only $1000 after it all.
OR, I recommend getting some high compression pistons and cams.
Bisimoto makes some high compression pistons that bump up displacement to 2207cc and compression to 12.0:1. They're designed for the F22A but should wield the same results. Only $480 shipped so after install I say maybe bout $750 That should wield about 20-25hp or more. He also has a stage 2 cam that gives you about a 20hp increase for only $230 shipped. You have to send him a core exchange so buy one off the forums here for like $10 and send it off. After install that should cost a total of about $450. And finally, I recommend some pulsestar pulse plugs. They are a new type of spark plug that burns more efficiently in the combustion chamber, giving you more tq and mpg. They are $100 a set. Expect a 4%-12% gain. This build should give you around 40-75 hp gain if my math is right. I could be wrong. So if I am then please somebody correct me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spenc618 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the H22 swap is in the future. Now a reputable place to buy and install near NC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CB7King »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guy has a budget of $1500, so I say the H22 option is out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CB7King »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guy has a budget of $1500, so I say the H22 option is out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i say turbo. go to the junkyard and look for the older eclipse, u can use the manifold, turbo, pretty much eveything. all bolt on. then buy some oil lines and find someone to install it for u, find a good tunner and tune that **** up and there u go, f22 r solid motors. im guessing 1500 for everything, depends on the tunner though. GL
I say go with an h22... if you're lucky you can find a 97-01 prelude at a junk yard cheap. I found a rolled 99 prelude for $900.. I got the seats and everything... it was an automatic but f series trannys bolt right up to h series motors... which is kool...( found a h series tranny and gotta exedy stage2 clutch finally.. side note) but I got all of that plus seats for only $900. I swapped that beach in (had only 68k miles on it) and it's quite a difference... just keep your eyes pealed...
but I suggest looking into getting an h22.. my car is a DD and it runs and drives great... it wasnt too hard to put it... it was quite easy... just if you get a 97-01 prelude you're gonna need a jdm ecu because usdm ecu's those years have immobilizers.
hope that helped sum....
but I suggest looking into getting an h22.. my car is a DD and it runs and drives great... it wasnt too hard to put it... it was quite easy... just if you get a 97-01 prelude you're gonna need a jdm ecu because usdm ecu's those years have immobilizers.
hope that helped sum....
i purchased my h22 from tiger japenese for 913 shipped. that was the long block only. it will bolt up directly to your current transmission as well. however i had to purchase the computer and a v-tec harness from rywire. so that is the route that i have chosen. although i have come across a turbo kit a while back that a fella was sellin that put a fair amount of power down with 6-8psi. something like 190ish hp and 270ish trq. that is what he claimed anyway.



